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#1
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My vertical blew down!!!
I had put up a 1/4 wavelength 20m vertical with 1/8 wavelength
radials elevated at 7 feet, with rope guys... and the wind blew it apart like so much tin foil! It decided to blow it down so you could rebuild it with the proper length radials... 1/8 radials won't work too well. Why would you use those? They are fairly useless on an elevated ground plane. The decoupling of the feedline will be poor, and probably lots of rf in the shack. Needs 1/4 wave radials to work correctly. As far as the wind, you need to build a little stouter... Normally, a short 16 ft radiator should be easy to keep up, even with 60 mph winds. Shouldn't fall down if it was guyed. My 40 m ground plane was 32 ft tall, mounted at 36 ft. Nearly 70 ft tall at the top. Only my mast was guyed. No guys were used on the radiator. I used a telescoping metal mast which shrunk down to a very thin size as it neared the top. Was quite flexible. In heavy storms, it would nearly blow sideways, but it never hurt it, and it always popped back up straight after the wind left. That particular antenna cost nothing..Made from an old butchered up 5/8 wave CB antenna as the base radiator, and then extended with extra tubing. Was looking at your 2nd post, and notice the details. Not exactly the recipe for a solid antenna...You would be better off using an old butchered CB antenna, etc. The cushcraft AR-10 makes a good platform for verticals also. It's a 16-18 ft 1/2 wave antenna for 10m. If you use only the radiator, and redesign the feed, thats a decent quicky 20m 1/4 wave vertical. The old heavy duty 5/8 CB antennas are good to use also. They have heavy duty bases that are often reinforced. Thats what I use for my tall 40m antenna, and never had a problem, but I did strengthen by adding extra tubing , inside the tubing. IE: double wall... Copper is pretty soft, and shouldn't be used for anything that needs real strength. MK |
#3
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My vertical blew down!!!
Actually, pure aluminium is even softer and far more ductile than
copper and is useless as a construction material. But some grades of copper/aluminium alloy, known in the UK as Duraluminum or just Dural, have properties approaching carbon steel and are corrosion resistant. Light in weight. Easily machined and extruded. Maintain a good appearance. High electrical conductivity. More expensive than steel. They are used, for example, for ladders and scaffold poles. When used for tubular rigid dipoles and antenna masts they collapse under high winds only because the wall thickness is too thin. Commonly used for radio chassis and sheet metal roofs. But NOT pure aluminium, just a few percent of copper. ---- Reg. "Cecil Moore" wrote in message . com... wrote: It seems that my location boasts 60 to 110 mph winds on a regular basis. I had put up a 1/4 wavelength 20m vertical with 1/8 wavelength radials elevated at 7 feet, with rope guys... and the wind blew it apart like so much tin foil! I use 2x(2"x4"s) fastened together for a 4"x4" support and 1/4WL wire radials as ground-plane/guy-wires. The vertical section is assembled from 6' telescoping aluminum sections following the beam element design guidelines in the ARRL Antenna Book. The top 8.5' is a stainless steel CB whip. It has withstood wind gusts of about 100 mph. As others have said, copper is a poor choice for a 20m vertical. -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp |
#4
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My vertical blew down!!!
Reg Edwards wrote:
But NOT pure aluminium, just a few percent of copper. Next time I'll have to remember what a purist you are, Reg. I'll specify Aluminum 6063-T832 or some such. -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp |
#5
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My vertical blew down!!!
Visit a farm supply house and see what they have for aluminum tubing...the
stuff they use for making racks for trucks and pickups. wrote in message oups.com... Hi, It seems that my location boasts 60 to 110 mph winds on a regular basis. I had put up a 1/4 wavelength 20m vertical with 1/8 wavelength radials elevated at 7 feet, with rope guys... and the wind blew it apart like so much tin foil! Does anyone know of a decent commercial design for less than $1000 for a free standing 30 to 40 foot support that can take this darn wind??? Thanks, The Eternal Squire |
#6
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My vertical blew down!!!
