" It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC
'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of
connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. "

The Power Pole manufacturers love you guys ! Used to be you could just
simply hook up a piece of gear to your power supply - not they have ops
buying special tools, connectors, cables, boots and what have you
just to make a connection. What a racket! Turn a free activity into
something that costs you money.

73

On 01/18/2016 08:05 AM, gareth wrote:
"gareth" wrote in message
...
Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here

First sttempt at crimping seems to have failed because the connector would
not
slide easily into the shroud, and it was a devil of a job to get the hook
over the end of the flat spring.


Re-reading the gen, it would appear that the crimping has ended up too flat
such that even
when clipped in, there is no free movement of the wire end. portending a bad
contact if I continue.

(I expected to have to sacrifice the first attempt, but any suggestions,
please?)

Brian Reay wrote:
Reynard wrote:
" It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC
'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of
connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. "

The Power Pole manufacturers love you guys ! Used to be you could just
simply hook up a piece of gear to your power supply - not they have ops
buying special tools, connectors, cables, boots and what have you
just to make a connection. What a racket! Turn a free activity into
something that costs you money.



Things like Powerpoles are convenient, give a neat finish, and prevent
silly errors (if used correctly). If you don't think those are worth
investing in, fine, you are free not to.

I don't like them because there appears to be no chassis version and
I like to have a distribution box where everything can be connected,
vs a big tangle of wires with connectors in the middle.

On 1/18/2016 1:06 PM, Rob wrote:
Brian Reay wrote:
Reynard wrote:
" It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC
'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of
connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. "

The Power Pole manufacturers love you guys ! Used to be you could just
simply hook up a piece of gear to your power supply - not they have ops
buying special tools, connectors, cables, boots and what have you
just to make a connection. What a racket! Turn a free activity into
something that costs you money.



Things like Powerpoles are convenient, give a neat finish, and prevent
silly errors (if used correctly). If you don't think those are worth
investing in, fine, you are free not to.

I don't like them because there appears to be no chassis version and
I like to have a distribution box where everything can be connected,
vs a big tangle of wires with connectors in the middle.

There actually are chassis mount versions, e.g.
http://www.amazon.com/Anderson-1470G.../dp/B00IHOC8QA.
But anywhere I have seen them they have been much more expensive than
the "end of the wire" versions that I keep in stock.
But note that several recent radios (e.g. Yaesu Ft2900r) have their
power connections (typically Molex) on the end of a short pigtail. We
can do likewise, short wires through a grommet or strain relief on the
chassis and PowerPoles on their ends. That does not take care of your
distribution box too well and it is not as pretty even for other uses,
I'd rather have the chassis versions too, but not at their prices!
Bob Wilson

On 18/01/2016 19:06, Rob wrote:
Brian Reay wrote:
Reynard wrote:
" It is also worth investing in some of the accessories- eg the PVC
'boots' and panel mount holders, plus the pins to 'lock' blocks of
connectors together if you are making your own multi-way connectors. "

The Power Pole manufacturers love you guys ! Used to be you could just
simply hook up a piece of gear to your power supply - not they have ops
buying special tools, connectors, cables, boots and what have you
just to make a connection. What a racket! Turn a free activity into
something that costs you money.



Things like Powerpoles are convenient, give a neat finish, and prevent
silly errors (if used correctly). If you don't think those are worth
investing in, fine, you are free not to.

I don't like them because there appears to be no chassis version and
I like to have a distribution box where everything can be connected,
vs a big tangle of wires with connectors in the middle.


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=chassis+mount+powerpole

"Rob" wrote in message
...

I don't like them because there appears to be no chassis version and
I like to have a distribution box where everything can be connected,
vs a big tangle of wires with connectors in the middle.

There are ways to to mount them to a chassis, but it seems expensive for the
way they are made.

"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...
There are at least two types. One is simply a couple of E shaped metal
plates. The centre of the E goes into the small hole, the connector body
fits in the gaps. You can stack connectors and put one plate at each end.

This type are very cheap.


I don't think I have seen that kind, or if I did only one set of the PPs
were installed that way.

