Just printed your instructions in prep for a trip to the store, and have one
question: The twin-lead is 300 ohm, connected to a 300/75 ohm matching
transformer, connected to 75 ohm coax. Then the coax is connectect to
another 75/300 ohm matching transformer, which is connected to the 1/8" mono
plug to plug into the external antenna jack? Is the 1/8" jack a 300 ohm
impedance connection? Somehow I thought it would be 50 or 75 ohms, like
coax. Do I need some 300 ohm coax to put between the second transformer and
the plug?

Thanks,

Dave


"RHF" wrote in message
om...
DAVE,

So you have a Sangean ATS -505 and your 'problems' are Antenna
Overload and Noise Levels.
* Consider a 'smaller' shorter Antenna will reduce the overload problems.
* Consider a Low Noise Antenna Design will reduce the noise problems.
{LOW NOISE SWL ANTENNA - popularized by John Doty}
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...enna/message/2
http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html

For a simple 'external' Shortwave Antenna to use with the Sangean
ATS-505 'portable' Shortwave Radio, using the 1/8" Mono-Jack
External Shortwave Antenna Input. Consider a Random Wire
Antenna using a Matching Transformer and Ground for Low Noise
and Wide Range Frequency Coverage.

PARTS: Here is a simple SWL Antenna Idea using a few common
RadioShack TV Antenna type parts:
Catalog #: 15-1174 = 25~50 Foot 300 Ohm (Flat) TV Twin-Lead
Catalog #: 15-1230 = 75 to 300 Ohm Matching Transformer (2 Ea.)
Catalog #: 274-286 = 1/8" Mono (Phone) Plug
Catalog #: Catalog #: 15-1579 = 25~50 Foot Coax Cable with F Connectors

NOTE: This is an 'improved' Random Wire SWL Antenna using "TV"
Parts for 'reducing' Man Made Noise (RFI EMF) that is generated in
or near most modern homes/buildings.

EXTERNAL "OUTSIDE" SWL ANTENNA:

The Antenna [Loop] Element is Stretched outside Horizontally or
in the shape of an Inverted "L". The Antenna [Loop] Element is
formed by connecting the two ends of the Far-End of the 300 Ohm
TV Twin Lead. This forms a continuous single skinny horizontal
flat loop going out and back. This also represents a Balance
300 Ohm Load to match-up with the 300 Ohm Matching Transformer.
The 300 Ohm Leads of the Matching Transformer connects to the
Near-Ends of the Loop Antenna Element. The 75 Ohm F Connector
of the Matching Transformer is connected to the 75 Ohm Coax Cable.
The 75 Ohm Coax Cable acts as the Lead-In from the Outside to
inside the house to the radio shack. The other end of the 75
Ohm Coax Cable is connected to the 75 Ohm F Connector of the
Matching Transformer. The Radio-End of the Coax Cable F Connector
would connect to a 75 to 300 Ohm Matching Transformer; and then
into a 1/8" Mono-Plug to plug into the Radio.
NOTE: Using the 300 Ohm TV Twin Lead in a Skinny Flat Loop
Antenna should balance-cancel-reduce most man made noise and be
Omni-Directional.

GROUND: Find a Grounding Point within/about your dwelling.
Secure a good Grounding Point for your Radio and Antenna.
Run a Heavy & Short Ground Wire to your Radio. Locate the
Ground Terminal on your Radio. Attach/Secure the Ground Wire
to the Coax Cable and/or the Radio's Ground Terminal.

FWIW: This Antenna using common TV Antenna type parts should
be effective as SWL Antennas above 5MHz and beyond 30MHz.


iane ~ RHF
.
Some Say: On A Clear Day You Can See Forever.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...na/message/502
I BELIEVE: On A Clear Night...
You Can Hear Forever and Beyond - The Beyond !
.
.
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of feet)
piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal "whip"
antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance
such a
device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my "DX"
setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of
other
broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source of
all
this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as I
can.
One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to the
wire
in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were going
to
try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to
bring
the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size
(roughly)
capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges,
or
does anyone here have any suggestions?

TIA

Cross-posted between sci.electronics.basics and rec.radio.shortwave


Dave


.

DAVE,

At the Radio-End of the 75 Ohm Coax Cable "F" Connector you can
use a standard 75-300 Ohm Matching Transformer and then connect
it to a Mini-TV External Antenna Adapter. [ RadioShack {Canada}
Catalog #: 15-1148 = 75 to 300 Ohm Mini-Plug Adapter ]
MINI-PLUG-ADAPTER= http://tinyurl.com/23nsh

FWIW: Some RadioShacks and other electronics stores have an "Adapter"
that directly connects an "F" Connector to a /18" Mono-Phone-Jack.


