Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
We've all had experience with radios that refuse to work
properly. The latest one for me has been an HT-44 transmitter. Been driving me nuts. Finally discovered why. Hallicrappers decided to use steel rivets to attach the tube sockets and terminal strips to their aluminum chassis. To their credit, they did put star lock washers between the bodies of the sockets and the chassis, but over time, the rivets corroded and are giving a poor ground. Time to dig out the bus wire. I'm sure other manufacturers did the same thing. An issue thats worth keeping in mind when working on them. Steve |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
In rec.antiques.radio+phono Steve wrote:
We've all had experience with radios that refuse to work properly. The latest one for me has been an HT-44 transmitter. Been driving me nuts. Finally discovered why. Hallicrappers decided to use steel rivets to attach the tube sockets and terminal strips to their aluminum chassis. To their credit, they did put star lock washers between the bodies of the sockets and the chassis, but over time, the rivets corroded and are giving a poor ground. Time to dig out the bus wire. I'm sure other manufacturers did the same thing. An issue thats worth keeping in mind when working on them. Not only on radio's... I own an Alfa Romeo 33 car, with an all-aluminium boxer engine. Guess how bad the grounding of the alternator gets after some years? I sanded down all contact surfaces and placed such washers where possible. I should have added a jumper wire, but i didn't have the correct materials handy at the time. -- Met vriendelijke groet, Maarten Bakker. |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
This problem isn't restricted to aluminum chassis. ANY riveted ground
connection in an old radio is suspect. -- Mike Schultz "Steve" wrote in message ... We've all had experience with radios that refuse to work properly. The latest one for me has been an HT-44 transmitter. Been driving me nuts. Finally discovered why. Hallicrappers decided to use steel rivets to attach the tube sockets and terminal strips to their aluminum chassis. To their credit, they did put star lock washers between the bodies of the sockets and the chassis, but over time, the rivets corroded and are giving a poor ground. Time to dig out the bus wire. I'm sure other manufacturers did the same thing. An issue thats worth keeping in mind when working on them. Steve |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Mike Schultz wrote:
This problem isn't restricted to aluminum chassis. ANY riveted ground connection in an old radio is suspect. I used to use copper pop rivets with steel chassis. After the items were riveted, I used a 80 watt soldering iron to solder the inside end of the rivet to the metal socket or terminal strip, and the chassis. I NEVER had a grounding problem when i used this method. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Steel Chassis | Homebrew | |||
Steel no good for chassis? (Which metal is best for old regen designs?) | Homebrew | |||
Steel no good for chassis? (Which metal is best for old regen designs?) | Homebrew | |||
Still Looking for crankup/foldover steel or aluminum tower | Antenna | |||
Still Looking for crankup/foldover steel or aluminum tower | Swap |