I plan on getting a basic "learning transceiver" off eBay to begin
with, then after I know what options I need and learn more, I'll get a
new one.

What features will I need to be able to start to do low-power CW, and
is there a preferred brand or model to look for?


Low-power operation is referred to in the amateur radio lexicon as
"QRP." If you search on that keyword in Google or Yahoo, you'll find
that there are many different options available to you in that category.

You could purchase a QRP CW transceiver such as the Heathkit HW-8 or HW-
9. They're easy to operate, fairly low-tech. But they are capable of
operating CW and ONLY CW. If you get the itch to move on to SSB or
digital modes, you'll need a different radio. Also, it's ONLY able to
operate on HF, so if you decide you want to work some of the VHF or UHF
bands, it won't go there.

Your best bet would be to get a transceiver that can accomodate multiple
modes. My first rig was a Kenwood TS-520, a very forgiving radio that
offered CW and SSB operation on the 80, 40, 20, 15 and 10 meter bands.
It was all solid-state except for the final amplifier, which used tubes.
You can find these on the used market nowadays for under $200 in decent
condition. It operates at around 100 watts, but can be cranked down to
very low power levels if you need to. (One of the rules in Amateur
Radio is to use only the power output necessary to carry on the contact,
and 100 watts is often overkill.)

My personal preference these days is the Yaesu FT-817 transceiver. It
only puts out five watts, but it supports operation on all of the HF
bands, plus 6m, 2m and 70cm. It also provides a general-coverage
receiver for HF, plus receives (but won't transmit on) public-safety
VHF-hi communications, the FM broadcast band, and the VHF aircraft band.
With a device like a RigBlaster and just about any present-day computer,
you can also operate just about any digital mode with the '817.

(Obviously I'm a big fan of the 817! There's also the FT-857 if you
want to have a little more power on tap if needed.)

Hope that helps.



Thanks for the info, I'll check out those models also.

I will probably be trying out all modes of operation on all bands
eventually, as I learn more, so how many watts of output power will I
need for most contacts? I don't want to start out undersized!

Also, does anyone know of a website that has side-by-side compairsons of
rigs?

Thanks,
MikeB

In case you haven't seen it -- Try eham reviews -- not side by side
comparisons -- but a lot of owners have comments.

http://www.eham.net/reviews/

--
73 From
SNIP
Also, does anyone know of a website that has side-by-side compairsons of
rigs?

Thanks,
MikeB

In case you haven't seen it -- Try eham reviews -- not side by side
comparisons -- but a lot of owners have comments.

http://www.eham.net/reviews/

--
73 From
SNIP
Also, does anyone know of a website that has side-by-side compairsons of
rigs?

Thanks,
MikeB

Legal Limit
--
http://www.qsl.net/sv1hao


eventually, as I learn more, so how many watts of output power will I
need for most contacts? I don't want to start out undersized!

Legal Limit
--
http://www.qsl.net/sv1hao


eventually, as I learn more, so how many watts of output power will I
need for most contacts? I don't want to start out undersized!

eventually, as I learn more, so how many watts of output power will I
need for most contacts? I don't want to start out undersized!



It depends.

For running around town talking through your local repeater on VHF/UHF,
somewhere in the range of 5 to 50 watts will do the job. It depends on the
heights of the respective antennas and their distance apart.

For HF communications, usually 100 watts is adequate. When conditions are
very good, considerably less will be needed. When conditions are marginal,
you may have to go up in power (limit is 1500 watts) or switch to CW. If
conditions are very bad, you may just have to go read a book as all the
power in the world won't help.

Dee D. Flint, N8UZE

eventually, as I learn more, so how many watts of output power will I
need for most contacts? I don't want to start out undersized!



It depends.

For running around town talking through your local repeater on VHF/UHF,
somewhere in the range of 5 to 50 watts will do the job. It depends on the
heights of the respective antennas and their distance apart.

For HF communications, usually 100 watts is adequate. When conditions are
very good, considerably less will be needed. When conditions are marginal,
you may have to go up in power (limit is 1500 watts) or switch to CW. If
conditions are very bad, you may just have to go read a book as all the
power in the world won't help.

Dee D. Flint, N8UZE

It depends.

For running around town talking through your local repeater on VHF/UHF,
somewhere in the range of 5 to 50 watts will do the job. It depends on the
heights of the respective antennas and their distance apart.

For HF communications, usually 100 watts is adequate. When conditions are
very good, considerably less will be needed. When conditions are marginal,
you may have to go up in power (limit is 1500 watts) or switch to CW. If
conditions are very bad, you may just have to go read a book as all the
power in the world won't help.

Dee D. Flint, N8UZE

I've been so busy studying for the tests that I haven't had much time
for anything else.

So far I obtained a Heathkit HW-8 and a keyer to start my shack. I
also have a SWR meter. I think a transmatch and dummy load will be
next on my list. What are other common accessories I will need
(besides an antenna)? Once I set up a dipole and get some
experience, I'll start looking at HF rigs.

My test was today & I passed elements 1, 2 & 3, I'd better get busy on
the antenna!!!!

TIA,
MikeB

In article ,
says...
It depends.

For running around town talking through your local repeater on VHF/UHF,
somewhere in the range of 5 to 50 watts will do the job. It depends on the
heights of the respective antennas and their distance apart.

For HF communications, usually 100 watts is adequate. When conditions are
very good, considerably less will be needed. When conditions are marginal,
you may have to go up in power (limit is 1500 watts) or switch to CW. If
conditions are very bad, you may just have to go read a book as all the
power in the world won't help.

Dee D. Flint, N8UZE

I've been so busy studying for the tests that I haven't had much time
for anything else.

So far I obtained a Heathkit HW-8 and a keyer to start my shack. I
also have a SWR meter. I think a transmatch and dummy load will be
next on my list. What are other common accessories I will need
(besides an antenna)? Once I set up a dipole and get some
experience, I'll start looking at HF rigs.

My test was today & I passed elements 1, 2 & 3, I'd better get busy on
the antenna!!!!

Congratulations, and welcome aboard!

You have a keyer, do you have a set of paddles? Or is your keyer a
combination keyer & paddles in one unit?

That HW-8 is a tried-and-true rig, as you will no doubt find out. I've
had all three in that line (HW-7, -8 and -9). The HW-8 was produced by
the thousands back in Heathkit's heyday -- I'd bet it's well into the
top 10 of all-time best-sellers in their family. Too bad they're no
longer in the ham radio market. sigh

Since you're only talking about a few watts of power, you really don't
need much in the way of a dummy load. A 1-watt 50-ohm resistor is about
all you need!

Visit www.amqrp.org -- that's the site of the American QRP Club, a
merger of the NJQRP and NorCal groups. You'll find a wealth of
information there on all facets of QRP operation. Covers little
homebrew stuff to the modern rigs like the Yaesu FT-817 and Elecraft K2.
Just about everything you'll need to know is there for the browsing.

Enjoy!


--

-- //Steve//

Steve Silverwood, KB6OJS
Fountain Valley, CA
Email:
Web: http://home.earthlink.net/~kb6ojs_steve