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Old September 24th 03, 07:17 PM
Roy Lewallen
 
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Default Parallel runs of coax to antenna

Should work fine, as long as you can keep the water out of it. People
using larger coax with similar construction have reported it to be near
impossible to keep water out. And if water gets in, the loss will go
_way_ up.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Ken wrote:
I was given a 1,000 foot spool of RG-62 and was trying to think of a use
for it. I'd like to put up a 1/4 40 meter vertical and feed it through
parallel runs of RG-62. Has anyone ever done this? I have the antenna,
coax and radial wire, so I don't plan on buying anything else.

Ken


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Old September 24th 03, 09:10 PM
Roy Lewallen
 
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In that case, I have yet another caution. A tupperware container will
become brittle from exposure to the sun, and crack. How long this takes
depends on the intensity of the sun. Here in Oregon's Willamette Valley,
it'll last a couple of years or so. I'll bet one wouldn't last six
months in Denver.

I'm right now in the process of accumulating parts to rebuild my antenna
switch box, formerly housed in plastic containers, into an ammo box.

You might be able to seal the cable end adequately with RTV. I'll bet
some of the folks who've used Belden 9913 (similar construction to
RG-62) have some suggestions. It's been discussed from time to time on
this newsgroup, so a google search on 9913 in this group would bring you
more information.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Ken wrote:
Roy Lewallen wrote:


Should work fine, as long as you can keep the water out of it. People
using larger coax with similar construction have reported it to be near
impossible to keep water out. And if water gets in, the loss will go
_way_ up.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL



Thanks Roy, I planned on using a small tupperware container at the antenna
end.


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Old September 24th 03, 10:32 PM
Crazy George
 
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Roy:

You will find that a yellow Prestone anti-freeze bottle will last at least 5
years, and likely 10. We get plenty of UV here in S. Texas, and I have
found them to have the highest survivability of any plastic except Lexan.
My 160 meter tuner is in one, as I didn't want to use a small coil or a
large metallic enclosure. I use 2, cut the top off of one and invert it,
and then use the inverted bottom from another as a press fit closure. No
fasteners needed, although I usually put a couple 6-32 screws through the
resulting double flange for good measure. The old red bottles were equally
as good, but now hard to find.


And for Ken, the best way to seal the end of that psuedo air line is some of
the shrink tubing with the filler adhesive inside. Then point the sealed
end DOWN.
--
Crazy George
Remove NO and SPAM from return address
"Roy Lewallen" wrote in message
...
In that case, I have yet another caution. A tupperware container will
become brittle from exposure to the sun, and crack. How long this takes
depends on the intensity of the sun. Here in Oregon's Willamette Valley,
it'll last a couple of years or so. I'll bet one wouldn't last six
months in Denver.

I'm right now in the process of accumulating parts to rebuild my antenna
switch box, formerly housed in plastic containers, into an ammo box.

You might be able to seal the cable end adequately with RTV. I'll bet
some of the folks who've used Belden 9913 (similar construction to
RG-62) have some suggestions. It's been discussed from time to time on
this newsgroup, so a google search on 9913 in this group would bring you
more information.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Ken wrote:
Roy Lewallen wrote:


Should work fine, as long as you can keep the water out of it. People
using larger coax with similar construction have reported it to be near
impossible to keep water out. And if water gets in, the loss will go
_way_ up.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL



Thanks Roy, I planned on using a small tupperware container at the

antenna
end.




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Old September 25th 03, 07:44 AM
Roy Lewallen
 
Posts: n/a
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Thanks for the tip. That's a good low-cost solution, and anything
lasting 5-10 years there should last nearly a lifetime here. I've also
found that you can get plastic electrical boxes intended for outdoor use
at reasonable cost at home supply stores. They'd be a good choice if
something sturdier is needed, and they should put up with the sun ok.
Some plastics are definitely much better than others, and a lot of 'em
don't last long at all.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Crazy George wrote:
Roy:

You will find that a yellow Prestone anti-freeze bottle will last at least 5
years, and likely 10. We get plenty of UV here in S. Texas, and I have
found them to have the highest survivability of any plastic except Lexan.
My 160 meter tuner is in one, as I didn't want to use a small coil or a
large metallic enclosure. I use 2, cut the top off of one and invert it,
and then use the inverted bottom from another as a press fit closure. No
fasteners needed, although I usually put a couple 6-32 screws through the
resulting double flange for good measure. The old red bottles were equally
as good, but now hard to find.


