On 11/9/2015 12:59 AM, rickman wrote:
On 11/8/2015 10:46 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 19:12:38 -0500, rickman wrote:

On 11/8/2015 5:14 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
You were asking about using a better dielectric than air. I found
this article:
http://www.qrpbuilder.com/downloads/loop%20antenna%20110310.pdf
which includes construction details for a piston capacitor arrangement
using various dielectrics. On Pg 8 is a chart of various plastics,
with dielectric constant, dielectric strength, and dissipation factor.
For cheap, the author recommends UHMW (polypropylene), which is one
tenth the cost of PTFE (Teflon).

Yeah, but he doesn't address the issue of temperature dependance of Er.
I don't even see it in his table.

True, but I don't think tempco is critical or required. A practical
loop antenna, with sufficiently high Q and narrow bandwidth, will
require an automatic tuning arrangement. I managed to built one where
the operating bandwidth on 80 meters was less than the occupied
bandwidth of a SSB signal. With that critical a frequency tuning,
manual or fixed tuning isn't going to work. Once you have an
automatic tuner, compensating for thermal drift is easy.

I'm not familiar with automatic tuners that can tune the antenna while
in use. One of the issues someone pointed out was that the dielectric
can heat up from the energy absorbed during transmission. Is an antenna
tuner real time in this case?

I crunched some numbers and found 100's of PPM change in tuned frequency
due to ambient temperature change over the course of a year for an
antenna with an air or vacuum tuning capacitor. I can find ceramic
dielectrics that would be lower than this and even in the opposite
direction to offset the natural drift. But I can't find this info for PEX.


Incidentally, one of the problems I'm fighting is that the loop tuning
is different between TX and RX because the impedance of the receiver
and transmitter are slightly different and enought to detune the loop.
That's another problem that an automagic tuner should fix.

The text says he used PEX (cross linked polyethylene) for the capacitor,
but I can't find much info on the electrical characteristics. The one
that is hardest to find is the temperature dependence of Er. I don't
see PEX in his table at all. Very odd.

I use PEX plumbing pipe for coil forms, spacers, standoffs, and
spreaders. Works well, but seems a bit expensive. This might help:
http://www.smeter.net/daily-facts/11/fact21.php
Er = 2.3 and 60-90 kV/mm

I'm not terribly concerned with the actual value of Er and even the
dielectric strength. What is important to me is the temperature
coefficient of Er.


Here's something on building a trombone capacitor:
http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php?topic=70784.0;wap2
Er = 2.25

Interesting, but nearly every discussion I find on loop antennas has a
lot of fluff content. Here is some from this discussion, "By the way
PEX is cross linked polyethylene and is superior to using sheet Teflon
in this instance." Unless the reason is stated for considering PEX
superior to Teflon, I haven't learned anything. I'm certainly not going
to take an anonymous person's word for it.


This looks a bit more authoritative:
http://www.comfortprosystems.com/sites/comfortprosystems.com/files/cps_aquaheat_pex_pressdrop_tec-04.pdf

Er = 2.3

The info on PEX that I can find on the web indicates it may have
problems with use outdoors, but maybe this antenna isn't intended to be
used outdoors.

Just about everything plastic has problems with UV embrittlement. The
best fix I've found is Krylon clear acrylic spray.
http://yarchive.net/electr/plastic_uv_resistances.html
Hint: Search Yarchive and Google for posting by Dr Barry L. Ornitz
WA4VZQ. Lots of really good info on materials, chemicals, processes,
and antennas.

I'm talking about water impacts. Humidity and rain soak into materials.
Some by absorption, others by infiltration into micro-cracks. I saw
some materials that talked about water trees in PEX. This is not a
universal problem in all plastics.


Incidentally, if you dive into the Yahoo magloop files sections, there
are some photos of the insides of the MFJ-1786 mag loop.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-1786
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MagLoop/files/MFJ-1786/MFJ-1786%20coupling%20loop/

Two things worthy of notice. All the aluminum parts are brazed or
welded together and the matching(?) coil inside the box appears to be
silver plated. If MFJ's reputation for cheap construction is to be
believed, they would not silver plate anything if a cheaper
alternative would work.

I can't get to the MagLoop files. I don't know anything about MFJ's
reputation. There are simple facts about silver that make it only very
slightly better than copper for RF circuits. I know that you can
increase the size of the conductor by less than 5% as an alternative to
using silver plating if the electrical characteristics are the goal. Can
you explain why silver is required? The numbers don't show it.

The silver is simply optimization. If you can make your coil wire 5%
bigger, you should have already done that. Then if you want to optimized
1 + 0.05, silver plate it.
Mikek