Please Note: That a 'connection' to a good earthen Ground is
needed to one of the "F" Connectors of the 75 Ohm Coax Cable.

You can use a #14 Wire with a RadioShack Catalog #: 278-002
Heavy-Duty Claw Insulated Test/Jumper Cable Sets. Or, simply
use several windings of bare wire wrapped around one of the "F"
Connectors with a small metal hose clamp to secure the wire.


iane ~ RHF
..
..
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
Just printed your instructions in prep for a trip to the store, and have one
question: The twin-lead is 300 ohm, connected to a 300/75 ohm matching
transformer, connected to 75 ohm coax. Then the coax is connectect to
another 75/300 ohm matching transformer, which is connected to the 1/8" mono
plug to plug into the external antenna jack? Is the 1/8" jack a 300 ohm
impedance connection? Somehow I thought it would be 50 or 75 ohms, like
coax. Do I need some 300 ohm coax to put between the second transformer and
the plug?

Thanks,

Dave


"RHF" wrote in message
om...
DAVE,

So you have a Sangean ATS -505 and your 'problems' are Antenna
Overload and Noise Levels.
* Consider a 'smaller' shorter Antenna will reduce the overload problems.
* Consider a Low Noise Antenna Design will reduce the noise problems.
{LOW NOISE SWL ANTENNA - popularized by John Doty}
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...enna/message/2
http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html

For a simple 'external' Shortwave Antenna to use with the Sangean
ATS-505 'portable' Shortwave Radio, using the 1/8" Mono-Jack
External Shortwave Antenna Input. Consider a Random Wire
Antenna using a Matching Transformer and Ground for Low Noise
and Wide Range Frequency Coverage.

PARTS: Here is a simple SWL Antenna Idea using a few common
RadioShack TV Antenna type parts:
Catalog #: 15-1174 = 25~50 Foot 300 Ohm (Flat) TV Twin-Lead
Catalog #: 15-1230 = 75 to 300 Ohm Matching Transformer (2 Ea.)
Catalog #: 274-286 = 1/8" Mono (Phone) Plug
Catalog #: Catalog #: 15-1579 = 25~50 Foot Coax Cable with F Connectors

NOTE: This is an 'improved' Random Wire SWL Antenna using "TV"
Parts for 'reducing' Man Made Noise (RFI EMF) that is generated in
or near most modern homes/buildings.

EXTERNAL "OUTSIDE" SWL ANTENNA:

The Antenna [Loop] Element is Stretched outside Horizontally or
in the shape of an Inverted "L". The Antenna [Loop] Element is
formed by connecting the two ends of the Far-End of the 300 Ohm
TV Twin Lead. This forms a continuous single skinny horizontal
flat loop going out and back. This also represents a Balance
300 Ohm Load to match-up with the 300 Ohm Matching Transformer.
The 300 Ohm Leads of the Matching Transformer connects to the
Near-Ends of the Loop Antenna Element. The 75 Ohm F Connector
of the Matching Transformer is connected to the 75 Ohm Coax Cable.
The 75 Ohm Coax Cable acts as the Lead-In from the Outside to
inside the house to the radio shack. The other end of the 75
Ohm Coax Cable is connected to the 75 Ohm F Connector of the
Matching Transformer. The Radio-End of the Coax Cable F Connector
would connect to a 75 to 300 Ohm Matching Transformer; and then
into a 1/8" Mono-Plug to plug into the Radio.
NOTE: Using the 300 Ohm TV Twin Lead in a Skinny Flat Loop
Antenna should balance-cancel-reduce most man made noise and be
Omni-Directional.

GROUND: Find a Grounding Point within/about your dwelling.
Secure a good Grounding Point for your Radio and Antenna.
Run a Heavy & Short Ground Wire to your Radio. Locate the
Ground Terminal on your Radio. Attach/Secure the Ground Wire
to the Coax Cable and/or the Radio's Ground Terminal.

FWIW: This Antenna using common TV Antenna type parts should
be effective as SWL Antennas above 5MHz and beyond 30MHz.


iane ~ RHF
.
Some Say: On A Clear Day You Can See Forever.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...na/message/502
I BELIEVE: On A Clear Night...
You Can Hear Forever and Beyond - The Beyond !
.
.
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of feet)
piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal "whip"
antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance
such a
device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my "DX"
setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of
other
broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source of
all
this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as I
can.
One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to the
wire
in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were going
to
try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt to
bring
the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size
(roughly)
capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different ranges,
or
does anyone here have any suggestions?