And for Ken, the best way to seal the end of that psuedo air line is some of
the shrink tubing with the filler adhesive inside. Then point the sealed
end DOWN.
--
Crazy George


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Old September 25th 03, 06:19 PM
Roger Halstead
 
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Default

On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 16:32:54 -0500, "Crazy George"
wrote:

Roy:

You will find that a yellow Prestone anti-freeze bottle will last at least 5
years, and likely 10. We get plenty of UV here in S. Texas, and I have
found them to have the highest survivability of any plastic except Lexan.
My 160 meter tuner is in one, as I didn't want to use a small coil or a
large metallic enclosure. I use 2, cut the top off of one and invert it,
and then use the inverted bottom from another as a press fit closure. No
fasteners needed, although I usually put a couple 6-32 screws through the
resulting double flange for good measure. The old red bottles were equally
as good, but now hard to find.


We have to make sure the things are well sealed here in southern
Michigan or they get filled with Yellow Jackets.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)


And for Ken, the best way to seal the end of that psuedo air line is some of
the shrink tubing with the filler adhesive inside. Then point the sealed
end DOWN.




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Old September 26th 03, 04:28 AM
Crazy George
 
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We have similar problems here, Roger, but that is the point of using the
second bottom, which is a press fit inside the bead of the other container.
This leaves a slight recess for controls. If you want no recess, then put
the cut off bottom in right side up, and you end up with essentially a
double ended sealed (except for the seam between pieces) bottle. Breathes
just enough to equalize pressure changes, seam isn't big enough for most
insects. Tiny ants might squeeze in, but insecticide could fix that.

--
Crazy George
Remove NO and SPAM from return address


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Old September 26th 03, 06:31 AM
Roger Halstead
 
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Default

On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 22:28:58 -0500, "Crazy George"
wrote:

We have similar problems here, Roger, but that is the point of using the
second bottom, which is a press fit inside the bead of the other container.
This leaves a slight recess for controls. If you want no recess, then put
the cut off bottom in right side up, and you end up with essentially a
double ended sealed (except for the seam between pieces) bottle. Breathes
just enough to equalize pressure changes, seam isn't big enough for most
insects. Tiny ants might squeeze in, but insecticide could fix that.


Just throw in a single moth ball. :-))

Yellow Jackets have turned out to be a real problem over the past two
years. Last year I destroyed over 40 nests on our 200 X 200 foot
lot. I really don't know how many thousands I've done in, but it's a
lot.

We had them get under the siding just under the peak of the roof on
the sough end. They built a nest so large it popped the siding loose
and it had to be re-nailed.

About a month ago I went out to move some sections of a C-band
satellite dish. I had them stacked 2 by 2. I had hauled away several
pair when I reached for one and had it slip out of my grip as I went
to pull it away from the one under it. All of a sudden there was a
cloud of Yellow Jackets coming out from around each side. I beat a
hasty retreat (full tilt), but unfortunately I was building the base
for a small outbuilding right behind where I was standing. I had 7
2 X 6s running North and south with the top edges about 14 inches off
the ground. I was headed west. I made it all the way through with
just one barked shin and never fell. I waited till dark, set up some
halogen lights to blind them and then squirted in some wasp and hornet
killer. The kind that shoots a solid stream. When I got the dish
section out I found a nest over a foot across in there.
(and...I never got stung which is a lot better than last summer with a
total of 4. Three yellow Jackets and one wasp got me.)

Actually throwing a few mothballs around the attic insulation should
keep out the bees as well.

BTW, I'm probably going to use something similar to house a matching
network as I'm either going to put up an inverted L, or shunt feed the
tower for 160.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)
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