Increasingly, components are more available in SMD form
than in leaded varieties.

Now, I have not tried the following, it is a suggestion as I'm
bogged down in other projects ...

With a single-sided PCB, used as the earth plane, glue
the SMD components down on the fibreglass side, allowing
at least 1/4" either side of each component. This is to ensure
that there is room for your soldering iron and allows for decreasing
eyesight and wobbly fingers.

When the glue is dried hard, then wire together using that pink
stuff that does not need the enamel to be stripped before
soldering.

And I mean HARD!

But be cautious over some glues that release when heated,
such as cyanoacrylate super glues and the Brit Araldite.

On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 16:24:46 +0100, gareth wrote:

Increasingly, components are more available in SMD form than in leaded
varieties.

Now, I have not tried the following, it is a suggestion as I'm bogged
down in other projects ...

With a single-sided PCB, used as the earth plane, glue the SMD
components down on the fibreglass side, allowing at least 1/4" either
side of each component. This is to ensure that there is room for your
soldering iron and allows for decreasing eyesight and wobbly fingers.

When the glue is dried hard, then wire together using that pink stuff
that does not need the enamel to be stripped before soldering.

And I mean HARD!

But be cautious over some glues that release when heated,
such as cyanoacrylate super glues and the Brit Araldite.

Another way is to use perfboard with pads on one side every 0.1" (and no
ground plane in between!). The other side can be bare, ground plane,
more pads, or whatever is needed. 0805 and 1206 size components can be
easily soldered between the pads, perhaps even 0603. Several components
can be soldered to one pad, each going in its own direction; this is for
where several components have a common connection.

For ICs with 0.05" lead spacing, bend every other lead up and solder the
remaining leads to pads. The bent-up leads are connected in the air.
Sometimes, the circuit calls for adjacent leads to be connected together;
if this is the case, it may be possible to alter the bending sequence to
allow them to be soldered to the same pad.

ICs with lead spacing closer than 0.05" are a pain to hand solder even on
a correctly laid out PC board. And, of course, BGAs can't be hand
soldered at all.

An advantage over the OP is that you don't have to wait for glue to dry.

I have personally used these techniques both in building home projects
and breadboards for work. Sometimes using these methods with SMD parts
is easier than using leaded parts.

Don't use cyanoacrylate super glues on anything that will be heated; they
give off nasty fumes.

--
Jim Mueller

To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman.
Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.

On Thu, 19 Jun 2014, Jim Mueller wrote:

On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 16:24:46 +0100, gareth wrote:

Increasingly, components are more available in SMD form than in leaded
varieties.

Now, I have not tried the following, it is a suggestion as I'm bogged
down in other projects ...

With a single-sided PCB, used as the earth plane, glue the SMD
components down on the fibreglass side, allowing at least 1/4" either
side of each component. This is to ensure that there is room for your
soldering iron and allows for decreasing eyesight and wobbly fingers.

When the glue is dried hard, then wire together using that pink stuff
that does not need the enamel to be stripped before soldering.

And I mean HARD!

But be cautious over some glues that release when heated,
such as cyanoacrylate super glues and the Brit Araldite.

Another way is to use perfboard with pads on one side every 0.1" (and no
ground plane in between!). The other side can be bare, ground plane,
more pads, or whatever is needed. 0805 and 1206 size components can be
easily soldered between the pads, perhaps even 0603. Several components
can be soldered to one pad, each going in its own direction; this is for
where several components have a common connection.

For ICs with 0.05" lead spacing, bend every other lead up and solder the
remaining leads to pads. The bent-up leads are connected in the air.
Sometimes, the circuit calls for adjacent leads to be connected together;
if this is the case, it may be possible to alter the bending sequence to
allow them to be soldered to the same pad.

ICs with lead spacing closer than 0.05" are a pain to hand solder even on
a correctly laid out PC board. And, of course, BGAs can't be hand
soldered at all.

An advantage over the OP is that you don't have to wait for glue to dry.

I have personally used these techniques both in building home projects
and breadboards for work. Sometimes using these methods with SMD parts
is easier than using leaded parts.

Don't use cyanoacrylate super glues on anything that will be heated; they
give off nasty fumes.

I seem to recall from early articles about surface mount the suggestion of
using a dab of flux to hold the component in place. It was only to hold
it until you actually had something soldered.