I would like for someone to come out with about 8 or 10 sets on a plate for
cheap price, not the $ 50 or more for them that I have seen.
Years ago I made up a plate to go on the back of my radio desk which
resembles a computer desk that has several sets of bannana jacks on it that
works ok, but have to just use wires or the spade lugs on it.

"gareth" wrote in message
...
"gareth" wrote in message
...
Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here
First sttempt at crimping seems to have failed because the connector would
not
slide easily into the shroud, and it was a devil of a job to get the hook
over the end of the flat spring.
Re-reading the gen, it would appear that the crimping has ended up too
flat such that even
when clipped in, there is no free movement of the wire end. portending a
bad contact if I continue.
(I expected to have to sacrifice the first attempt, but any suggestions,
please?)


Problem solved by resorting to soldering. In any case, the guy who lent me
the
crimpers had been using them for the 100A, or thereabouts, versions for his
5" gauge battery-powered Claas 45 diesel outline, so no wonder that even the
smallest setting on his crimpers wouldn't close properly on a 30A jobbie.

"gareth" wrote in message
...
"gareth" wrote in message
...
"gareth" wrote in message
...
Decided to Power Pole all the 12V gear here
First sttempt at crimping seems to have failed because the connector
would not
slide easily into the shroud, and it was a devil of a job to get the hook
over the end of the flat spring.
Re-reading the gen, it would appear that the crimping has ended up too
flat such that even
when clipped in, there is no free movement of the wire end. portending a
bad contact if I continue.
(I expected to have to sacrifice the first attempt, but any suggestions,
please?)
Problem solved by resorting to soldering. In any case, the guy who lent me
the
crimpers had been using them for the 100A, or thereabouts, versions for
his
5" gauge battery-powered Claas 45 diesel outline, so no wonder that even
the
smallest setting on his crimpers wouldn't close properly on a 30A jobbie.

Now, whereas the G0HWC websire recommends a roll pin to stop the black and
red pair
separating, and others have decried that lest the pin falls out and causes
an electrical short,
as I have a bucketful of 8BA ex-eqpt screws, perhaps the answer might be to
tap that little
hole to take a machine screw.

"gareth" wrote in message
...



All is rosy now in the garden,and thanks for suggestions.

Now, all I need is a 1/4" or so plug and socket so that I can quickly attach
the
ground terminal to whichever rig is now powerpoled to the ATU and the PSU.

I'm using the green/yellow 10mm sq stuff used for earthing in Brit, and 'tis
a bit
unwieldy to keep fiddling with the wing nut attachment on the back of each
rig.

Shack is upstairs, front bedroom, earth is ground stake and a fan of
microbore tubing apread out over the front lawn. House earth is a TT
installation so no
probs with PME, etc.

On 01/18/2016 07:13 PM, gareth wrote:
"gareth" wrote in message
...



All is rosy now in the garden,and thanks for suggestions.

Now, all I need is a 1/4" or so plug and socket so that I can quickly attach
the
ground terminal to whichever rig is now powerpoled to the ATU and the PSU.

I'm using the green/yellow 10mm sq stuff used for earthing in Brit, and 'tis
a bit
unwieldy to keep fiddling with the wing nut attachment on the back of each
rig.

Shack is upstairs, front bedroom, earth is ground stake and a fan of
microbore tubing apread out over the front lawn. House earth is a TT
installation so no
probs with PME, etc.
=========
RF earth for an upstairs shack can be effectively done with an "earth
tuner"
e.g. a series tuned variable C /variable inductor with a RF current
sensor ie wound toroid/
diode /mA meter and potmeter, having say the inductor end connected to a
random length of wire running on the floor in the room (under carpet )
The tuner needs to be adjusted for max RF current (low impedance).
Only disadvantage compared with a straight earth wire into the ground is
the requirement to retune when changing frequency.

The above is often used in apartment buildings where a direct earth wire
is not practical.
I made such a tuner myself for demonstration puposes ,but MFJ make them
(Artificial Ground Model MFJ-931)
See also Practical Wireless Mag , October 1990 ,page 21) for home brewing.

Frank , GM0CSZ / KN6WH