I have 50 feet of rohn tower and want to put it up but
don't want to direction stick it into a concrete base, i'd
rather have either a hinge plate or a 5- foot section
(preferably) to put into the concrete, for I hear if you
direction shove tower into concrete it'll rust around the
bottom until it completely disintegrates where it makes
contact with the concrete (for whatever reason)....

does anybody know a retailer that sells these things?
I can't find them in the AES mag....

Clint
KB5ZHT

--


------

It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and
clueless critics of this country are only now beginning
to realize, "Hey, that's my train!"

--Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies
are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing
"delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving
we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding...

--------

45 Communist Goals for America

http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm

--

Clint,
Sounds like you're looking for a hinged base plate. Rohn
makes/made them, probably all tower manufacturers do. You
might try "Texas Towers", they may have one in stock, or any
of a number of others who handle Rohn products.
'Doc

"Clint" rattlehead at computron dot net wrote in message
...
I have 50 feet of rohn tower and want to put it up but
don't want to direction stick it into a concrete base, i'd
rather have either a hinge plate or a 5- foot section
(preferably) to put into the concrete, for I hear if you
direction shove tower into concrete it'll rust around the
bottom until it completely disintegrates where it makes
contact with the concrete (for whatever reason)....

does anybody know a retailer that sells these things?
I can't find them in the AES mag....

Clint
KB5ZHT


Clint

Rohn makes both fixed and hinged baseplates for the 25G
tower sections.

Look for the BPC25G and BPH25G items in the Texas Tower
website:

http://www.texastowers.com/rohn25g.htm

Pete
--


------

It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and
clueless critics of this country are only now beginning
to realize, "Hey, that's my train!"

--Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies
are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing
"delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving
we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding...

--------

45 Communist Goals for America

http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm

--

Clint
Just to set the record straight and try to put the brakes on another urban
legend.

I can tell you from experience that the experience you describe is not
common, and when it does occur, it is due to incompetent installation. Like
pouring the cement first and then adding the tower, as I believe you intend.

I have some Rohn 25G which is 40+ years old. It was stuck in cement for 25
years in the first location, until I torched it off to move it. The part
that was still in the cement was still sound and intact.

It is now in the second location, where it has been for 15+ years, and no
rust has appeared at the point where it goes into the cement.

There are two things necessary to get this result.
1. The top of the cement must be crowned so water doesn't form a puddle,
but drains off.
2. The bottom of the hole must have a layer of sand for the inside of the
legs to drain into so they don't get plugged with cement and hold water.
Tape over the unused bolt holes is a good idea as part of that.
And, to be complete, prepare the hole, add the sand, locate the tower in the
hole using temporary braces above ground, then pour the cement.

A number of years back, I removed a surplus Rohn 45G tower which had been in
place for about 15 years, with a very small (~200#) cement base containing
no reinforcing. The cement was poured in a shallow limestone cavity, and I
was able to lift it out and then break the cement away from the tower legs.
The galvanizing inside the cement was over 90% intact, but the bare places
had only a surface coating of rust, and I expect it would have stood at
least another 15 years before any significant corrosion damage occurred.
The cement was not crowned, as the installation was temporary, and that
likely contributed to the corrosion. That and the limestone held water
also. +

To make a permanent (60 years +) installation, coat the part of the tower
which is to go in the cement with bituminous cement and wrap that with
corrosion resistant tape. This is the technique which was used to put
galvanized conduit in cement below grade for years before PVC was approved.
It is also recommended for guy anchor rods. There is a long documented
history of the success of this method in the electrical industry. It is
still used in some locations, and the materials are still sold by electrical
suppliers.

--
Crazy George
Remove N O and S P A M imbedded in return address
"Clint" rattlehead at computron dot net wrote in message
...
I have 50 feet of rohn tower and want to put it up but
don't want to direction stick it into a concrete base, i'd
rather have either a hinge plate or a 5- foot section
(preferably) to put into the concrete, for I hear if you
direction shove tower into concrete it'll rust around the
bottom until it completely disintegrates where it makes
contact with the concrete (for whatever reason)....

does anybody know a retailer that sells these things?
I can't find them in the AES mag....

Clint
KB5ZHT

--


------

It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and
clueless critics of this country are only now beginning
to realize, "Hey, that's my train!"

--Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies
are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing
"delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving
we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding...

--------

45 Communist Goals for America

http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm

--

Well, if that's the case then I won't worry about it.. i'll follow
you're advice and just put a sub-base layer of sand down under
the concrete pad. It'll save lots of money, time and trouble for
sure.

Clint
KB5ZHT

"Crazy George" wrote in message
...
Clint
Just to set the record straight and try to put the brakes on another urban
legend.

I can tell you from experience that the experience you describe is not
common, and when it does occur, it is due to incompetent installation.
Like
pouring the cement first and then adding the tower, as I believe you
intend.

I have some Rohn 25G which is 40+ years old. It was stuck in cement for
25
years in the first location, until I torched it off to move it. The part
that was still in the cement was still sound and intact.

It is now in the second location, where it has been for 15+ years, and no
rust has appeared at the point where it goes into the cement.

There are two things necessary to get this result.
1. The top of the cement must be crowned so water doesn't form a puddle,
but drains off.
2. The bottom of the hole must have a layer of sand for the inside of the
legs to drain into so they don't get plugged with cement and hold water.
Tape over the unused bolt holes is a good idea as part of that.
And, to be complete, prepare the hole, add the sand, locate the tower in
the
hole using temporary braces above ground, then pour the cement.

A number of years back, I removed a surplus Rohn 45G tower which had been
in
place for about 15 years, with a very small (~200#) cement base containing
no reinforcing. The cement was poured in a shallow limestone cavity, and
I
was able to lift it out and then break the cement away from the tower
legs.
The galvanizing inside the cement was over 90% intact, but the bare places
had only a surface coating of rust, and I expect it would have stood at
least another 15 years before any significant corrosion damage occurred.
The cement was not crowned, as the installation was temporary, and that
likely contributed to the corrosion. That and the limestone held water
also. +

To make a permanent (60 years +) installation, coat the part of the tower
which is to go in the cement with bituminous cement and wrap that with
corrosion resistant tape. This is the technique which was used to put
galvanized conduit in cement below grade for years before PVC was
approved.
It is also recommended for guy anchor rods. There is a long documented
history of the success of this method in the electrical industry. It is
still used in some locations, and the materials are still sold by
electrical
suppliers.

--
Crazy George
Remove N O and S P A M imbedded in return address
"Clint" rattlehead at computron dot net wrote in message
...
I have 50 feet of rohn tower and want to put it up but
don't want to direction stick it into a concrete base, i'd
rather have either a hinge plate or a 5- foot section
(preferably) to put into the concrete, for I hear if you
direction shove tower into concrete it'll rust around the
bottom until it completely disintegrates where it makes
contact with the concrete (for whatever reason)....

does anybody know a retailer that sells these things?
I can't find them in the AES mag....

Clint
KB5ZHT

--


------

It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and
clueless critics of this country are only now beginning
to realize, "Hey, that's my train!"

--Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies
are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing
"delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving
we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding...

--------

45 Communist Goals for America

http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm

--





--


------

It's as if the diplomatic train has left the station and
clueless critics of this country are only now beginning
to realize, "Hey, that's my train!"

--Neil Cavuto, describing how america's enemies
are now suddenly congradulating us and expressing
"delight" at the capture of saddam, finally proving
we're doing the right thing and that we're succeeding...

--------

45 Communist Goals for America

http://www.uhuh.com/nwo/communism/comgoals.htm

--

"Bob Nielsen" wrote in message
...
I believe gravel is preferable to sand. If the sand becomes wet
it might block the end of the tube preventing adequate drainage, thus
defeating the purpose.

Bob, N7XY

OH, damn good advice.... how about pea gravel, or maybe 3/8" rock? it would
allow
drainage very well (many french drains and other water drain systems use pea
gravel or
small rock to allow water passage or filtration)....

Clint
KB5ZHT

Well, if that's the case then I won't worry about it.. i'll follow
you're advice and just put a sub-base layer of sand down under
the concrete pad. It'll save lots of money, time and trouble for
sure.

You can go here and see what Rohn recommends for the base and guys .

http://www.rohnnet.com/

Look under the Online Catalog and then under the GT series.

Looks like they recommend about 6 inches of compacted sand and gravel with
about 2 inches of the legs put into the sand/gravel. Then a concrete base
about 4 feet in each direction.

Clint:

When you pour the cement and put the crown on the top, make it at least
3/4"-1" higher in the center as it will probably drop some in the center as
it cures. This is why so much "professional" cement flat work holds water
in the middle. No one teaches the proper method of cement installation any
longer.

--
Crazy George

On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 21:37:36 -0600, "Crazy George"
wrote:

|Clint:
|
|When you pour the cement and put the crown on the top, make it at least
|3/4"-1" higher in the center as it will probably drop some in the center as
|it cures. This is why so much "professional" cement flat work holds water
|in the middle. No one teaches the proper method of cement installation any
|longer.

Sorry George, I can't help myself.g

"Cement" is the stuff that holds the aggregate in "concrete" together
and concrete is "placed," not "poured".

Wes:

You are technically correct about the cement/concrete names, but I believe
you will find the previously incorrect "cement" usage for concrete is now
accepted because it has become the norm. Like the long term result of the
incorrect use of "dumb". It is rarely used correctly these days.

And, placing is certainly correct for flatwork, but I've never heard of a
"continuous place" for large continuous pours like major buildings and other
structures. How many times did I hear that during the post-mortems of the
WTC construction, for example?

--
Crazy George
Remove N O and S P A M imbedded in return address
"Wes Stewart" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 21:37:36 -0600, "Crazy George"
wrote:

|Clint:
|
|When you pour the cement and put the crown on the top, make it at least
|3/4"-1" higher in the center as it will probably drop some in the center
as
|it cures. This is why so much "professional" cement flat work holds
water
|in the middle. No one teaches the proper method of cement installation
any
|longer.

Sorry George, I can't help myself.g

"Cement" is the stuff that holds the aggregate in "concrete" together
and concrete is "placed," not "poured".