TIA

Cross-posted between sci.electronics.basics and rec.radio.shortwave


Dave


.

"RHF" wrote in message
om...
DAVE,

At the Radio-End of the 75 Ohm Coax Cable "F" Connector you can
use a standard 75-300 Ohm Matching Transformer and then connect
it to a Mini-TV External Antenna Adapter. [ RadioShack {Canada}
Catalog #: 15-1148 = 75 to 300 Ohm Mini-Plug Adapter ]
MINI-PLUG-ADAPTER= http://tinyurl.com/23nsh

FWIW: Some RadioShacks and other electronics stores have an "Adapter"
that directly connects an "F" Connector to a /18" Mono-Phone-Jack.


Please Note: That a 'connection' to a good earthen Ground is
needed to one of the "F" Connectors of the 75 Ohm Coax Cable.

You can use a #14 Wire with a RadioShack Catalog #: 278-002
Heavy-Duty Claw Insulated Test/Jumper Cable Sets. Or, simply
use several windings of bare wire wrapped around one of the "F"
Connectors with a small metal hose clamp to secure the wire.


iane ~ RHF
.
.
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
Just printed your instructions in prep for a trip to the store, and have
one
question: The twin-lead is 300 ohm, connected to a 300/75 ohm matching
transformer, connected to 75 ohm coax. Then the coax is connectect to
another 75/300 ohm matching transformer, which is connected to the 1/8"
mono
plug to plug into the external antenna jack? Is the 1/8" jack a 300 ohm
impedance connection? Somehow I thought it would be 50 or 75 ohms, like
coax. Do I need some 300 ohm coax to put between the second transformer
and
the plug?

Thanks,

Dave


"RHF" wrote in message
om...
DAVE,

So you have a Sangean ATS -505 and your 'problems' are Antenna
Overload and Noise Levels.
* Consider a 'smaller' shorter Antenna will reduce the overload
problems.
* Consider a Low Noise Antenna Design will reduce the noise problems.
{LOW NOISE SWL ANTENNA - popularized by John Doty}
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...enna/message/2
http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html

For a simple 'external' Shortwave Antenna to use with the Sangean
ATS-505 'portable' Shortwave Radio, using the 1/8" Mono-Jack
External Shortwave Antenna Input. Consider a Random Wire
Antenna using a Matching Transformer and Ground for Low Noise
and Wide Range Frequency Coverage.

PARTS: Here is a simple SWL Antenna Idea using a few common
RadioShack TV Antenna type parts:
Catalog #: 15-1174 = 25~50 Foot 300 Ohm (Flat) TV Twin-Lead
Catalog #: 15-1230 = 75 to 300 Ohm Matching Transformer (2 Ea.)
Catalog #: 274-286 = 1/8" Mono (Phone) Plug
Catalog #: Catalog #: 15-1579 = 25~50 Foot Coax Cable with F
Connectors

NOTE: This is an 'improved' Random Wire SWL Antenna using "TV"
Parts for 'reducing' Man Made Noise (RFI EMF) that is generated in
or near most modern homes/buildings.

EXTERNAL "OUTSIDE" SWL ANTENNA:

The Antenna [Loop] Element is Stretched outside Horizontally or
in the shape of an Inverted "L". The Antenna [Loop] Element is
formed by connecting the two ends of the Far-End of the 300 Ohm
TV Twin Lead. This forms a continuous single skinny horizontal
flat loop going out and back. This also represents a Balance
300 Ohm Load to match-up with the 300 Ohm Matching Transformer.
The 300 Ohm Leads of the Matching Transformer connects to the
Near-Ends of the Loop Antenna Element. The 75 Ohm F Connector
of the Matching Transformer is connected to the 75 Ohm Coax Cable.
The 75 Ohm Coax Cable acts as the Lead-In from the Outside to
inside the house to the radio shack. The other end of the 75
Ohm Coax Cable is connected to the 75 Ohm F Connector of the
Matching Transformer. The Radio-End of the Coax Cable F Connector
would connect to a 75 to 300 Ohm Matching Transformer; and then
into a 1/8" Mono-Plug to plug into the Radio.
NOTE: Using the 300 Ohm TV Twin Lead in a Skinny Flat Loop
Antenna should balance-cancel-reduce most man made noise and be
Omni-Directional.

GROUND: Find a Grounding Point within/about your dwelling.
Secure a good Grounding Point for your Radio and Antenna.
Run a Heavy & Short Ground Wire to your Radio. Locate the
Ground Terminal on your Radio. Attach/Secure the Ground Wire
to the Coax Cable and/or the Radio's Ground Terminal.

FWIW: This Antenna using common TV Antenna type parts should
be effective as SWL Antennas above 5MHz and beyond 30MHz.


iane ~ RHF
.
Some Say: On A Clear Day You Can See Forever.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...na/message/502
I BELIEVE: On A Clear Night...
You Can Hear Forever and Beyond - The Beyond !
.
.
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of
feet)
piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal
"whip"
antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance
such a
device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my
"DX"
setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of
other
broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source
of
all
this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as
I
can.
One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to
the
wire
in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were
going
to
try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt
to
bring
the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size
(roughly)
capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different
ranges,
or
does anyone here have any suggestions?

TIA

Cross-posted between sci.electronics.basics and rec.radio.shortwave


Dave


.

Argh. I just posted an empty message. Sorry. Please ignore.

Thanks for the info. I picked up a 300/75 ohm mini-plug adapter at the
store, but failed to get the second 75/300 ohm matching transformer to go
between it and the coax. Tomorrow.

Question: I have an odd situation, and can either install a 1/4 wave dipole
or a half-wave "random" wire loop (I think). Right now the grounding rod is
immediately below where the dipole would go, and I think I could drop the
300 ohm twin-lead down to it where I would ground one side (I think I have
this right, please correct me if I am wrong). At that same point I would
ground the shield of the coax, and hook the other side of the dipole to the
coax center conductor. Coax would travel 10 feet or so to my window and the
radio. Other option involves moving the grounding rod and doing something
similar with the twin-lead as a long loop, grounding one side of that and
coax from the other side of the window. Assuming these are workable ideas,
which do you think would work best? Again, [please don't hesitate to tell
me if I am full of crap. RF is new to me.

I really do appreciate your help. Like I said before, RF is totally new to
me.

Thanks,

Dave


"RHF" wrote in message
om...
DAVE,

At the Radio-End of the 75 Ohm Coax Cable "F" Connector you can
use a standard 75-300 Ohm Matching Transformer and then connect
it to a Mini-TV External Antenna Adapter. [ RadioShack {Canada}
Catalog #: 15-1148 = 75 to 300 Ohm Mini-Plug Adapter ]
MINI-PLUG-ADAPTER= http://tinyurl.com/23nsh

FWIW: Some RadioShacks and other electronics stores have an "Adapter"
that directly connects an "F" Connector to a /18" Mono-Phone-Jack.


Please Note: That a 'connection' to a good earthen Ground is
needed to one of the "F" Connectors of the 75 Ohm Coax Cable.

You can use a #14 Wire with a RadioShack Catalog #: 278-002
Heavy-Duty Claw Insulated Test/Jumper Cable Sets. Or, simply
use several windings of bare wire wrapped around one of the "F"
Connectors with a small metal hose clamp to secure the wire.


iane ~ RHF
.
.
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
Just printed your instructions in prep for a trip to the store, and have
one
question: The twin-lead is 300 ohm, connected to a 300/75 ohm matching
transformer, connected to 75 ohm coax. Then the coax is connectect to
another 75/300 ohm matching transformer, which is connected to the 1/8"
mono
plug to plug into the external antenna jack? Is the 1/8" jack a 300 ohm
impedance connection? Somehow I thought it would be 50 or 75 ohms, like
coax. Do I need some 300 ohm coax to put between the second transformer
and
the plug?

Thanks,

Dave


"RHF" wrote in message
om...
DAVE,

So you have a Sangean ATS -505 and your 'problems' are Antenna
Overload and Noise Levels.
* Consider a 'smaller' shorter Antenna will reduce the overload
problems.
* Consider a Low Noise Antenna Design will reduce the noise problems.
{LOW NOISE SWL ANTENNA - popularized by John Doty}
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...enna/message/2
http://www.anarc.org/naswa/badx/ante...e_antenna.html

For a simple 'external' Shortwave Antenna to use with the Sangean
ATS-505 'portable' Shortwave Radio, using the 1/8" Mono-Jack
External Shortwave Antenna Input. Consider a Random Wire
Antenna using a Matching Transformer and Ground for Low Noise
and Wide Range Frequency Coverage.

