On Feb 1, 10:41*am, m II wrote:
On 11-02-01 11:22 AM, bpnjensen wrote:

Question - does the additional Poly tube around the coax diminish the
capacity to provide (presumably useful) inductive ground for the
buried cable?

Seems to me that anything resembling an inductive ground would be a bad
thing. The inductive coupling effect would vary completely with the
frequency of the signal, proximity, length, etc. Not good.

- Don't settle for anything less than a real,
- lowest possible impedance, honest to G_d,
- mechanically connected ground.
- I usually smear the wire connection and
- electrode with vaseline after having sandpapered them.
- Then do your clamping.
- A plastic cup inverted over the end of the
- ground rod will keep the rain out of the joint.
-
- mike

Conductive Grease "NO-OX-ID"
http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.htm...FRiAgwodThlG2g

CRC® Dielectric Grease
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1443552

On 02/01/2011 12:38 PM, bpnjensen wrote:


Well, that's not quite what I meant - I am sorry if I was unclear.

IIRC, there is nothing at all wrong with burying a cable, and in fact
it helps to keep the RFI away from the run, as well as keeping the
outer braid near the earthen ground and helping to bleed away currents
travelling along the braid. That is what I was asking about - whether
a poly tube would lessen this desirable effect.

I have every intention of grounding the 9:1 unun, presuming it will
enhance performance (if it does not, I'll disconnect it). If
necessary, I'll also install the RF Isolator and try it both grounded
and ungrounded.

I had never heard that it was necessary to keep a solid mechanical
ground water-free, although I guess I can see the value. I don't
understand what vaseline does - just protect against corrosion? I
doubt if it would help the electrical connection.
You're not supposed to use braid for grounds.

On 02/01/2011 12:47 PM, RHF wrote:
On Feb 1, 10:41 am, m wrote:
On 11-02-01 11:22 AM, bpnjensen wrote:

Question - does the additional Poly tube around the coax diminish the
capacity to provide (presumably useful) inductive ground for the
buried cable?

Seems to me that anything resembling an inductive ground would be a bad
thing. The inductive coupling effect would vary completely with the
frequency of the signal, proximity, length, etc. Not good.

- Don't settle for anything less than a real,
- lowest possible impedance, honest to G_d,
- mechanically connected ground.
- I usually smear the wire connection and
- electrode with vaseline after having sandpapered them.
- Then do your clamping.
- A plastic cup inverted over the end of the
- ground rod will keep the rain out of the joint.
-
- mike

Conductive Grease "NO-OX-ID"
http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.htm...FRiAgwodThlG2g

CRC® Dielectric Grease
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1443552
.
Heat Sink Compound {Zink Oxide}
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102858
* Rite Aid Zinc Oxide, Ointment
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009M8JK


even remembering using fluoride toothpaste
hey - what works... works ! - iane ~ RHF
.
.
You are freaking nuts.

On Feb 1, 8:28*am, dave wrote:
On 01/31/2011 11:09 PM, wrote:

On Feb 1, 1:48 am, *wrote:
...or like a new telescope eyepiece means cloudy weather :-D- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

aka as Murphy's Law !

No. Murphy's Law is based on actual physical law. What we describe above
is stupid coincidence. Murphy's Law states that the mechanism will
perform as designed and built and that it cannot do otherwise. It is a
very serious thing.

I suggest you ask any Irishman/woman ! They WILL tell you ...

On 02/01/2011 06:53 PM, m II wrote:
On 11-02-01 05:46 PM, dave wrote:


I haven't used petroleum jelly since WD-40 started showing up in spray
cans. The point is to keep air away from the metal, a thin layer works
as well as copious globs.


I don't buy WD40 anymore. I've had two large cans in a row get clogged
internally, so nothing would come out. The cans were still pretty much
full. Full and useless....

The stuff doesn't do very much successfully. It makes a rotten
lubricant. The only thing it actually does well is displace water, which
is where it got its name, WaterDisplacer. One can assume it was recipe
#40 that finally worked.

