On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:02:51 -0000, "Brian Reay"
wrote:

"Part P" doesn't stop DIY electrical work but such work MAY need to be
inspected. In fact, some level of inspection has always been imposed- the
electricity supply company does a check before connecting the "meter tails".

I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who
either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them, but
it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-)

Yes, I take your point.

Do you remember the chappie on uk.radio.amateur who recommended an
earth connection to the yellow plastic water main ;-)?

I'm sure this sort of thing is done to protect the next occupiers of
his house.
--
from
Aero Spike

"Spike" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:02:51 -0000, "Brian Reay"
wrote:

"Part P" doesn't stop DIY electrical work but such work MAY need to be
inspected. In fact, some level of inspection has always been imposed- the
electricity supply company does a check before connecting the "meter
tails".

I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who
either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them,
but
it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-)

Yes, I take your point.

Do you remember the chappie on uk.radio.amateur who recommended an
earth connection to the yellow plastic water main ;-)?


Do they use yellow in Wiltshire then? In Kent water is blue and gas yellow.


I'm sure this sort of thing is done to protect the next occupiers of
his house.

When the company fails, that may not be far away.

--
Brian Reay
www.g8osn.org.uk
www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk
FP#898

On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:25:42 -0000, "Airy R. Bean"
wrote:

Then more fool you.....

You certainly make yourself out as stupid and as ignorant enough.

I like the demonstration of the gentlemanly approach.....
--
from
Aero Spike

Airy R. Bean wrote:
ISTR that the person who introduced the concept of
polarised resistors was you.

Yet again you make the Freudian Slip of uttering a rather
silly sneer that actually applies to yourself.

SFB, or what?!

"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...

I admit to mix views on Part P, unnecessary red tape for those of us who
either know the correct way to do things, or are prepared to learn them,

but

it is protection from those who believe in polarised resistors ;-)


No it was definitely YOU who said something like - M3/CB blah blah
"wouldn't know one end of a resistor from the other".

I don't know how to search for old messages but I'm sure someone can
find it for you.

Cheers,

Micky


--
E&OE (C) 2005 Micky Taker
Micky Taker accepts no responsibility for any personal injury or
emotional distress that may occur as a result of reading the contents of
this message.

s'OK - the spikeful Old Mother-Hen Nugatory RVMJ-Binaryera,
which is the true identity of the person to whom you responded,
doesn't know anything technical, never contributes anything of value,
and only ever sneers in a rather silly paranoid way.

Bad luck, Jack! You fell into her trap!

"Jack Painter" wrote in message
news:VqeEd.11987$B95.4079@lakeread02...
"Spike" wrote
2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering
iron won't be up to the job ...).
Use a car battery clamp and plenty of grease.
Never, ever use "Grease" (or any other lubricant/protectant) in an
electrical connection for RF. Grease is a dialectric (so is silicone) and
it
will ensure you have practically no electrical connection at all.
There are copper and other metal-alloy pastes available for making
mechanical lightning protection and RF connections. They are the only
thing
that should ever be used to make up mechanical joints. If you don't have
them, make the joints dry and leave them that way. Copper oxide (normally
green) that forms outside of bare copper from oxidation is conductive and
causes very little difference in conductivity. Aluminum oxides and carbon
steel rust are not very conductive, although not much different than poor
soil that most radials are buried in.

"Spike" wrote
2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering
iron won't be up to the job ...).

Use a car battery clamp and plenty of grease.

Never, ever use "Grease" (or any other lubricant/protectant) in an
electrical connection for RF. Grease is a dialectric (so is silicone) and it
will ensure you have practically no electrical connection at all.

There are copper and other metal-alloy pastes available for making
mechanical lightning protection and RF connections. They are the only thing
that should ever be used to make up mechanical joints. If you don't have
them, make the joints dry and leave them that way. Copper oxide (normally
green) that forms outside of bare copper from oxidation is conductive and
causes very little difference in conductivity. Aluminum oxides and carbon
steel rust are not very conductive, although not much different than poor
soil that most radials are buried in.

Jack Painter
Virginia Beach, Virginia

"Jack Painter" wrote in message
news:VqeEd.11987$B95.4079@lakeread02...

"Spike" wrote
2. How do I bond the radials together? (I guess my 15-watt soldering
iron won't be up to the job ...).

Use a car battery clamp and plenty of grease.

Never, ever use "Grease" (or any other lubricant/protectant) in an
electrical connection for RF. Grease is a dialectric (so is silicone) and
it
will ensure you have practically no electrical connection at all.


If there is a conductive path before the grease is applied does it matter?

--
Brian Reay
www.g8osn.org.uk
www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk
FP#898

Brian Reay wrote:
If there is a conductive path before the grease is applied does it matter?

Back in the 50's, it was common practice to smear grease on
automobile battery terminals to keep them from corroding.
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp


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"Cecil Moore" wrote in message
...
Brian Reay wrote:
If there is a conductive path before the grease is applied does it
matter?

Back in the 50's, it was common practice to smear grease on
automobile battery terminals to keep them from corroding.

Still is in the UK. Also I assume in the USA, one of my cars was made in the
USA and came with grease on the terminals.

--
Brian Reay
www.g8osn.org.uk
www.amateurradiotraining.org.uk
FP#898

Airy R. Bean wrote:
"Ian White, G3SEK" wrote in message
...
Zero inches, if you can. Cut the grass very short in a few weeks' time,
and staple the radials down. This part of the question was discussed
here, only a week ago.

Staples? Presumably fashion from short lengths of
fencing wire, or similar?

You've got the idea.

The original reference to the thread was:
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...na/browse_frm/
thread/67f88578a6f58a9a/1191189b9db0a400?q=staple+radial+group:rec.radio.
amateur.antenna&_done=%2Fgroups%3Fas_q%3Dstaple+ra dial%26safe%3Dimages%26
as_ugroup%3Drec.radio.amateur.antenna%26as_drrb%3D b%26as_mind%3D25%26as_m
inm%3D12%26as_miny%3D2004%26as_maxd%3D9%26as_maxm% 3D1%26as_maxy%3D2005%26
lr%3D%26hl%3Den%26&_doneTitle=Back+to+Search&&d#11 91189b9db0a400

Or alternatively:
http://tinyurl.com/4dnhg

(Tinyurl.com really is the best thing since.... well, since Google
Newsgroups Search, I suppose.)


--
73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek