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#12
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wrote:
One of the things I have learned about autotuners is that they all seem to have a higher insertion loss than a good manual tuner. The lowest loss is no tuner at all! Let the transmission line do the tuning. How to accomplish that is covered on my web page under, "No- Tuner All-HF-Band Antenna". -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp |
#13
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Cecil, what tests, measurements or calculations have you made to satisfy
yourself that loss in the feedline is no greater than in the tuner the feedline replaces? ---- Reg. ======================================== "Cecil Moore" wrote How to accomplish that is covered on my web page under, "No- Tuner All-HF-Band Antenna". |
#14
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Jim,
with respect to keeping the system all balanced and running the balanced line through portals along with metal objects, you can simply make a length of shielded balanced line using two pieces of coax with the braids connected at each end and connected to shack ground on the inside end. It becomes a shielded balanced line of twice the coax Zo and can be directly inserted into the transmission path with no problems. Check out "Some Aspects of Series and Parallel Coaxial Cable Assemblies" at Cebik's site, in particular the "Series-Connected Coax" section http://www.cebik.com/spcoax.html 73, John wrote in message oups.com... Greetings I have been using balanced line for many years and am convinced of its virtues, particularly since I use a single tuned doublet for multiband use. The question I have never been able to get a clear answer on is this; How critical is it for the balanced line to avoid metal objects? Specifically, I now use about 6 feet of LMR 400 coax from a Radio Works remote balun into my shack where I tune the antenna from either a manual tuner or the auto tuner in my FT920. In order for me to run the twinlead all the way into the shack there will be about 18 inches where the twinlead will share a portal that I constructed to get my grounds and other cables in and out of the shack. Now I always thought this was a problem area for twinlead, hence the use of the remote balun. I am considering the purchase of a new tuner and was thinking I would like a Palstar Balanced Tuner. But can I use it? Would I be better of with a T match and a short length of coax to a balun, or would a balanced tuner be better even with the 18" or so of twinlead coming in close proximity to the other conductors? I really can not bring the twinlead in without it crossing paths as I desribed. Is a balanced tuner all that better than a T match anyway in terms of antenna performance or loss? What say? Thanks |
#15
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John
I read that link with great interest. Some years back I saw an article where twinlead was constructed out of coaxial cable for the purpose of running it through environments that would be bad news for normal twinlead. I thought it was rather stupid because the loss on such a line would defeat the whole purpose of using twinlead. However, for my purposes where I just need a couple of feet or less to be in close contact with other cableing, this might work. The question is, why then are remote baluns promoted as the solution to this common problem? And, is the coax twinlead and a balnaced tuner a better choice than a short lenght of very low loss coax, a good current balun, and a T match? I am not trying to be difficult, I just want to set this up as efficinetly as possible. This might actually be the key! I just need to know if I should go with a short section of coaxial twinlead and a balanced tuner...or leave well enough alone. |
#16
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John
I read that link with great interest. Some years back I saw an article where twinlead was constructed out of coaxial cable for the purpose of running it through environments that would be bad news for normal twinlead. I thought it was rather stupid because the loss on such a line would defeat the whole purpose of using twinlead. However, for my purposes where I just need a couple of feet or less to be in close contact with other cableing, this might work. The question is, why then are remote baluns promoted as the solution to this common problem? And, is the coax twinlead and a balnaced tuner a better choice than a short lenght of very low loss coax, a good current balun, and a T match? I am not trying to be difficult, I just want to set this up as efficinetly as possible. This might actually be the key! I just need to know if I should go with a short section of coaxial twinlead and a balanced tuner...or leave well enough alone. Great info! Thanks! |
#17
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I am not trying to be difficult,
=========================== There's no need to try - you don't appear to have any problems. Where did you receive your training? |
#18
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Now that was helpful !
Maybe you should sign up with the local radio club as an Elmer? No one is forceing you to read my posts or help me. Thanks anyway. |
#19
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On 7 Dec 2004 09:56:10 -0800, "
wrote: Now that was helpful ! Maybe you should sign up with the local radio club as an Elmer? No one is forceing you to read my posts or help me. Thanks anyway. Jim, I believe you mentioned you were considering the Palstar balanced tuner -- I looked at the "inside" picture of it, and the variable inductors look suspiciously exactly alike the variable inductor in my mfj-989c unit. I'm not saying that's good or bad -- just thought I'd mention it... Bob k5qwg |
#20
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Thanks for that info..I would consider that as "bad"..Hi.
But the Palstar reviews that I have read all seem to be quite favorable. I am now using an old Daiwa tuner that does a real nice job, but it is old and uses small 365 mmf broadcast type variables, a dainty looking coil, and cheap push switches for antenna selection. The cross needle metering seems to be OK. I just want to upgrade to something built a bit better, and I am not fond of Mighty Fine Junk ( no offense intended ), even if they are the most popular in the world. I probably will go for a Palstar, but I can't decide on a T match model or the balanced tuner. Thanks for the reply. Jim |
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