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#1
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![]() Here's a link to a picture of my antenna, maybe someone can tell me what I have. Also, does the fact that the "receivers" are off place and therefore touching affect the signal? Since I will be up there, I will straighten them, but odds are they will get crossed again. (I've aready fixed this in the past.) http://www.acequality.net/temp/antenna.jpg |
#2
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If you use any tape, (especially outside) all tape isn't the same.Most
of us have seen plastic tape unravel before.Electricians supply stores sell a good heavy duty old fasioned kind of tape for wrapping electrical connections and that kind of tape will last many,many years outside and inside without unravelling and will remain waterproof too.There is a type of paint on "tape" product available,but I dont remember the brand name of it.You might want to check with some recreational vehicles (motorhomes,camping trailers,etc) dealers and see what kind of tv antennas they sell and also talk to some folks who live in trailer parks and camping grounds areas about tv antennas.The folks in this news group offered some very good information too. cuhulin |
#3
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![]() jg wrote: Here's a link to a picture of my antenna, maybe someone can tell me what I have. Also, does the fact that the "receivers" are off place and therefore touching affect the signal? Since I will be up there, I will straighten them, but odds are they will get crossed again. (I've aready fixed this in the past.) http://www.acequality.net/temp/antenna.jpg It appears you have the Radio Shack model VU-120 antenna. The best information I can get on this antenna is: gain is only fair to good and directivity is probably below average to average. This antenna is made mainly for local/suburb reception, NOT for distant stations. The beamwidth on this antenna is NOT narrow enough - that is why you can pick up San Francisco stations without turning the antenna. NOT A GOOD ANTENNA FOR WHAT YOU WANT TO RECEIVE. Stick with Channel Master, Winegard, or Jerrold brand antennas. They are built to last and have much higher gain and much better directivity. In YOUR case, I would add the Channel Master 8-bay bowtie antenna for distant UHF signals and keep your other antenna for the locals. Otherwise, you are talking about a $200 UHF/VHF antenna. The 8-bay antenna is not high priced, and beats the UHF section of EVERY UHF/VHF antenna on the market that I know of. But it is extremely directional and you will need a rotor. Also, not only is the gain high and the directivity outstanding, but the design of an 8-bay bowtie gives more "signal capture area" because of the large screen behind the active elements. This really helps in mountainess areas and other weak signal areas. The design of the antenna also narrows both vertical and horizontal beamwidth, resulting in less ghosting. If you can barely pick up a UHF signal with your current antenna, chances are the signal will be very good with the 8-bay bowtie. And I'm talking about your current antenna with NEW coax cable, not your current mixed lead. |
#4
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More info on your antenna compared to the 8-bay bowtie on UHF signals.
The following are approximate figures based on all the information I can find. Your antenna gives an average gain of about 6 db while the 8-bay bowtie gives an average gain of 13.0 db. Depending on the channel, the MINIMUM gain on your antenna is about 0 db while the MINIMUM on the 8-bay bowtie is 9.5. I don't have specifics as to the channels on your antenna. Every 3 db DOUBLES the signal. The average horizontal beamwith of your antenna on UHF is about 31 degrees while the 8-bay bowtie is about 21 degrees. BIG differences. The 8-bay bowtie rejects signals coming from the sides and back several times as much as your current antenna. |
#6
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#7
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Ok, so is it possible to have both my current antenna pointed in one
direction (minus the UHF section) and use this new antenna pointed in a different direction? Then just combine the signal? This would give me the best of both world w/o the need for a rotor. |
#8
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In article .com,
jg wrote: Ok, so is it possible to have both my current antenna pointed in one direction (minus the UHF section) and use this new antenna pointed in a different direction? Then just combine the signal? This would give me the best of both world w/o the need for a rotor. Sure. Back in the dark ages, when the UHF channels went up to Channel 83, TV sets didn't have a combined antenna input, instead they had two (usually 300 ohm) inputs, one for each band. To save cable, VHF/UHF splitter/combiners were used if you had an all band antenna. They're bidirectional, the same unit can be used either way. So you can run two antennas into the one cable. Mark Zenier Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com) |
#9
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Now if you really want to twist some wire,get somebody to hold on to one
end with a big Visegrip pliers and get an electric drill and clamp the other end of the wire in the drill chuck and mash that trigger and turn that drill motor on.I have here a Terk TV 50 antenna which I bought for five dollars at the Goodwill store about a year ago.It is about seven feet long and I think it is an amplified tv anteanna meant for motorhomes,campers,etc.Since I subscribe to DirecTV,I dont really need the Terk TV 50 for tv reception.I figure someday I will try it out on one of my other tv sets to see if it works.I have been wondering if it would work ok for a Shortwave Radio antenna,I guess someday I might try it out on one of my old beat up Goodwill Shortwave Radios and see what kind of noise it makes. cuhulin |
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