Try these guys http://www.valcom.ca/welcome.html they make antennas for
coastal coast guard shore stations and military ship antennas I had one of the 74 foot shore/vessal antennas it was a 74 feet high with a capasative cap and worked like a hot dam. Mind you I got mine free for the taking at a Canadian Coast Guard station that had replaced the antennas with something bigger. The Valcombs are used on board ships all over the world and on shore, I got mine where the wind was blowing on average about the same as what you have 90% of the time, a typical shore station locations. The one I had up weighed 700 lbs and required approx. 6 yard of cement and it never even as much as moved when the wind blew. Sold mine to an amateur in SD aka tornado alley and last I heard he lost his barn but the antenna surived without even as much as a scratch. Oh by the way it has a really low angle of radiation and worked fantastic for DX, best antenna I've ever used, next to a rombic on the Artic Circle, aka DEW LINE. 73...de ve7agw Al wrote in message oups.com... Hi, It seems that my location boasts 60 to 110 mph winds on a regular basis. I had put up a 1/4 wavelength 20m vertical with 1/8 wavelength radials elevated at 7 feet, with rope guys... and the wind blew it apart like so much tin foil! Does anyone know of a decent commercial design for less than $1000 for a free standing 30 to 40 foot support that can take this darn wind??? Thanks, The Eternal Squire |
#7
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My vertical blew down!!!
All,
Thanks so much for getting back on this... I am located about 50 miles west of Gallup, NM. I am in a trailer park so I do not have a very large lot. Also while my super is a nice person, amything large enough to seriously ding a trailer if it fell would not be not okay with him. My wife also wants to put a storage shed next to the trailer fairly well adjacent to where I mounted my first pipe into concrete. That limits my choices further. My YF is generous enough to allow me to keep trying with this antenna, but she is already concerned that I put $300 into it ($175 parts and concrete, $50 tools, $75 to hire someone who speaks propane torch) and thinks that I should leave the design and installation to a professional, hence my question about decent mounting for less than $1000. For purposes of discussion the dimension limits to be about 25 to 35 foot vertical, and about 8 foot radius for mounted radials. I am allowed to create ground counterpoises up to 40 feet long as long as they snake into the back lot. Severe sway is not allowed as it could spank the trailer. One thing I have noticed is that street lamps and telephone poles are unguyed but have no problem with this wind. Unfortunately, I am not close enough to either of them to use them for a mounting. (I cannot move, I am committed to staying. I got laid off by my company in mid-september and we moved to a place where my wife could use her new master's degree in education... and we have to stay in this trailer right next to her school as a condition of her employment... it is, fortunately, low rent forced housing). Questions: 1) Since I have an 8 foot limit for radials, could I have 1/4 wavelength helical radials for 40m that could fit into an 8 foot length? 1a) Could I do the same helical trick for the radiator as well? 2) My base 1 inch diameter galvanized pipe is presently 2 1/2 foot into a 2 1/2 foot cube concrete filled hole with 2 1/2 foot exposed. What could I screw in it that would not need guying, and would not bend nor sway in 100 mph wind, and how high could I make that? 3) If I run up a metal pipe to 20 foot and then an insulated wire from the dirt to the top alongside the pipe as my radiator, what effect will the pipe have on the radiating wire? Thanks again, The Eternal Squire |
#8
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My vertical blew down!!!
wrote: 3) If I run up a metal pipe to 20 foot and then an insulated wire from the dirt to the top alongside the pipe as my radiator, what effect will the pipe have on the radiating wire? *Install the pipe. *Build a 16-17 foot tapered radiator made from telescoping lengths of 6061-T6 aluminum tubing. See the Texas Towers site for the tubing. E-mail me about doing the design of the radiator, I'm equipped to do the FEA stress analysis. *Build an aluminum adapter plate to attach the radiator to the pipe. See any "how to" type ham antenna book which includes the construction of yagis. Use a pair of stainless steel u-bolts to attach the adapter plate to the pipe. Use a pair of insulated clamps to attach the radiator to the adapter plate. These are available from DXengineering. http://www.dxengineering.com/Section...&DeptID=21#Top *Run ONE 16-17 foot wire to the the adapter plate but do not ground it. Instead attach it the braid of the coax. Attach the radiator to the center conductor of the coax. Pull the "radial wire" as far away from the trailer as possible in some direction or another. This arrangement would give you a "sorta" inverted L or vertical dipole type antenna instead of a ground plane. Thanks again, The Eternal Squire w3rv |
#9
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My vertical blew down!!!
I have one problem... I can only get stuff from Home Depot, about 50
miles away. The Eternal Squire |
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