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![]() Just about any inductor will withstand the power level, so your tradeoffs are among size, weight, expense, weather resistance, and loss. The higher the inductor Q, the lower the loss. But to get the maximum Q you need a large, air wound inductor that stays dry -- any water between turns of any kind of inductor will spoil the Q. I've made an antenna similar to the one you describe (but half the size, for 40 meters) with reasonably low loss using two large powdered iron cores for loading at the feedpoint. It was conveniently matched by link coupling to the cores which of course you won't be able to do if the loads are away from the feedpoint. If you can tolerate the size and/or weight, the use of multiple conductors -- fanned or parallel --, or (not as good) a single large diameter conductor will reduce the loss two ways. First, it reduces the conductor's I^2*R loss which can become noticeable in a short antenna. Second, it reduces the amount of inductance you need and therefore for a given Q reduces the amount of inductor loss. I think you'll have trouble getting reasonable Q and therefore reasonably low loss from a small, multilayer air wound coil. You're best off with a single layer air core solenoid or, not quite as good but decent if done with care, a single layer winding on a large type 2 or 6 powdered iron core. Just remember to protect the inductors to keep water from between the turns. Also, remember that just beyond the inductors the impedance is pretty high, so keep the part of the antenna beyond the inductors, in particular, away from leaves, branches, and the like, especially if they're wet. Thanks, Roy. Since my antenna will be very portable, with a collapsable fibreglass mast I can't take much weight, ergo, the need for small wire, and light weight inductors. However, it appears I would be better off with feedpoint inductors instead of putting them halfway out the legs of the dipole. I will plan on doing that, and will look into using iron core inductors instead of air wound.... if I can keep it light enough. (the mast sags under any appreciable weight). Thanks again. Ed K7AAT |
#2
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However, it appears I would be
better off with feedpoint inductors instead of putting them halfway out the legs of the dipole. Myself, I would prefer them out at 1/2 or even 2/3 from the center. Better current distribution. What will the antenna be made from? Wire, or metal tubing? Regular solenoid coils can be made from any light plastic tube, using light wire. I use insulated wire to act as a spacer. I then cover them with shrink wrap, or tape. If the antenna is hard to match to coax, you can use a third coil at the feedpoint, and tap it for the best match. If the antenna was tubing, I would use wooden dowel that would fit in between a section of metal tubing, and wind the coils on those. I'd weatherproof those some way also. When I make small loaded dipoles, I think exactly the same way as I would designing a mobile whip. I'd make the most efficient design of a 24 ft whip, IE: coil placement, etc, and just double it for a dipole. Whats best for a short whip, will also be best for a short dipole of the same size per leg. The very best location is probably at the 2/3 to 3/4 mark, but it's not that critical. Even 1/2 out is good. Reg's vertload can model all that, and tell you the best place, coil info, etc, etc... In comparing to the real world, it's close nuff for gov work. If the apex was high, even a center load could be ok, but if you only have 5 watts, I would go for every last scrap of efficiency in the design. Actually, I'd also carry a spare 120 ft of wire to use as a full size dipole in the off chance the location could support it. :/ Many would, if they have trees to hang wires from, etc.. Even if the full dipole is perverted, and making turns, a "Z",etc, it will usually outdo the loaded antenna for 75m. MK |
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