Hello Tim,

See if there is a PCB manufacturer within resonable driving distance and
ask for scraps. That's how I got a huge stash decades ago. Single and
double sided, the good stuff (FR4). But it has to be picked up, in my
case they wouldn't have gone through the trouble of packaging and
mailing it. Basically it had to be no more effort on their part than a
walk to the dumpster would have been.

Mine weren't tinned though. Also, I am not sure if constantly touching a
pre-tinned board during experiments would be too healthy.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Hello Tim,

See if there is a PCB manufacturer within resonable driving distance
and
ask for scraps. That's how I got a huge stash decades ago. Single and
double sided, the good stuff (FR4). But it has to be picked up, in my
case they wouldn't have gone through the trouble of packaging and
mailing it. Basically it had to be no more effort on their part than a
walk to the dumpster would have been.

Mine weren't tinned though. Also, I am not sure if constantly touching
a
pre-tinned board during experiments would be too healthy.

Why is that? Lead? I thought that paint with lead in it was a lot
worse.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

Hello Watson,

Why is that? Lead? I thought that paint with lead in it was a lot
worse.

I believe yes, plus other additives.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

See if there is a PCB manufacturer within resonable driving distance and
ask for scraps. That's how I got a huge stash decades ago. Single and
double sided, the good stuff (FR4). But it has to be picked up, in my case
they wouldn't have gone through the trouble of packaging and mailing it.
Basically it had to be no more effort on their part than a walk to the
dumpster would have been.

Mine weren't tinned though. Also, I am not sure if constantly touching a
pre-tinned board during experiments would be too healthy.
===============================
Printed circuit board scraps up to large pieces ,be it usually double sided
, are always available at ham radio flea markets in the various european
countries. I think I have stocked up for life ! From the larger bits you
can make neat enclosures.

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH

"Pipex News Server" ) writes:
See if there is a PCB manufacturer within resonable driving distance and
ask for scraps. That's how I got a huge stash decades ago. Single and
double sided, the good stuff (FR4). But it has to be picked up, in my case
they wouldn't have gone through the trouble of packaging and mailing it.
Basically it had to be no more effort on their part than a walk to the
dumpster would have been.

Mine weren't tinned though. Also, I am not sure if constantly touching a
pre-tinned board during experiments would be too healthy.
===============================
Printed circuit board scraps up to large pieces ,be it usually double sided
, are always available at ham radio flea markets in the various european
countries. I think I have stocked up for life ! From the larger bits you
can make neat enclosures.

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH


Yes, I've been able to get it at the local "surplus" outlet for
thirty years, though I suppose at this point many a location no
longer has such a store.

They often have board that has been drilled, or shaped in a certain
design, clearly overrun or projects that got scrapped. If you
aren't actually etching the board, or if you only need small pieces,
these work fine and cost even less.

Because it's cheap, I've done things like use it for panels on projects.
Circuit board is a easier to work with than metal, yet the copper
provides shielding.

I've even pulled the copper off boards when I need it gone, though
that tends to be tedious. If it's just a small piece, I grind it
off.

Michael VE2BVW

I work for a PCB manufacturer. All scrap has to be accounted for, and is
then sent for recycling (copper is costly). I've managed, over the last
couple of years, to get hold of some pieces of scrap, but these are few
and far between.

For cleaning boards, we use a sulfuric acid and pumice scrub. That last
part should be doable at home (I certainly won't be messing with reagent
grade sulfuric at home!). Maybe using previously mentioned lemon juice?

"Only two things are infinite, the Universe and human stupidity, and I'm
not sure about the former."
Albert Einstein

On Sat, 7 May 2005 13:03:33 -0400, (Padraigh
ProAmerica) wrote:

I work for a PCB manufacturer. All scrap has to be accounted for, and is
then sent for recycling (copper is costly). I've managed, over the last
couple of years, to get hold of some pieces of scrap, but these are few
and far between.

For cleaning boards, we use a sulfuric acid and pumice scrub. That last
part should be doable at home (I certainly won't be messing with reagent
grade sulfuric at home!). Maybe using previously mentioned lemon juice?

Basic white vinegar from the grocery store is a reasonably safe acid
to work with. Cheap to experiment with different concentrations, and
probably stronger than the lemon juice, certainly less expensive.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
--
At the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Gary S. (Idontwantspam@net) writes:
On Sat, 7 May 2005 13:03:33 -0400, (Padraigh
ProAmerica) wrote:

I work for a PCB manufacturer. All scrap has to be accounted for, and is
then sent for recycling (copper is costly). I've managed, over the last
couple of years, to get hold of some pieces of scrap, but these are few
and far between.

For cleaning boards, we use a sulfuric acid and pumice scrub. That last
part should be doable at home (I certainly won't be messing with reagent
grade sulfuric at home!). Maybe using previously mentioned lemon juice?

Basic white vinegar from the grocery store is a reasonably safe acid
to work with. Cheap to experiment with different concentrations, and
probably stronger than the lemon juice, certainly less expensive.

I've never found anything on blank circuit board that couldn't come
off with just a good scrubbing, so obviously there is no need for
heavy chemicals. I seem to recall using soap at some point, which
worked, and I will try the vinegar.

The real issue is that no matter how shiny you get the boards, unless
you coat them with something they will tarnish with time.

Michael VE2BVW

On 7 May 2005 18:38:24 GMT, (Michael Black)
wrote:

Gary S. (Idontwantspam@net) writes:

Basic white vinegar from the grocery store is a reasonably safe acid
to work with. Cheap to experiment with different concentrations, and
probably stronger than the lemon juice, certainly less expensive.

I've never found anything on blank circuit board that couldn't come
off with just a good scrubbing, so obviously there is no need for
heavy chemicals. I seem to recall using soap at some point, which
worked, and I will try the vinegar.

The real issue is that no matter how shiny you get the boards, unless
you coat them with something they will tarnish with time.

Michael VE2BVW

True for most metals. Flux does a good job of removing the inevitable
little bit of tarnish/oxidation.

I did not mention earlier that it is very important to throughly rinse
off any acid, however mild, that you use.

There are ways to plate the copper with other metals less likely to
tarnish or oxidize, such as silver, or even gold in critical
applications.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
--
At the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom