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  #31   Report Post  
Old October 19th 03, 09:00 PM
John Bartley
 
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W7TI wrote:

If you're using octal type tubes, there are sockets made for industrial
relays which fit the tubes perfectly. They are as you describe; surface
mount with side terminals. They no doubt add a small amount of
inductance and capacitance which could affect VHF operation, something
to keep in mind. McMaster-Carr has them on page 819 of their online
catalog:

http://www.mcmaster.com/


Very nicely done!!! Thank you. These are the ideal thing for an
experimenter.

--
regards from ::
John Bartley
43 Norway Spruce Street
Stittsville, Ontario
Canada, K2S1P5
( If you slow down it takes longer - does that apply to life also?)



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  #32   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 01:25 AM
Michael A. Terrell
 
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Michael Black wrote:

"Ralph Mowery" ) writes:

Aluminum is usually easier for most to work with with simple hand tools.
Steel is fine but it might rust and look bad after a while. Make the
chassie out of whatever kind of metel that you think is the best for you to
work with . Electrically there will be little if any differance.


And of course, everyone did use steel (once things progressed beyond
wood and bakelite chassis) right up until aluminum because readily
available and/or cheap enough, at which point I doubt anyone used
steel except if what they were building was really really heavy, ie
a kilowatt modulator or final.

Michael VE2BVW


I have seen a few nice layouts on Brass chassis, as well. Easier to
work than steel, and you can still solder to it. I built some tube RF
decks on 1/16" brass sheet stock, and mounted them into a steel cabinet
years ago.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
  #33   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 01:25 AM
Michael A. Terrell
 
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Michael Black wrote:

"Ralph Mowery" ) writes:

Aluminum is usually easier for most to work with with simple hand tools.
Steel is fine but it might rust and look bad after a while. Make the
chassie out of whatever kind of metel that you think is the best for you to
work with . Electrically there will be little if any differance.


And of course, everyone did use steel (once things progressed beyond
wood and bakelite chassis) right up until aluminum because readily
available and/or cheap enough, at which point I doubt anyone used
steel except if what they were building was really really heavy, ie
a kilowatt modulator or final.

Michael VE2BVW


I have seen a few nice layouts on Brass chassis, as well. Easier to
work than steel, and you can still solder to it. I built some tube RF
decks on 1/16" brass sheet stock, and mounted them into a steel cabinet
years ago.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
  #34   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 01:28 AM
Michael A. Terrell
 
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John Bartley wrote:

W7TI wrote:

If you're using octal type tubes, there are sockets made for industrial
relays which fit the tubes perfectly. They are as you describe; surface
mount with side terminals. They no doubt add a small amount of
inductance and capacitance which could affect VHF operation, something
to keep in mind. McMaster-Carr has them on page 819 of their online
catalog:

http://www.mcmaster.com/


Very nicely done!!! Thank you. These are the ideal thing for an
experimenter.

--
regards from ::
John Bartley
43 Norway Spruce Street
Stittsville, Ontario
Canada, K2S1P5
( If you slow down it takes longer - does that apply to life also?)

-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----


One thing to watch out for. Relay sockets are not made to run at
high temperatures, so you have to make sure they don't melt or burn.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
  #35   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 01:28 AM
Michael A. Terrell
 
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John Bartley wrote:

W7TI wrote:

If you're using octal type tubes, there are sockets made for industrial
relays which fit the tubes perfectly. They are as you describe; surface
mount with side terminals. They no doubt add a small amount of
inductance and capacitance which could affect VHF operation, something
to keep in mind. McMaster-Carr has them on page 819 of their online
catalog:

http://www.mcmaster.com/


Very nicely done!!! Thank you. These are the ideal thing for an
experimenter.

--
regards from ::
John Bartley
43 Norway Spruce Street
Stittsville, Ontario
Canada, K2S1P5
( If you slow down it takes longer - does that apply to life also?)

-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----


One thing to watch out for. Relay sockets are not made to run at
high temperatures, so you have to make sure they don't melt or burn.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida


  #36   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 01:47 AM
R J Carpenter
 
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"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

One thing to watch out for. Relay sockets are not made to run at
high temperatures, so you have to make sure they don't melt or burn.


Yikes!!!!!!!!! Wherever are you going to find temperatures in a receiver
that would melt any plastic?

Polystyrene miniature tube sockets were used in "UHF" radio receiving
projects. Soldering to their contacts took some skill to avoid melting the
plastic, but there was no problem during operation.

I'll grant you that transmitting firebottles might bother a polystyrene
socket.


  #37   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 01:47 AM
R J Carpenter
 
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"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

One thing to watch out for. Relay sockets are not made to run at
high temperatures, so you have to make sure they don't melt or burn.


Yikes!!!!!!!!! Wherever are you going to find temperatures in a receiver
that would melt any plastic?

Polystyrene miniature tube sockets were used in "UHF" radio receiving
projects. Soldering to their contacts took some skill to avoid melting the
plastic, but there was no problem during operation.

I'll grant you that transmitting firebottles might bother a polystyrene
socket.


  #38   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 02:56 AM
Michael A. Terrell
 
Posts: n/a
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R J Carpenter wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

One thing to watch out for. Relay sockets are not made to run at
high temperatures, so you have to make sure they don't melt or burn.


Yikes!!!!!!!!! Wherever are you going to find temperatures in a receiver
that would melt any plastic?

Polystyrene miniature tube sockets were used in "UHF" radio receiving
projects. Soldering to their contacts took some skill to avoid melting the
plastic, but there was no problem during operation.

I'll grant you that transmitting firebottles might bother a polystyrene
socket.


That was what I was thinking. Someone trying to use a sweep tube to
build a small transmitter, and having heat problems with the socket.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
  #39   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 02:56 AM
Michael A. Terrell
 
Posts: n/a
Default

R J Carpenter wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

One thing to watch out for. Relay sockets are not made to run at
high temperatures, so you have to make sure they don't melt or burn.


Yikes!!!!!!!!! Wherever are you going to find temperatures in a receiver
that would melt any plastic?

Polystyrene miniature tube sockets were used in "UHF" radio receiving
projects. Soldering to their contacts took some skill to avoid melting the
plastic, but there was no problem during operation.

I'll grant you that transmitting firebottles might bother a polystyrene
socket.


That was what I was thinking. Someone trying to use a sweep tube to
build a small transmitter, and having heat problems with the socket.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
  #40   Report Post  
Old October 20th 03, 01:33 PM
Deos
 
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Aluminum= nice to work with+very light+dose not rust+not really that
expensive

--
http://www.qsl.net/sv1hao
"David Forsyth" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I recently became interested in trying to build a small two-tube regen

type
receiver for broadcast and/or shortwave reception. I designed a simple
chassis based on some vintage articles on the subject. This is the

classic
'metal box with attched front faceplate' design. I was going to use
cold-rolled steel since we have this at work and spot weld the face to the
main chassis, but then I got to thinking that perhaps the steel might
interfere with the coils. I noticed also after this that every old

article
that I've come across usually suggested aluminum for the chassis. They
don't make mention of the reasons for this, however. I was wondering if
ease of machinability for the amatuer working with simple hand tools, and
perhaps also weight savings, were main factors, or was it mainly for lack

of
magnetic interation with the coils? We also have sheets of aluminum,

brass,
and stainless that I can use but I'm not sure if they can be resistance
welded, so I would have to bolt the face onto the main chassis box.

Anyone
have any further ideas or insights?

thanks in advance,

Dave




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