Terry:

The only diagram I have is the one that came in the "manual" (4 pages) and
is labeled, "DA-5". There is no separate diagram for the DA-7.

There is no difference in the length of the ferrite rods between the DA-5
and the DA-7.

--Guy


On 8/4/05 5:31 AM, in article
,
" wrote:

Guy Kudlemyer

I own both the KIWA and a McKay/Dymek DA-7 (which is the same as the
DA-5,
except that it also covers longwave), and I can attest that the KIWA is
eminently superior.

--Guy
Thurston, OR
-----------------------
Do you have a diagram of the DA7?

I had always thought it's main claim to fame was a
longer feritte rod. TheDA5 diagram is very simple.
It would be nice if it is easy to modify the DA5 to
co er LF as well.

Terry

Thanks.
Is the band change switch on the loop or
on the tuning unit. If it is on the loop then
they are adding more turns, if it is on the
tuner, then they are adding more capacitance.

I don't know if you have ever had the loop open,
but it has very few turns. Much less then one
would expect on a MW feritte rod antenna.

Terry

Just what do they mean by Active? (hey,I am dumb) Does it mean it is
Active because they use a battery and the battery "Activates" it?
cuhulin

cuhu... wrote:

Just what do they mean by Active? (hey,I am dumb) Does it mean it is
Active because they use a battery and the battery "Activates" it?
cuhulin
-----------------------
And active antenna is an antenna with a built in amplifier, or "active"

component. For example the AmRad active antenna uses a special
FET (Field Effect Transistor) and is "as effective" as a ~100' long
wire.

For low frequencies, like a 60KHz signal, even a 100' antenna is short.
The AmRad, DA100-E, "North County" and even the "Tiny Tenna"
all use transistors to convert a small 36" or so, wire into a usefull
antenna. The Tiny Tenna is the simplest, but even it will do a decent
job far from any MW (AM 540~1600KHz).

Loops can be passive or have amplifiers, and those with amplifiers
are termed active.

For RF reception from 500KHz through ~30MHz I prefer the common
~100' wire antenna. For MW DX work a loop is hard to beat. For
LF work, 500KHz and lower, an active antenna is the only practical
way to go.

Terry

Terry:

The band change switch is on the loop. The knob on the front of the unit has
MW freq's listed on one side, and LW freq's listed on the other, 180 degrees
apart. The LW runs from just below 150 Khz to just over 300 Khz. The MW
seems to tune all the way down to 510, and up to about 1630.

--Guy


On 8/4/05 2:42 PM, in article
,
" wrote:

Thanks.
Is the band change switch on the loop or
on the tuning unit. If it is on the loop then
they are adding more turns, if it is on the
tuner, then they are adding more capacitance.

I don't know if you have ever had the loop open,
but it has very few turns. Much less then one
would expect on a MW feritte rod antenna.

Terry

Awwwww, forget them Tiny Tunna,s (Oooops,Tiny Tenna's) I bought one of
them from that fool about eight years ago.It arrived here dead on
arrival,I will never buy anything from that mf (Massey Ferguson) b.....d
ever again.Thanks anyway for the explaination about active antennas.
cuhulin

Guy Kudlemyer wrote:

Terry:

The band change switch is on the loop. The knob on the front of the
unit has
MW freq's listed on one side, and LW freq's listed on the other, 180
degrees
apart. The LW runs from just below 150 Khz to just over 300 Khz. The MW
seems to tune all the way down to 510, and up to about 1630.

--Guy

---------------
Thanks!
That means they are switching more windings for LF.
I bet they use the exact same electronics in the tuner
and all the magic is in the loop. I further bet that I can
get at least 3 bands, 100~300, 300~500 and the stock
MW. It would be nice to see if it will work down to 60KHz
for WWVB all the way up to 1.8MHz or above. Since I
have a spare feritte rod, I will have to "duplicate" the
rod part and see what I can see.

I won't get around to this for a few weeks or longer, but if
it works I will post the number of turns I use and the results
I get.

Terry