PARTS: Here is a simple SWL Antenna Idea using a few common
RadioShack TV Antenna type parts:
Catalog #: 15-1174 = 25~50 Foot 300 Ohm (Flat) TV Twin-Lead
Catalog #: 15-1230 = 75 to 300 Ohm Matching Transformer (2 Ea.)
Catalog #: 274-286 = 1/8" Mono (Phone) Plug
Catalog #: Catalog #: 15-1579 = 25~50 Foot Coax Cable with F
Connectors

NOTE: This is an 'improved' Random Wire SWL Antenna using "TV"
Parts for 'reducing' Man Made Noise (RFI EMF) that is generated in
or near most modern homes/buildings.

EXTERNAL "OUTSIDE" SWL ANTENNA:

The Antenna [Loop] Element is Stretched outside Horizontally or
in the shape of an Inverted "L". The Antenna [Loop] Element is
formed by connecting the two ends of the Far-End of the 300 Ohm
TV Twin Lead. This forms a continuous single skinny horizontal
flat loop going out and back. This also represents a Balance
300 Ohm Load to match-up with the 300 Ohm Matching Transformer.
The 300 Ohm Leads of the Matching Transformer connects to the
Near-Ends of the Loop Antenna Element. The 75 Ohm F Connector
of the Matching Transformer is connected to the 75 Ohm Coax Cable.
The 75 Ohm Coax Cable acts as the Lead-In from the Outside to
inside the house to the radio shack. The other end of the 75
Ohm Coax Cable is connected to the 75 Ohm F Connector of the
Matching Transformer. The Radio-End of the Coax Cable F Connector
would connect to a 75 to 300 Ohm Matching Transformer; and then
into a 1/8" Mono-Plug to plug into the Radio.
NOTE: Using the 300 Ohm TV Twin Lead in a Skinny Flat Loop
Antenna should balance-cancel-reduce most man made noise and be
Omni-Directional.

GROUND: Find a Grounding Point within/about your dwelling.
Secure a good Grounding Point for your Radio and Antenna.
Run a Heavy & Short Ground Wire to your Radio. Locate the
Ground Terminal on your Radio. Attach/Secure the Ground Wire
to the Coax Cable and/or the Radio's Ground Terminal.

FWIW: This Antenna using common TV Antenna type parts should
be effective as SWL Antennas above 5MHz and beyond 30MHz.


iane ~ RHF
.
Some Say: On A Clear Day You Can See Forever.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortw...na/message/502
I BELIEVE: On A Clear Night...
You Can Hear Forever and Beyond - The Beyond !
.
.
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
I recently hooked up a thirty-six foot (plus or minus a couple of
feet)
piece of four-stranded wire with alligator clip to the internal
"whip"
antenna of my portable shortwave receiver, for the extra performance
such a
device offered. It works so well that I now cannot usually use my
"DX"
setting because of all the background noise (sounds like hundreds of
other
broadcasts vying for attention.) I don't know the frequency source
of
all
this background noise, but would like to filter out as much of it as
I
can.
One manufacturer of a similar "wind-up" antenna adds a capacitor to
the
wire
in order to lower the resonance frequency of the wire. If I were
going
to
try something similar (adding a capacitor, in series) in an attempt
to
bring
the resonance of the wire down into the 30 MHz range, what size
(roughly)
capacitor should I use? Should I just try a few with different
ranges,
or
does anyone here have any suggestions?

TIA

Cross-posted between sci.electronics.basics and rec.radio.shortwave


Dave


.

= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
Argh. I just posted an empty message. Sorry. Please ignore.

Thanks for the info. I picked up a 300/75 ohm mini-plug adapter at the
store, but failed to get the second 75/300 ohm matching transformer to go
between it and the coax. Tomorrow.

Question: I have an odd situation, and can either install a 1/4 wave dipole
or a half-wave "random" wire loop (I think).

A "Random" Wire Antenna is simply that = Any Length that FITS
the Space that is Available to put up and Antenna.

For these general types of Low Noise Antennas. The Inverted "L"
{Shaped} Antenna lends itself to the design the best.

Run the Horizontal Arm for as long as you can at your roof line.

Run the Vertial Leg down to your Ground Rod Location.

Make your 'primary' Grounding Point "Connection".

Run your Coax Cable from the Grounding Point to your Radio.
..
..
Right now the grounding rod is immediately below where the
dipole would go, and I think I could drop the 300 ohm twin-lead
down to it where I would ground one side (I think I have
this right, please correct me if I am wrong).

Initially do NOT Ground the 300 Ohm Twin Lead.
[ This is the Antenna Side of the Matching Transformer. ]
The Near-End of the 300 Ohm Twin Lead is connected across the
300 Ohm-Side of the Matching Transformer; and the other Far-End
of the 300 Ohm Twin Lead Wires are Connected (Joined) Together.
This forms a Long Shinny Loop Antenna Element.

FWIW: This is a very 'quiet' Antenna (almost sounds dead)
until you get spot on the frequency and then the signal is there.
..
..
At that same point I would ground the shield of the coax,
and hook the other side of the dipole to the coax center conductor.
Coax would travel 10 feet or so to my window and the radio.

First simply try Grounding the Outer-Shield of the Coax Cable ONLY.
..
..
Other option involves moving the grounding rod

IF - You move the Ground Rod. Place it so you can have an
Inverted "L" Antenna with the longest Horizontal Arm 'possible'.
(30 60-90 120 Feet)

iane ~ RHF
..
..
and doing something similar with the twin-lead as a long loop,
grounding one side of that and coax from the other side of the window.
Assuming these are workable ideas,
which do you think would work best? Again, [please don't hesitate to tell
me if I am full of crap. RF is new to me.

I really do appreciate your help. Like I said before, RF is totally new to
me.

Thanks,

Dave

An idea just occurred to me. Since you (RHF) are the main one I am talking
with on this subject at this point, and since I did join the Yahoo!
Shortwave Antenna group, I am going to try (that is, do my best) to move
this over to that group. All posts from this point on, at least on this
particular thread, will be made there. This text will be posted there in a
few minutes, alongwith a couple more questions and clarifications.

Thanks for introducing me to that group, which I am trying to get more
into, and thanks for your help so far.

Dave


"RHF" wrote in message
om...
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
Argh. I just posted an empty message. Sorry. Please ignore.

Thanks for the info. I picked up a 300/75 ohm mini-plug adapter at the
store, but failed to get the second 75/300 ohm matching transformer to
go
between it and the coax. Tomorrow.

Question: I have an odd situation, and can either install a 1/4 wave
dipole
or a half-wave "random" wire loop (I think).

A "Random" Wire Antenna is simply that = Any Length that FITS
the Space that is Available to put up and Antenna.

For these general types of Low Noise Antennas. The Inverted "L"
{Shaped} Antenna lends itself to the design the best.

Run the Horizontal Arm for as long as you can at your roof line.

Run the Vertial Leg down to your Ground Rod Location.

Make your 'primary' Grounding Point "Connection".

Run your Coax Cable from the Grounding Point to your Radio.
.
.
Right now the grounding rod is immediately below where the
dipole would go, and I think I could drop the 300 ohm twin-lead
down to it where I would ground one side (I think I have
this right, please correct me if I am wrong).

Initially do NOT Ground the 300 Ohm Twin Lead.
[ This is the Antenna Side of the Matching Transformer. ]
The Near-End of the 300 Ohm Twin Lead is connected across the
300 Ohm-Side of the Matching Transformer; and the other Far-End
of the 300 Ohm Twin Lead Wires are Connected (Joined) Together.
This forms a Long Shinny Loop Antenna Element.

FWIW: This is a very 'quiet' Antenna (almost sounds dead)
until you get spot on the frequency and then the signal is there.
.
.
At that same point I would ground the shield of the coax,
and hook the other side of the dipole to the coax center conductor.
Coax would travel 10 feet or so to my window and the radio.

First simply try Grounding the Outer-Shield of the Coax Cable ONLY.
.
.
Other option involves moving the grounding rod

IF - You move the Ground Rod. Place it so you can have an
Inverted "L" Antenna with the longest Horizontal Arm 'possible'.
(30 60-90 120 Feet)

iane ~ RHF
.
.
and doing something similar with the twin-lead as a long loop,
grounding one side of that and coax from the other side of the window.
Assuming these are workable ideas,
which do you think would work best? Again, [please don't hesitate to
tell
me if I am full of crap. RF is new to me.

I really do appreciate your help. Like I said before, RF is totally new
to
me.

Thanks,

Dave

And what of the people just fallowing along? Don't suggest Yahoo. It's not
an option.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
An idea just occurred to me. Since you (RHF) are the main one I am
talking
with on this subject at this point, and since I did join the Yahoo!
Shortwave Antenna group, I am going to try (that is, do my best) to move
this over to that group. All posts from this point on, at least on this
particular thread, will be made there. This text will be posted there in
a
few minutes, alongwith a couple more questions and clarifications.

Thanks for introducing me to that group, which I am trying to get more
into, and thanks for your help so far.

