How do I apply anti-oxidant grease to the junction of two metals? Do I put
a dab of grease on each mating surface then clamp the metals together, or,
clamp the metals together and smear grease on the outside?

I have a Yaesu FT-857D and an ATAS-120 installed in my truck -- I have had a
problem with the ATAS-120 -- my FT-857D would not recognize the antenna.
After checking every possible problem, I made a discovery.

Using my ohmmeter, I found there was continuity between the antenna mount
and the body and frame of the truck, but, there was no continuity between
the antenna connector and the antenna mount. The connecter is a VHF Type M
mount; the threaded portion of the connector passes through a hole in the
antenna mount and is tightened to the mount with a big nut. There was no
connection between the connector and the antenna mount, thus, there was no
connection between the outer shell of the antenna connector and the truck
frame and body.

I removed the big nut that holds the antenna connector and used emery paper
to sand the surface of the nut that contacts the mount, and, I sanded the
part of the mount that contacts the nut. When I re-installed the antenna
connector, the antenna works perfectly. The problem was a bad ground
between the antenna connector and the antenna mount because of oxidation on
the two mating surfaces.

I have found a source of anti-oxidant grease that's used on electrical
connections and I will put this stuff on the connector-mount junction to
prevent further oxidation. Here's the question: Do I loosen the nut and
put grease between the nut and the antenna mount -- similar to putting
thermal grease between a heat sink and the surface of a transistor -- or, do
I tighten the nut and smear grease on the outside, not on the mating
surfaces? I suspect I should put the grease on the mating surfaces between
the nut and the mount -- loosen the nut, smear on grease, tighten the nut.

Thanks.

Joe S. wrote:
(snip)
I have found a source of anti-oxidant grease that's used on electrical
connections and I will put this stuff on the connector-mount junction to
prevent further oxidation. Here's the question: Do I loosen the nut and
put grease between the nut and the antenna mount -- similar to putting
thermal grease between a heat sink and the surface of a transistor -- or, do
I tighten the nut and smear grease on the outside, not on the mating
surfaces? I suspect I should put the grease on the mating surfaces between
the nut and the mount -- loosen the nut, smear on grease, tighten the nut.

The anytioxidant has to be in intimate contact with the metal surfaces
before they are clamped together. Here is a site that tells how to
use one version, Penetrox-A. The details are about 1/4 of the way down:
http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum/alreduce.htm#1A

"John Popelish" wrote in message
...
Joe S. wrote:
(snip)
I have found a source of anti-oxidant grease that's used on electrical
connections and I will put this stuff on the connector-mount junction to
prevent further oxidation. Here's the question: Do I loosen the nut and
put grease between the nut and the antenna mount -- similar to putting
thermal grease between a heat sink and the surface of a transistor -- or,
do I tighten the nut and smear grease on the outside, not on the mating
surfaces? I suspect I should put the grease on the mating surfaces
between the nut and the mount -- loosen the nut, smear on grease, tighten
the nut.

The anytioxidant has to be in intimate contact with the metal surfaces
before they are clamped together. Here is a site that tells how to use
one version, Penetrox-A. The details are about 1/4 of the way down:
http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum/alreduce.htm#1A

John:

THANK YOU!!! Exactly what I needed -- I don't know how you found that -- I
spent an hour searching with Google for various combinations of
anti-oxidant, antioxidant, applying, application, etc., etc.

I'll pick up a tube/can/jug/whatever of Penetrox tomorrow at my local
electrical supply house, disassemble both antenna mounts and connectors,
"abrade" them thoroughly, and slap the Penetrox onto every metal-to-metal
junction.

Thanks again.

73,
Joe

Joe S. wrote:

John:

THANK YOU!!! Exactly what I needed -- I don't know how you found that -- I
spent an hour searching with Google for various combinations of
anti-oxidant, antioxidant, applying, application, etc., etc.

It took a few tries, including adding the words [aluminum copper
electrical] to reduce the diet pill adds.

I'll pick up a tube/can/jug/whatever of Penetrox tomorrow at my local
electrical supply house, disassemble both antenna mounts and connectors,
"abrade" them thoroughly, and slap the Penetrox onto every metal-to-metal
junction.

For aluminum, (which oxidizes almost instantly in contact with air)
they recommend coating the surface and then doing the final abrading,
so the fresh surface has no contact, at all, with air, before the
joint is assembled. It sounds a little like trying to make a dry
joint under water.

"John Popelish" wrote in message
...
Joe S. wrote:

John:

THANK YOU!!! Exactly what I needed -- I don't know how you found that --
I spent an hour searching with Google for various combinations of
anti-oxidant, antioxidant, applying, application, etc., etc.

It took a few tries, including adding the words [aluminum copper
electrical] to reduce the diet pill adds.

I'll pick up a tube/can/jug/whatever of Penetrox tomorrow at my local
electrical supply house, disassemble both antenna mounts and connectors,
"abrade" them thoroughly, and slap the Penetrox onto every metal-to-metal
junction.

For aluminum, (which oxidizes almost instantly in contact with air) they
recommend coating the surface and then doing the final abrading, so the
fresh surface has no contact, at all, with air, before the joint is
assembled. It sounds a little like trying to make a dry joint under
water.

Thanks for pointing out that procedure. I noticed that in the instructions
you sent and I figured the rapid oxidation of aluminum was the reason.

I am a big fan of Penetrox-A. It is sold in a small squeeze-bottle that is
just right for most tasks. It is also a good anti-galling material to use
when screwing SS to anything.

73 Mac N8TT

--
J. Mc Laughlin; Michigan U.S.A.
Home:
"John Popelish" wrote in message
...
Joe S. wrote:
(snip)
I have found a source of anti-oxidant grease that's used on electrical
connections and I will put this stuff on the connector-mount junction to
prevent further oxidation. Here's the question: Do I loosen the nut
and
put grease between the nut and the antenna mount -- similar to putting
thermal grease between a heat sink and the surface of a transistor --
or, do
I tighten the nut and smear grease on the outside, not on the mating
surfaces? I suspect I should put the grease on the mating surfaces
between
the nut and the mount -- loosen the nut, smear on grease, tighten the
nut.

The anytioxidant has to be in intimate contact with the metal surfaces
before they are clamped together. Here is a site that tells how to
use one version, Penetrox-A. The details are about 1/4 of the way down:
http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum/alreduce.htm#1A

Another product that works very well is Lawson 59933 Copper Anti-Seize
Anti-Corrosion Compound
http://webapp.lawsonproducts.com/web...?itemNum=59933
This is the same product that comes with a Butternut vertical antenna. It
consists of a synthetic grease base, copper, thickener, and rust inhibitor.
It can withstand temperature ranges from -65°F to 1800°F, which should be
adequate for most ham applications.

John, N9JG

"J. Mc Laughlin" wrote in message
...
I am a big fan of Penetrox-A. It is sold in a small squeeze-bottle that is
just right for most tasks. It is also a good anti-galling material to use
when screwing SS to anything.

Well that figures.... just like so many on line places to buy things they
have everything there but the PRICE!!!
They expect me to return or fart around trying to get some one to put a
price on everything I want to buy?


"John, N9JG" wrote in message
news:CF2Hf.548024$084.539297@attbi_s22...
Another product that works very well is Lawson 59933 Copper Anti-Seize
Anti-Corrosion Compound
http://webapp.lawsonproducts.com/web...?itemNum=59933
This is the same product that comes with a Butternut vertical antenna. It
consists of a synthetic grease base, copper, thickener, and rust
inhibitor. It can withstand temperature ranges from -65°F to 1800°F, which
should be adequate for most ham applications.

John, N9JG

"J. Mc Laughlin" wrote in message
...
I am a big fan of Penetrox-A. It is sold in a small squeeze-bottle that
is
just right for most tasks. It is also a good anti-galling material to
use
when screwing SS to anything.

I did buy a can of the stuff from them, but note that a can will last a
lifetime for you and ten of your friends. Just fill out the order on the web
page, and one of their sales persons will phone you and give you the price.
If you don't like the price, you don't have to complete the order. As I
recall, it may have been about $25 for quantity one. The call back and the
shipment were both done promptly.

"Mr Fed UP" wrote in message
.. .
Well that figures.... just like so many on line places to buy things they
have everything there but the PRICE!!!
They expect me to return or fart around trying to get some one to put a
price on everything I want to buy?


"John, N9JG" wrote in message
news:CF2Hf.548024$084.539297@attbi_s22...
Another product that works very well is Lawson 59933 Copper Anti-Seize
Anti-Corrosion Compound
http://webapp.lawsonproducts.com/web...?itemNum=59933
This is the same product that comes with a Butternut vertical antenna. It
consists of a synthetic grease base, copper, thickener, and rust
inhibitor. It can withstand temperature ranges from -65°F to 1800°F,
which should be adequate for most ham applications.

John, N9JG

"J. Mc Laughlin" wrote in message
...
I am a big fan of Penetrox-A. It is sold in a small squeeze-bottle that
is
just right for most tasks. It is also a good anti-galling material to
use
when screwing SS to anything.

Ok thanks. That looks affordable then. With out prices its hard to tell
these days.
I have an ol AR-10 Ringo that I used back in the 90's for 10 m DXCC and has
been in storage for several years. I think putting some compound on the
joints
may make it work as new again. I been delaying this task so I could get it
up and have it work right the first time.

Thanks 73 K4TWO Gary




"John, N9JG" wrote in message
news:XRkHf.760597$x96.380669@attbi_s72...
I did buy a can of the stuff from them, but note that a can will last a
lifetime for you and ten of your friends. Just fill out the order on the
web page, and one of their sales persons will phone you and give you the
price. If you don't like the price, you don't have to complete the order.
As I recall, it may have been about $25 for quantity one. The call back and
the shipment were both done promptly.

"Mr Fed UP" wrote in message
.. .
Well that figures.... just like so many on line places to buy things they
have everything there but the PRICE!!!
They expect me to return or fart around trying to get some one to put a
price on everything I want to buy?


"John, N9JG" wrote in message
news:CF2Hf.548024$084.539297@attbi_s22...
Another product that works very well is Lawson 59933 Copper Anti-Seize
Anti-Corrosion Compound
http://webapp.lawsonproducts.com/web...?itemNum=59933
This is the same product that comes with a Butternut vertical antenna.
It consists of a synthetic grease base, copper, thickener, and rust
inhibitor. It can withstand temperature ranges from -65°F to 1800°F,
which should be adequate for most ham applications.

John, N9JG

"J. Mc Laughlin" wrote in message
...
I am a big fan of Penetrox-A. It is sold in a small squeeze-bottle that
is
just right for most tasks. It is also a good anti-galling material to
use
when screwing SS to anything.