In article ,
notbob wrote:

I'm also looking for a GOOD straight key.

I want to invest in quality, but am not wealthy. I was gonna buy a
Vibroplex Know Code key, but the reviews are less than heartening.
So, I talked to Al at Milestone Technologies and he said something that
kinda set me back on my heels. He claimed a straight key is not much
good for anything over 15 wpm. Yikes!

NB-

My favorite straight key is a WWII surplus J-38, mounted on a more
stable base.

The Model J-37 is the same key without a shorting switch. This may be a
better choice, because an accidentally shorted key can be a pain to
troubleshoot!

When I took my Extra code test at an FCC office, there was only a
straight key available for sending 20 WPM. If it is adjusted for the
right amount of "bounce", you should be able to manage 20 or 25 WPM.

I waited until I had the Extra class license, before trying any kind of
keyer. The one I have was built from a QST article, "The WB4VVF
Accukeyer". It was fun to build and works with an "iambic" paddle.

The Accukeyer is somewhat less tiring to use than a straight key when
sending at higher speeds. I prefer it to the keyers built into many
modern transceivers, because of its automatic character spacing feature.
It takes a bit of coordination to use!

Fred
K4DII

On Apr 2, 4:21�pm, Fred McKenzie wrote:

My favorite straight key is a WWII
surplus J-38, mounted on a more
stable base.

The Model J-37 is the same key without
a shorting switch. �

They're similar, but not the same key. Both are good choices IMHO.

Here are links to pictures so you can recognize them:

J-37 (sometimes called "J-41" when mounted on its knee-clamp base):

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2257/...a553a9acf4.jpg


J-38:

http://www.hamradiocenter.biz/photos/preowned/j-38.jpg


Note that the J-37 has a plastic base and painted-steel lever, while
the J-38 is almost all metal.

----

Morse Code lo The shorting switch on keys was not originally
intended as a tune-up aid.

In the wire-telegraph days, many line circuits were left normally
closed when not in use. That way, any break in the line would be
detected. The shorting switch was used to close the line when *not*
sending.

In radio use, it could be used for tuneup, of course. Also, when a
ship was in grave distress and the radio operator was abandoning ship,
the shorting switch would be closed so that the transmitter would stay
on the air as long as possible.

73 de Jim, N2EY

In article
,
N2EY wrote:

The Model J-37 is the same key without
a shorting switch. ?

They're similar, but not the same key.

Jim-

These keys were provided by several different makers. If you find a
J-37 and a J-38 made by same company, there is a chance they are
identical except the switch-related hardware is missing from the J-37.

That may not be true for all makers, but it was in one case I'm familiar
with. It appeared that the switch hardware could be transferred from
the J-38 to the J-37 without any modifications.

Fred
K4DII

In article ,
Fred McKenzie wrote:

It appeared that the switch hardware could be transferred from
the J-38 to the J-37 without any modifications.

Jim-

My memory from the 1950s is a little dim. I can't find my original
J-38, but did find several other keys I've picked up over the years.

There is one J-38 like my original one from the 50s. There are two J-37
keys: one like you described and one like the J-38. One of the J-37s
is mounted on a knee-clamp!

The J-37 that is like the J-38, has the switch part attached to the hot
contact. However the place where the switch lever would bolt to the
base, is missing. I think this was the case I remembered from years
ago. Half of the switch is there, but there is no provision to attach
the lever.

NB-

As you asked in your original post, you need to find a key. Any key.
And get on the air! Your code speed will improve more rapidly when you
are forced to copy in a way you can't when listening to a recording.

It may not matter which style of key you get, as far as RSI is
concerned. You can operate either kind without resting your hand on the
desk.

One feature you may like is a Navy knob. The Navy knob has a round disk
under the knob. You can make one by drilling a hole in a poker chip,
and mounting it under the original knob.

Fred
K4DII