I'll second that. Both my NC-183,183D, and various other vintage rigs
ran very hot at my nominal line voltage, here, of about 120-125 volts.
I now use a Variac in power distribution line for the older radios and
set it at 110v. The drop in temp of the transformers was dramatic....
There may, of course, be other problems like leaky caps, etc. so a
complete check may be necessary. de K3HVG

Thanks. I went and replaced the electrolytics. Replaced the 330 ohm 7w
with a 500ohm 25 watt. The 7 watt was swinging beyond 1K when hot. All
the other caps are mylars. The 12BE6 socket had a 6BE6 there. I dont
have a 12BE6, so I sent the 6V filament rail to that socket and will
run it with a good 6be6. Not the best remedy, but you know how it
is! Powered up and got some reception on the two lower bands, nothing
on the top three. My changes may have knocked the alignment way off,
so I'll realign and see if I can "wake it up", powering thru a variac
at 110. Any comments are appreciated.
Pete

The changes you have made should not knock the alignment off. I generally
like to fix the problems before alignment. Alignment is generally "gilding
the lilly".

It is not uncommon to acquire a radio that is off because of alignment.
But, even if that is the case, it often means that there was another
unsolved problem which precipitated alignment.

You can usually tell when an alignment has been attempted by someone not
qualified as they leave their calling cards on the adjustment points.

Once the basics are corrected, you can usually use a signal applied at
various stages to check stage amplification. If the radio is working on the
lower bands, that is a good start. Look for switch contacts, or high
frequency oscillator failure (I have had that with flat 6C4 tubes) or even
the mixer tube. Then, carefully check the alignment - being sure to follow
the alignment manual and always makr your starting point before any
adjustment.

The previous comments have been good.

Colin K7FM

K3HVG wrote:
I'll second that. Both my NC-183,183D, and various other vintage rigs
ran very hot at my nominal line voltage, here, of about 120-125 volts. I
now use a Variac in power distribution line for the older radios and set
it at 110v. The drop in temp of the transformers was dramatic....
There may, of course, be other problems like leaky caps, etc. so a
complete check may be necessary. de K3HVG


One trick you can use to achieve 110V from a 120V nominal power line is
to take a 12.6V filament transformer with a secondary current rating that is
greater than the current drawn by the load, and hook it up as a series
bucking auto transformer... The primary goes across the 120V power line,
and the secondary is in series between the power line, and the radio to
be powered. Pick the 12.6V secondary's polarity so that the voltage drops,
rather than raises. If 12.6V is too much of a drop for your situation, you
can always use a 6.3V transformer to get 115 to 117V.

Much cheaper than a variac.

-Chuck

"Chuck Harris" wrote in message
...
K3HVG wrote:
I'll second that. Both my NC-183,183D, and various other vintage rigs
ran very hot at my nominal line voltage, here, of about 120-125 volts. I
now use a Variac in power distribution line for the older radios and set
it at 110v. The drop in temp of the transformers was dramatic.... There
may, of course, be other problems like leaky caps, etc. so a complete
check may be necessary. de K3HVG


One trick you can use to achieve 110V from a 120V nominal power line is
to take a 12.6V filament transformer with a secondary current rating that
is
greater than the current drawn by the load, and hook it up as a series
bucking auto transformer... The primary goes across the 120V power line,
and the secondary is in series between the power line, and the radio to
be powered. Pick the 12.6V secondary's polarity so that the voltage
drops,
rather than raises. If 12.6V is too much of a drop for your situation,
you
can always use a 6.3V transformer to get 115 to 117V.

Much cheaper than a variac.

-Chuck

Another trick that works well on smaller transformer-powered
receivers is adding wire wound power resistor in series with
the transformer primary winding. I use Dale chassis-mount
30-ohm resistors (the style with tabbed aluminum shells)
for a lot of early Zenith restorations.. Often the filament
voltages are pushing 7 volts, and the transformers running so
hot you can't touch them--and that's after replacing all caps.

Pete k1zjh