That said, I really think a good magnifiying glass or microscope makes
sense. I was trying to figure out something, and got out the jeweller's
loupe, and it's amazing how much bigger everything is. That's not going
to work for soldering, but getting good magnification that will stand on
its own is bound to help a lot. And good lighting. Looking at that board
with the loupe almost makes the idea of soldering surface mount within my
capability.

Michael

"Michael Black" wrote in message
news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1406192357540.18018@darkstar. example.org...

I seem to recall from early articles about surface mount the suggestion of
using a dab of flux to hold the component in place. It was only to hold
it until you actually had something soldered.

Yes, but that presupposes a PCB is ready.

Jim Mueller wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 16:24:46 +0100, gareth wrote:
Don't use cyanoacrylate super glues on anything that will be heated; they
give off nasty fumes.

This also reveals fingerprints, so could help solve some cold cases in
Chippenham.

"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...

For SMD projects, rather than repairs, you can use a domestic oven to
solder the boards. Ideally, get a small table top model (the type of thing
student or caravaners use) but I did a test run in a full sized kitchen
one. The key thing is to be able to get to 230C or so at least.

But you're going off at a tangent, for my suggestion related to ugly
construction and not going to the bother of getting PCBs made

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 6:24:46 PM UTC+3, gareth wrote:
Increasingly, components are more available in SMD form

than in leaded varieties.


Or you can do it like THIS using solder as glue!
Mixing all kinds (almost) of component is possible.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt0S_pLQOvA

73s de oh2aun / Mike

"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...

Cue nonsense from Walter Mitty, which will be ignored.

You propose to ignore yourself? Good advice!

"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...
For SMD projects, rather than repairs, you can use a domestic oven to
solder the boards. Ideally, get a small table top model (the type of thing
student or caravaners use) but I did a test run in a full sized kitchen
one. The key thing is to be able to get to 230C or so at least.
You need to plot a graph of the way the oven temp rises using a
thermocouple (I borrowed one but they are cheap enough to buy). Basically
you put the board it with all the components held in place by solder
paste.
Set the temp to about 200C and watch as it rises. When it gets to 100,
turn
oven off for 3 min, this is known as drying time and is to drive the
solvent from the solder paste, them set temp to 250 or as high as you can
if lower. Now watch carefully, as soon as the solder paste melts and flows
to make the joints, turn off the oven and open the door.
I've tried this a couple of times and the results are surprisingly good.
No
dry joints, no moved components.
The graph will help you predict when things are about to 'happen' and the
thermocouple is essential if your oven temp. gauge isn't accurate.

Following on from your repeated childish sneer about vapourware and your
inability to establish your own bona fides in respect of completed projects
I suggest that what you type above really does take the biscuit in
terms of confabulatory Walter Mittycism?

On 6/20/2014 3:54 AM, Brian Reay wrote:
Michael Black wrote:


I seem to recall from early articles about surface mount the suggestion
of using a dab of flux to hold the component in place. It was only to
hold it until you actually had something soldered.

That said, I really think a good magnifiying glass or microscope makes
sense. I was trying to figure out something, and got out the jeweller's
loupe, and it's amazing how much bigger everything is. That's not going
to work for soldering, but getting good magnification that will stand on
its own is bound to help a lot. And good lighting. Looking at that board
with the loupe almost makes the idea of soldering surface mount within my capability.

Michael,

For SMD projects, rather than repairs, you can use a domestic oven to
solder the boards. Ideally, get a small table top model (the type of thing
student or caravaners use) but I did a test run in a full sized kitchen
one. The key thing is to be able to get to 230C or so at least.

You need to plot a graph of the way the oven temp rises using a
thermocouple (I borrowed one but they are cheap enough to buy). Basically
you put the board it with all the components held in place by solder paste.
Set the temp to about 200C and watch as it rises. When it gets to 100, turn
oven off for 3 min, this is known as drying time and is to drive the
solvent from the solder paste, them set temp to 250 or as high as you can
if lower. Now watch carefully, as soon as the solder paste melts and flows
to make the joints, turn off the oven and open the door.

I've tried this a couple of times and the results are surprisingly good. No
dry joints, no moved components.

The graph will help you predict when things are about to 'happen' and the
thermocouple is essential if your oven temp. gauge isn't accurate.


Brian,

I hadn't heard of using a domestic oven like this. It sounds like an
interesting idea. But wouldn't it be a bit hard on the components? I
wouldn't think many would like being heated his hot.

The commercial assembly lines I've seen use robot soldering irons
instead of heating the entire board.

--
==================
Remove the "x" from my email address
Jerry, AI0K

==================