It's a new hole -- two days old now though. I am using an MFJ-1623
tuner which also includes tuning for the counterpoise ground which I'll be
using.

The wire will be enough to hold one small bird -- if necessary
I can always rebuild with heavier wire (the MKII version
I mentioned before)!

I checked carefully before I drilled and missed the glass
entirely which is unusual because Murphy lives with me! I've
never seen him, but his influence is always around!

The magnetic loop would not be using the
window frame -- I have some 1/2 inch flexible
copper tubing which I brought from my condo
(which will officially be off my books at noon today!)

Last week we had a flea market in Calgary. Having given
away all my precious ham radio parts (aka junk) I was in dire
need of a roller inductor and a variable capacitor or two
to build (if necessary) an artificial ground, or a matching
device of some sort for whatever purpose I might dream up.

I walked into the market, paid my admission, and the first
thing I saw was a box (about 4 cu ft) of variable caps of
assorted shapes and sizes. I bent down to have a closer
look since I could hardly believe my eyes, and asked the
seller 'How Much?' At the same time, I noticed another
box of the same size full of assorted inductors, some
roller inductors, some coil forms, some coil stock and
such. It was like a dream come true. The seller
responded '20 bucks for the whole box' and I asked
'How about 20 bucks for both boxes' and he
accepted! Talk about a lucky find -- some of that
stuff is hard to find nowadays, and to purchase would
cost a fortune. I have both boxes in the trunk of my
car as there is little room in my suite to allow me to
start collecting parts aka junk! I've brought the cream
of the crop up to my suite and have cleaned them off
using an electric toothbrush and a mildly abrasive
cleaner -- they look like new. I now have sufficient
L and C, both fixed and variable, or every sort and
description to keep me happy for a long while. The
rest I will store in my brother's garage until the next
flea market where I intend to recoup my $20 bucks
plus the admission price!

I've tested the MFJ-1623 and it will work 80 thru
10M with the wire -- the wire is basically the same as
the 12 foot whip only longer but thinner. If it doesn't,
I have another MFJ-949E which I got as junk because
the coil switch was burned (I replaced it in an hour
with a new single pole 12 position) and it's been
tested and used by a friend of mine for the last
couple years. If one or the other works or doesn't,
I've got all that LC stuff from the flea market so
if necessary I can put together enough to load a
wet noodle.

I did load a wet noodle once, and worked from
Penhold AB to Red Deer AB (about 10 miles)
just to show it could be done! I love antennas.

Does anyone recall reading a book on antennas
that had a Chapter subtitle saying 'Antennas are
Funny People!'? I'd love to find the book again.

My carpeting is wall to wall, so the chicken wire
ground would have to be on top of the carpet. I'm
sure though, that if anyone asked, I would simply
explain 'I'm a Ham' and they would shake their
heads understandingly and not ask any more
foolish questions!

One way or the other, with the planned
setup, I intend to get some signals out -- come
hell or high water. I don't give up on my hobby
after all these years, and I've helped many a ham
get on the air under worse (but not much worse)
circumstances.

Gotta get downstairs and vote -- we are having
our provincial election today!

73

Irv VE6BP
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 23:18:17 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

I just want something quick and cheap so I've ruled out
anything like copper clad steel and such.

Will your 25ft span of copper wire support a few birds? If not,
please reconsider copperweld.

Just to clear things up on the geometry, the wire will run
out the window horizontally to the tree (about 25 ft) and
then drop vertically (another 25 ft approx) through the
tree to just above the
ground. Sort of an inverted letter "L". It is just a
random wire, and the best I can do at the moment
given my current situation.

Do you have an antenna tuner? The FT-817ND does not have a built in
antenna tuner. You're going to need one with your random wire and
random configuration.

The hole through the window frame is too small (1/4 in.)
for conduit but I plan to use a heavy plastic kids drinking
straw, tilted down on the outside, and plugged with some
silicon seal at each end where the wire enters and exits.

Ummm... is this an existing hole are you going to drill a new hole?
The modern windows that I've seen have the glass extend almost to the
edge of the frame with only a sheet rubber spacer in between. You're
highly likely to drill through the glass if you decide to drill the
frame.

I may even try loading the window
frame (aluminum, 5 ft x 5 ft (approx)) using a handy
sheet metal screw for the connection.

With 5 watts, that might work. Forget about building a magnetically
coupled loop. You would need to split the frame at some point, and
install a variable capacitor. That's probably not going to happen.

If your window proves to be uncoated glass (unlikely), you might
consider two squares of aluminum foil on both sides of the window to
couple through the RF via a ladder line. You won't get much
capacitance so it won't work on the lower frequencies, but should be
tolerable for the higher bands.

A reminder -- the ground system will be tuned counterpoise
wires running along the wall inside my apartment. I have an
MFJ-1623 tuner which will handle tuning the antenna and
the counterpoise in a very nice compact arrangement with
only one meter to watch!

Good, you have a tuner. However, that's designed specifically to
handle a 12ft balcony mount HF antenna. I don't know what it will do
with a longer antenna. Looking at the schematic:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/pdffiles/MFJ-1623.pdf
it seems to be a crude L match, which isn't going to match every
combination of reactance and frequency. The meter does NOT indicate
VSWR, so you really won't know if the tuner is effective. My
guess(tm) is you're going to purchasing a more elaborate antenna
tuner, a VSWR meter, or using a 12ft piece of wire.

I once used a large sheet of WELDED chicken wire under the carpet for
a "ground". It has to be welded to prevent the galvanizing from
forming diodes. It sorta worked but nobody wanted the lumpy carpet.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

"Edwin Johnson" wrote in message
...
Hello Irv,

On 2012-04-23, Irv Finkleman wrote:
1. Is there wire with camoflage insulation? (just kidding!)
I plan on using wire with beige or tan colored insulation. I

I do a fair amount of camping with portable operations and have an 80m
loop
and end-fed zepp at the house in a residential area with no restrictions.
Actually, the black or copper wire (when it starts turning from shiny) is
the less visible of all, either against sky or trees. My ef zepp is white
with blue stripes and it actually glistens at certain light angles. You
actually have to look to find the loop in the yard and it is 294 ft long,
made of #16 gauge copper clad.

This first antenna here is going to be quick and simple with Tan
colored wire. If that doesn't work, the MKII may incorporate
your suggestion!

a 1/4 inch hole in the aluminum window frame. I was going
to feed it through a plastic straw to prevent chafing and
possible short circuiting. Any suggestions on the best way
through the hole to prevent any problems?

With a 1/4 inch hole, actually might be less, you could run a very short
piece (a few inches/cm) of r8x, r59, r58, or any of the smaller coax and
simply trim off the shield at the end and use the middle conductor for the
wire. Also, small rubber, teflon, or plastic tubing such as used in model
airplanes might work.

I considered the coax feed through but would prefer it all be one piece of
wire from the tuner to the end. Thanks for the suggestion though.

I use parallel pieces of coax with shields soldered together and connect
my
open wire feed to the center conductors to get under my metal framed
window.
Actually have a strip of wood with holes for this and close the window
down
on that strip of wood. Of course in the winter up in AB you have to be
more
careful with cold air than we do in Louisiana. hi

When I had my house, I had so many holes drilled in my basement
window that the frame looked like a strainer. I ran open wire and used
the same arrangement for my open wire feeder -- I've always liked
open wire -- it permitted so much more than a coax fed antenna
system.

Thanks again for your assistance!



Will listen for you on the air. Good luck.

73 ...Edwin, KD5ZLB

Irv VE6BP
__________________________________________________ __________
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to
return."-da Vinci http://bellsouthpwp2.net/e/d/edwinljohnson

On Mon, 23 Apr 2012 09:20:58 -0600, "Irv Finkleman"
wrote:

The wire will be enough to hold one small bird -- if necessary

Attach a spring to the end of the wire. That will take up the slack
and help absorb the impact of the bird when landing on the wire. If
you don't mind reinstalling the wire occasionally, attach a thin
sewing thread on the end of the wire. When the bird lands, the thread
will break, not the wire.

I checked carefully before I drilled and missed the glass
entirely which is unusual because Murphy lives with me! I've
never seen him, but his influence is always around!

You were lucky. Try not to rely on luck.

I've tested the MFJ-1623 and it will work 80 thru
10M with the wire -- the wire is basically the same as
the 12 foot whip only longer but thinner.

Yep. I would expect it to work with the 12ft antenna it was designed
for. However, you were suggesting a 50ft long antenna (with a tree in
the middle), which might not work.

If it doesn't,
I have another MFJ-949E

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-949E
That's much better.

My carpeting is wall to wall, so the chicken wire
ground would have to be on top of the carpet.

I've snuck flat CAT5 cable under wall to wall carpet for wiring a LAN
(for internet connectivity). A steel wire snake, a carpet kicker, and
an assistant, was all that was needed. Could could do the same with
thin copper wire and never see a lump.

I'm
sure though, that if anyone asked, I would simply
explain 'I'm a Ham' and they would shake their
heads understandingly and not ask any more
foolish questions!

Hint: It's much easier to ruin your reputation than it is to improve
it. Methinks it best to look and act normal for a few weeks, and then
surprise the neighbors, than to do the reverse.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 4/22/2012 5:29 PM, Irv Finkleman wrote:
1. Is there wire with camoflage insulation? (just kidding!)
I plan on using wire with beige or tan colored insulation. I
think sky blue or grey would provide the wrong contract.
Any ideas on this?

2. The far end of the antenna will be hanging from and in
the branches of a tree. I will only be running 5W (if I'm lucky)
and wonder about the voltage at the end of the wire. Will some
heat shrink provide suitable insulation to prevent corona from
starting the bush on fire? Is there a better idea? I will be
using PTFE (Teflon) insulated wire.

3. I'll be running the wire from inside my suite through
a 1/4 inch hole in the aluminum window frame. I was going
to feed it through a plastic straw to prevent chafing and
possible short circuiting. Any suggestions on the best way
through the hole to prevent any problems?