I think Howard Hughes had something to do with it.



mike

I think I have the same can I bought in 1981. I use Liquid Wrench on
stuck bolts, 3 in 1 Oil for light lubricating. 5W30 is in my old school
pump can for the swamp coolers, pillow blocks, etc.

On 02/01/2011 07:03 PM, RHF wrote:
On Feb 1, 4:46 pm, wrote:
On 02/01/2011 03:52 PM, RHF wrote:

- You are freaking nuts.

Dave,

Let's see some sort of stay-in-place 'conductive'
paste -or- 'Vaseline' {pure Petroleum Jelly} which
gets hot and runs-off a/o gets dirty.

like a squirrel getting ready for winter ~ RHF
.

- I haven't used petroleum jelly since WD-40
- started showing up in spray cans. The point
- is to keep air away from the metal, a thin layer
- works as well as copious globs.

Dave 'copious globs' works for me ...cause...
I was never a "Brylcreem" kind of guy ~ RHF
http://www.collectibles-articles.com...0599778204.jpg
.
.

On Feb 1, 6:53*pm, m II wrote:
On 11-02-01 05:46 PM, dave wrote:

I haven't used petroleum jelly since WD-40 started showing up in spray
cans. The point is to keep air away from the metal, a thin layer works
as well as copious globs.

- I don't buy WD40 anymore. I've had two large cans
- in a row get clogged internally, so nothing would come
- out. The cans were still pretty much full.
- Full and useless....
-
- The stuff doesn't do very much successfully.
- It makes a rotten lubricant. The only thing it actually
- does well is displace water, which is where it got its
- name, Water Displacer. One can assume it was
- recipe #40 that finally worked.
-
- I think Howard Hughes had something to do with it.
-
- mike

CAUTION : The Spray Fumes from WD40 are relatively
Toxic and for some people with an Asthmatic a/o other
Respiratory Conditions can bring on an attack a/o Chest
Cold like Symptoms.
* Use a Filter/Mask when using WD40.
* Use WD40 in a well ventilated area.
* Wash your Hands after use {Wear Gloves}

White Lithium Grease in a Tube works well
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR7M
and generally stays put.

~ RHF

On Feb 2, 5:14*am, dave wrote:
On 02/01/2011 06:53 PM, m II wrote:



On 11-02-01 05:46 PM, dave wrote:

I haven't used petroleum jelly since WD-40 started showing up in spray
cans. The point is to keep air away from the metal, a thin layer works
as well as copious globs.

I don't buy WD40 anymore. I've had two large cans in a row get clogged
internally, so nothing would come out. The cans were still pretty much
full. Full and useless....

The stuff doesn't do very much successfully. It makes a rotten
lubricant. The only thing it actually does well is displace water, which
is where it got its name, WaterDisplacer. One can assume it was recipe
#40 that finally worked.

I think Howard Hughes had something to do with it.

mike

I think I have the same can I bought in 1981. I use Liquid Wrench on
stuck bolts, 3 in 1 Oil for light lubricating. 5W30 is in my old school
pump can for the swamp coolers, pillow blocks, etc.

Ah the good old "3-In-One Oil" Company
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-in-1
-why- The Name "3-In-One Oil"
-to- "Clean, Lubricate and Protect"
-now- "The Tool Kit In A Can"
http://www.3inone.com/
Since 1894 . . . Now That’s a Long Lasting Oil !
http://www.3inone.com/about/history/

On Feb 1, 6:53*pm, m II wrote:
On 11-02-01 05:46 PM, dave wrote:

I haven't used petroleum jelly since WD-40 started showing up in spray
cans. The point is to keep air away from the metal, a thin layer works
as well as copious globs.

- I don't buy WD40 anymore.
- I've had two large cans in a row get clogged
- internally, so nothing would come out.
- The cans were still pretty much full.
- Full and useless....

Have you tried the "Non-Aerosol" WD-40 Trigger Pro ?
http://www.wd40.com/products/trigger-pro/