Dave


"RHF" wrote in message
om...
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
Argh. I just posted an empty message. Sorry. Please ignore.

Thanks for the info. I picked up a 300/75 ohm mini-plug adapter at
the
store, but failed to get the second 75/300 ohm matching transformer to
go
between it and the coax. Tomorrow.

Question: I have an odd situation, and can either install a 1/4 wave
dipole
or a half-wave "random" wire loop (I think).

A "Random" Wire Antenna is simply that = Any Length that FITS
the Space that is Available to put up and Antenna.

For these general types of Low Noise Antennas. The Inverted "L"
{Shaped} Antenna lends itself to the design the best.

Run the Horizontal Arm for as long as you can at your roof line.

Run the Vertial Leg down to your Ground Rod Location.

Make your 'primary' Grounding Point "Connection".

Run your Coax Cable from the Grounding Point to your Radio.
.
.
Right now the grounding rod is immediately below where the
dipole would go, and I think I could drop the 300 ohm twin-lead
down to it where I would ground one side (I think I have
this right, please correct me if I am wrong).

Initially do NOT Ground the 300 Ohm Twin Lead.
[ This is the Antenna Side of the Matching Transformer. ]
The Near-End of the 300 Ohm Twin Lead is connected across the
300 Ohm-Side of the Matching Transformer; and the other Far-End
of the 300 Ohm Twin Lead Wires are Connected (Joined) Together.
This forms a Long Shinny Loop Antenna Element.

FWIW: This is a very 'quiet' Antenna (almost sounds dead)
until you get spot on the frequency and then the signal is there.
.
.
At that same point I would ground the shield of the coax,
and hook the other side of the dipole to the coax center conductor.
Coax would travel 10 feet or so to my window and the radio.

First simply try Grounding the Outer-Shield of the Coax Cable ONLY.
.
.
Other option involves moving the grounding rod

IF - You move the Ground Rod. Place it so you can have an
Inverted "L" Antenna with the longest Horizontal Arm 'possible'.
(30 60-90 120 Feet)

iane ~ RHF
.
.
and doing something similar with the twin-lead as a long loop,
grounding one side of that and coax from the other side of the window.
Assuming these are workable ideas,
which do you think would work best? Again, [please don't hesitate to
tell
me if I am full of crap. RF is new to me.

I really do appreciate your help. Like I said before, RF is totally
new
to
me.

Thanks,

Dave

Okay, I'll try to keep you posted. Here's what I asked on Yahoo!

OKAY, here are the new questions and clarifications...

Thanks for clearing up for me why it is called a random wire. I
thought that was just what they called it when it wasn't 1/4 or 1/2
wavelength.

I realized something today- I think I am actually talking about
installing a HALF-WAVE dipole, not a 1/4 wave. Since it is twin-lead
I am talking about, and since it is going to be joined at the far
end, each leg would be twice the 1/4 wavelength of the physical
cable. Am I right here?

Correct me if I am wrong, but you do ground one side of a dipole,
right? So one leg would be grounded along with the shield of the
coax, right?

What I am visualizing is two pieces of twin-lead, one called A (left)
and the other called B (right.) A would have one side of one end
soldered to the ground rod (call this the "near" end) with the other
side of that end hanging out in space. The rest of that piece of
twin-lead (side A) would go up the side of my house to the eaves and
over several meters. The far end of A would have the two conductors
soldered together. B would have one side of the "near" end attached
to the appropriate lead of a 300/75 ohm matching transformer, which
has it's other lead soldered to the grounding rod and goes to 75 ohm
coax. The other side of the "near" end of B hangs out in space. B
would then go up the side of the house to the eaves, just like A, but
would then stretch several meters in the other direction. The "far"
end of B would also have the two conductors soldered together. Each
leg is a little over 15 meters long (counting the part that goes up
as well as the part that goes over), which would make the whole
dipole a half-wavelength for some frequency slightly below 10 MHz.
(Have I got this right?)

The coax would travel approx. 4 meters to my window, where it would
go through another matching transformer and into the external antenna
input of the radio.

Wouldn't that be a half-wave dipole?

Would it matter that the side of the house is covered in steel
siding, against which it would be lying?

Would this work, or would an inverted L still be better (or
quieter)? I could put the grounding rod immediately outside my
window, which might enable me to make the long leg of the L somewhat
longer than the combined 30 meters of the dipole. That would make
for a shorter run of coax, but the soil would be drier thereby making
for a poorer ground (where it is now, the grounding rod sits next to
the output of a downspout.)

If I went with the inverted L (with joined conducters on the far end
to make a loop) would I still ground one side of the twin-lead? Do
you ground one side of a loop?

Okay, I've written War and Peace. Sorry for the great number of
questions, I'm just trying to understand the fundamentals of
installing an antenna. I hope I am not trying your patience.

Thanks,

Dave


I also posted another message asking if anyone had read the book called
Shortwave Listener's Antenna Handbook published by TAB books in '82. I saw
it on Amazon.com, but they didn't have any ratings for it. If anyone HERE
has read it, please share your opinion with me.

Dave


"CW" wrote in message
...
And what of the people just fallowing along? Don't suggest Yahoo. It's not
an option.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
An idea just occurred to me. Since you (RHF) are the main one I am
talking
with on this subject at this point, and since I did join the Yahoo!
Shortwave Antenna group, I am going to try (that is, do my best) to move
this over to that group. All posts from this point on, at least on this
particular thread, will be made there. This text will be posted there
in
a
few minutes, alongwith a couple more questions and clarifications.

Thanks for introducing me to that group, which I am trying to get more
into, and thanks for your help so far.

Dave


"RHF" wrote in message
om...
= = = "Dave" wrote in message
= = = ...
Argh. I just posted an empty message. Sorry. Please ignore.

Thanks for the info. I picked up a 300/75 ohm mini-plug adapter at
the
store, but failed to get the second 75/300 ohm matching transformer
to
go
between it and the coax. Tomorrow.

Question: I have an odd situation, and can either install a 1/4
wave
dipole
or a half-wave "random" wire loop (I think).

A "Random" Wire Antenna is simply that = Any Length that FITS
the Space that is Available to put up and Antenna.

For these general types of Low Noise Antennas. The Inverted "L"
{Shaped} Antenna lends itself to the design the best.

Run the Horizontal Arm for as long as you can at your roof line.

Run the Vertial Leg down to your Ground Rod Location.

Make your 'primary' Grounding Point "Connection".

Run your Coax Cable from the Grounding Point to your Radio.
.
.
Right now the grounding rod is immediately below where the
dipole would go, and I think I could drop the 300 ohm twin-lead
down to it where I would ground one side (I think I have
this right, please correct me if I am wrong).

Initially do NOT Ground the 300 Ohm Twin Lead.
[ This is the Antenna Side of the Matching Transformer. ]
The Near-End of the 300 Ohm Twin Lead is connected across the
300 Ohm-Side of the Matching Transformer; and the other Far-End
of the 300 Ohm Twin Lead Wires are Connected (Joined) Together.
This forms a Long Shinny Loop Antenna Element.

FWIW: This is a very 'quiet' Antenna (almost sounds dead)
until you get spot on the frequency and then the signal is there.
.
.
At that same point I would ground the shield of the coax,
and hook the other side of the dipole to the coax center conductor.
Coax would travel 10 feet or so to my window and the radio.

First simply try Grounding the Outer-Shield of the Coax Cable ONLY.
.
.
Other option involves moving the grounding rod

IF - You move the Ground Rod. Place it so you can have an
Inverted "L" Antenna with the longest Horizontal Arm 'possible'.
(30 60-90 120 Feet)

iane ~ RHF
.
.
and doing something similar with the twin-lead as a long loop,
grounding one side of that and coax from the other side of the
window.
Assuming these are workable ideas,
which do you think would work best? Again, [please don't hesitate
to
tell
me if I am full of crap. RF is new to me.

I really do appreciate your help. Like I said before, RF is totally
new
to
me.

Thanks,

Dave

Dave wrote:

An idea just occurred to me. Since you (RHF) are the main one I am talking
with on this subject at this point, and since I did join the Yahoo!
Shortwave Antenna group, I am going to try (that is, do my best) to move
this over to that group. All posts from this point on, at least on this
particular thread, will be made there.

I don't do Yahoo groups so I'll say goodbye Dave.


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"starman" wrote in message
...
Dave wrote:

An idea just occurred to me. Since you (RHF) are the main one I am
talking
with on this subject at this point, and since I did join the Yahoo!
Shortwave Antenna group, I am going to try (that is, do my best) to move
this over to that group. All posts from this point on, at least on this
particular thread, will be made there.

I don't do Yahoo groups so I'll say goodbye Dave.

HANG ON! I didn't know anyone else was interested. Can I just try to post
my questions here as well? If you guys want, I'll post his answers as well.
See my previous post CW for the questions I asked RHF in the Yahoo! group.

Didn't mean to cut anyone out. Just thought I was wasting space. Sorry.

Dave