4. Is there a way to tell if the glass in my windows
has some property that greatly attenuates signals?
I'd ask the management but I don't want to trigger them
into realization that future QRM will probably be
emanating from my 'shack'! I plan to work the world
while remaining invisible to those around me. If asked,
I'll just explain that the wire is an antenna for my short wave
receiver!!!!

This is the first time I've had to use a store bought rig!
Until now I've either had modified surplus or burned out
rigs which I rebuilt. I've always been an advocate of
low power, but real QRP is new to me too -- and I equate
it to the difference between dynamiting ponds and fly fishing!
Time will tell! :-) When I became ill I gave away all my
50+ years accumulation of valuable ham radio equipment,
tools, test equipment, and books -- collectively A.K.A.
"Junk". It's fun starting from scratch -- at least my shack
is not a terrible mess -- YET!

Do folks still mail QSL cards? Or can I settle for emailing
a graphic equivalent of my own design? I've been off the air
for a couple years now and think that things may have changed
while I was out of the picture. This is not a big problem as
printing and using the local buro shouldn't be too much of
a problem. The hundreds of rare QSL's coming into my
mailbox my invite unanticipated curiosity from the
management.

Thanks in advance for any ideas you may have. This
is the first time I've run through a metal window frame or
dropped the wire into and among the branches of a tree.

73

Irv VE6BP
Calgary, AB

Just a hair away from being on the air again!







Calgary, is that right? Do you need to allow for snow, ice and wind in
designing your antenna?

I have had good luck while camping, with transparent fishing line at the
end of antenna wire. It has some stretch, is easy to tie to tree limbs,
etc. And a spool will last forever.

Unless you have other ideas for the window hole, put the wire through
and use a hot glue gun to seal the hole. If you can reach both sides of
the hole, do the same on the outside. RTV also works.

Good luck. Paul, KD7HB

Thanks Paul,
I never thought of it, but some monofilament (I'm a sport fisherman) will
fill the bill. Until now
I've always used parachute cord but don't have any anymore. I plan on
sealing the hole at
both ends with RTV. Hopefully the wire I use will stand up to the harsh
Alberta winters,
all my antennas have so far, but if need be I can readily replace the wire
with very
little effort. According to my calculations, which include Murphy's Laws,
the
antenna should stay up until minus 40 degrees, a windstorm, and blowing
snow occurs -- and according to Murphy it will all happen in the middle
of a QSO with some extremely rare DX!

Personally, I have always found Murphy to have been somewhat of
an optimist!

Thanks again for the suggestion,

Irv VE6BP

"Paul Drahn" wrote in message
...
On 4/22/2012 5:29 PM, Irv Finkleman wrote:
1. Is there wire with camoflage insulation? (just kidding!)
I plan on using wire with beige or tan colored insulation. I
think sky blue or grey would provide the wrong contract.
Any ideas on this?

2. The far end of the antenna will be hanging from and in
the branches of a tree. I will only be running 5W (if I'm lucky)
and wonder about the voltage at the end of the wire. Will some
heat shrink provide suitable insulation to prevent corona from
starting the bush on fire? Is there a better idea? I will be
using PTFE (Teflon) insulated wire.

3. I'll be running the wire from inside my suite through
a 1/4 inch hole in the aluminum window frame. I was going
to feed it through a plastic straw to prevent chafing and
possible short circuiting. Any suggestions on the best way
through the hole to prevent any problems?

4. Is there a way to tell if the glass in my windows
has some property that greatly attenuates signals?
I'd ask the management but I don't want to trigger them
into realization that future QRM will probably be
emanating from my 'shack'! I plan to work the world
while remaining invisible to those around me. If asked,
I'll just explain that the wire is an antenna for my short wave
receiver!!!!

This is the first time I've had to use a store bought rig!
Until now I've either had modified surplus or burned out
rigs which I rebuilt. I've always been an advocate of
low power, but real QRP is new to me too -- and I equate
it to the difference between dynamiting ponds and fly fishing!
Time will tell! :-) When I became ill I gave away all my
50+ years accumulation of valuable ham radio equipment,
tools, test equipment, and books -- collectively A.K.A.
"Junk". It's fun starting from scratch -- at least my shack
is not a terrible mess -- YET!

Do folks still mail QSL cards? Or can I settle for emailing
a graphic equivalent of my own design? I've been off the air
for a couple years now and think that things may have changed
while I was out of the picture. This is not a big problem as
printing and using the local buro shouldn't be too much of
a problem. The hundreds of rare QSL's coming into my
mailbox my invite unanticipated curiosity from the
management.

Thanks in advance for any ideas you may have. This
is the first time I've run through a metal window frame or
dropped the wire into and among the branches of a tree.

73

Irv VE6BP
Calgary, AB

Just a hair away from being on the air again!







Calgary, is that right? Do you need to allow for snow, ice and wind in
designing your antenna?

I have had good luck while camping, with transparent fishing line at the
end of antenna wire. It has some stretch, is easy to tie to tree limbs,
etc. And a spool will last forever.

Unless you have other ideas for the window hole, put the wire through and
use a hot glue gun to seal the hole. If you can reach both sides of the
hole, do the same on the outside. RTV also works.

Good luck. Paul, KD7HB