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On 11/9/2015 7:52 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2015 01:59:06 -0500, rickman wrote: I'm not familiar with automatic tuners that can tune the antenna while in use. The basic benefits of having a remote controller a 1. RF safety and you're not part of the antenna system. 2. A controller is easier to umm.... control. 3. Automatic remote tuning reacts to changes when you're not looking at the VSWR meter. 4. White knuckle tuning is difficult. Let the servos do the work. 5. It's the only effective way to tune a loop mounted on a tall pole, tower, or roof. A remote controller is not an automatic tuner. Automatic implies the controller tunes the resonance while a remote controller is just that, a control to adjust the tuning remotely. I don't see how this could work while transmitting. The tuning needs to be done separately. One of the issues someone pointed out was that the dielectric can heat up from the energy absorbed during transmission. Is an antenna tuner real time in this case? Yes in receive. Probably not in transmit. In receive, you can tune all you want and nothing will explode or catch fire. In transmit, you can easily tune through full power and arc over the tuning capacitor. Auto tuning also goes through the optimum VSWR point several times during the tuning cycle. You transmitter may not like operating into a high VSWR load during tuning. How does an automatic tuner operate? When you mention VSWR, how is that affected by tuning? The solution is to tune at low tranmit power levels. Once the lowest VSWR point is found, you can increase your power. However, that usually prevents you from "tweaking" the tuning at full power, which is what you need to compensate for thermal drift. It's also difficult to tune with any modulation other than CW. I think (not sure) that some controllers have this ability, probably with warnings and disclaimers. I wouldn't trust it. Basically, to make it work requires a VWSR sensor and calculator that works when there's modulation, and a tuning capacitor that can tolerate moving while passing high currents. Arcing and welding the bearing and bushings might be a problem. I crunched some numbers and found 100's of PPM change in tuned frequency due to ambient temperature change over the course of a year for an antenna with an air or vacuum tuning capacitor. I can find ceramic dielectrics that would be lower than this and even in the opposite direction to offset the natural drift. But I can't find this info for PEX. I looked and also didn't find anything. The problem is that you don't find tempco data for plumbing parts that were not intended to be used for RF components. Substances have properties regardless of usage. PEX is not just used for plumbing. It is also used in electrical cables where the dielectric properties are very important. I'm not terribly concerned with the actual value of Er and even the dielectric strength. What is important to me is the temperature coefficient of Er. Again, I think you might be trying to solve a problem that has already been solved by automatic tuning (which you need anyway). Unless you plan to transmit endlessly, you can simply press the tune button on the controller a few times per hour, and be done with trying to temperature stabilize the loop. That's not how it was presented to me. The suggestion was that tuning will change during transmission due to heating from the power being transmitted. Of course that depends on not just the Er dependance with temperature, but also the dissipation factor. So perhaps with material of a sufficiently low DF the Er dependence on temperature is not so important. Interesting, but nearly every discussion I find on loop antennas has a lot of fluff content. RF is magic. It's difficult to explain some things. You mean people don't understand it. Anything that is understood can be explained. If you don't understand it, you can't explain it. Even so, that's not fluff. Fluff is when things are described in non-rigorous ways like, "solder joints result in sub-optimum performance". Hard to prove or disprove. Clearly they will have some effect even if that effect too small to be measurable. "Sub-optimal" is pretty meaningless in general until you define the details of "optimal". Here is some from this discussion, "By the way PEX is cross linked polyethylene and is superior to using sheet Teflon in this instance." Unless the reason is stated for considering PEX superior to Teflon, I haven't learned anything. I'm certainly not going to take an anonymous person's word for it. The world is divided between practitioners of theory and of practice. Those who favor can explain anything, but can't build anything that actually works. Those that favor practice tend to build strange contraptions that they can't explain. That's also probably the main source of what you call "fluff". Sometimes, I run into a theoretician that knows which end of the soldering iron to grab, but they are rare. For the record, I'm a practitioner of practice, trial-n-error, and magic. I have difficulty explaining some things, and I think you've seen my horrid math. I think the world is *not* divided at all, rather there is a range of abilities on both theory and practice scales with independent values. Fluff is fluff no mater what you are good at. If someone can't recognize fluff, then they are missing a lot of understanding. I'm used to seeing this sort of lack of rigor in many pursuits, cars, sports, etc. I've also seen it in safety. Lots of people use seat of the pants concepts in analyzing safety. It shows up very easily when you simply ask questions about the source of the info. Same with the amateur design of antennas. Lots of talk, but very little data in most cases, like with solder joints. I'm talking about water impacts. Humidity and rain soak into materials. Some by absorption, others by infiltration into micro-cracks. I saw some materials that talked about water trees in PEX. This is not a universal problem in all plastics. I come from the marine radio part of the business. Water and corrosion are key parts of the marine radio problem. Many materials are hygroscopic and will absorb moisture. Apply some RF and the water boils out, as in a microwave oven. Do it too fast, and the material can crack. Of course, the tuning will change. Lots of info on plastics selection for minimal water absorption found online. For example: http://www.curbellplastics.com/technical-resources/pdf/water-absorption-plastics.pdf Polypropylene would be my first choice for minimal water absorption. However, it requires UV protection, which for RF applications means some kind of conformal coating. (Adding carbon black is a bad idea as it causes heating problems). Plastic in a tuning capacitor should be protected from the elements in other ways. Conformal coating is not really needed if the entire capacitor is in a box, even a transparent plastic box as long as it blocks the UV. Most plastics do. There are simple facts about silver that make it only very slightly better than copper for RF circuits. I know that you can increase the size of the conductor by less than 5% as an alternative to using silver plating if the electrical characteristics are the goal. Can you explain why silver is required? The numbers don't show it. Antennas are mounted outdoors where exposed copper is an invitation to corrosion. If one must protect the copper with something, why not use silver, which also improves its RF characteristics? My solution would be to use aluminum instead. Copper is not really superior in a meaningful way and costs a lot more. My magloop nightmare come true: http://www.mixw.co.uk/MagLoop/magloopF.htm I don't get your point here. -- Rick |
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