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Old May 27th 04, 05:19 PM
Strafe
 
Posts: n/a
Default Trying to save an old Icom R1

I have owned an R1 for the past 10+ years and use it occasionally. As the
only local authorized Icom repair shop has told me (who I now believe to be
a total scam artist) 'If you don't occasionally use the radio, the internal
battery will die and have to be replaced'. So, the last time this happened I
attempted to unsolder and remove/replace the internal CL2020-1VC myself. My
soldering skills suck and I ended up having the scammer fix this for me as
well as replace the internal NiCd battery (P-03ER/F23G1). I'm pulling these
part numbers from the service manual BTW. Well, another 2 years have passed
and I haven't used the radio in a while and of course the R1 is completely
dead again. No amount of charging (with the ac adapter) will bring it back
up. So I decide to try to fix it agin myself. I take the radio apart and
what do I find? The scammer NEVER REPLACED the CL2020, there is just an
empty space where the battery should be.

So, Problem #1 - I'm having trouble sourcing a CL2020-1VC. I'm not sure if
that 1VC means 1 volt or not because all the CL2020's I've seen say they are
3 volts. I'll also need a sleeve for it to solder it back on the board (I
have a much better soldering iron now, maybe that will help). Getting the
battery with the sleve already would be great.

Problem #2 - How can I test the internal NiCd? I don't understand why it's
not charging. If I need another one I will need a source for that as well.

You may have guessed I know next to nothing about electronics but I'm
looking to learn, thanks for any help you can provide!

Matt



  #2   Report Post  
Old May 27th 04, 05:35 PM
eeyore
 
Posts: n/a
Default

If left uncharged, the internal battery runs down. The radio may need a
reset.
Suggest you try this first:

http://www.icomamerica.com/support/faq/amateurfaqs.asp

"Strafe" wrote in message
.. .
I have owned an R1 for the past 10+ years and use it occasionally. As the
only local authorized Icom repair shop has told me (who I now believe to

be
a total scam artist) 'If you don't occasionally use the radio, the

internal
battery will die and have to be replaced'. So, the last time this happened

I
attempted to unsolder and remove/replace the internal CL2020-1VC myself.

My
soldering skills suck and I ended up having the scammer fix this for me as
well as replace the internal NiCd battery (P-03ER/F23G1). I'm pulling

these
part numbers from the service manual BTW. Well, another 2 years have

passed
and I haven't used the radio in a while and of course the R1 is completely
dead again. No amount of charging (with the ac adapter) will bring it back
up. So I decide to try to fix it agin myself. I take the radio apart and
what do I find? The scammer NEVER REPLACED the CL2020, there is just an
empty space where the battery should be.

So, Problem #1 - I'm having trouble sourcing a CL2020-1VC. I'm not sure if
that 1VC means 1 volt or not because all the CL2020's I've seen say they

are
3 volts. I'll also need a sleeve for it to solder it back on the board (I
have a much better soldering iron now, maybe that will help). Getting the
battery with the sleve already would be great.

Problem #2 - How can I test the internal NiCd? I don't understand why it's
not charging. If I need another one I will need a source for that as well.

You may have guessed I know next to nothing about electronics but I'm
looking to learn, thanks for any help you can provide!

Matt




  #3   Report Post  
Old May 27th 04, 06:24 PM
Mike Y
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"eeyore" wrote in message
...
If left uncharged, the internal battery runs down. The radio may need a
reset.
Suggest you try this first:

http://www.icomamerica.com/support/faq/amateurfaqs.asp


Is the R1 one of those radios that will loose it's own internal operating
system
if the battery goes totally dead?

Yep, there's a few of those out there. Don't recall if the R1 is one of
them
though.

I remember seeing aftermarket kits for some of the ICOM radios that did
that.
One kit for one of the radios even had 'downloadable' operating system over
the serial port, but always had an 'on board eprom' sort of like a BIOS to
at least always be able to bring the radio up from dead.

I thought the concept was pretty neat, actually. Just the implementation
was
brain dead.

Mike


  #4   Report Post  
Old May 27th 04, 08:18 PM
eeyore
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Per the Icom page,

OS not lost, just need to reset cpu.

"Mike Y" wrote in message
...

"eeyore" wrote in message
...
If left uncharged, the internal battery runs down. The radio may need

a
reset.
Suggest you try this first:

http://www.icomamerica.com/support/faq/amateurfaqs.asp


Is the R1 one of those radios that will loose it's own internal operating
system
if the battery goes totally dead?

Yep, there's a few of those out there. Don't recall if the R1 is one of
them
though.

I remember seeing aftermarket kits for some of the ICOM radios that did
that.
One kit for one of the radios even had 'downloadable' operating system

over
the serial port, but always had an 'on board eprom' sort of like a BIOS to
at least always be able to bring the radio up from dead.

I thought the concept was pretty neat, actually. Just the implementation
was
brain dead.

Mike




  #5   Report Post  
Old May 28th 04, 01:52 PM
Strafe
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"eeyore" wrote in message
...
If left uncharged, the internal battery runs down. The radio may need a
reset.
Suggest you try this first:

http://www.icomamerica.com/support/faq/amateurfaqs.asp


resetting the radio worked, thanks! Should I be concerned about the missing
lithium battery?




  #6   Report Post  
Old May 28th 04, 10:24 PM
Jim Douglas
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Is the service place still in business, do you still have the receipt? Let
the service guy know, and also Icom company that their service places do
this to customers.

"Strafe" wrote in message
.. .
I have owned an R1 for the past 10+ years and use it occasionally. As the
only local authorized Icom repair shop has told me (who I now believe to

be
a total scam artist) 'If you don't occasionally use the radio, the

internal
battery will die and have to be replaced'. So, the last time this happened

I
attempted to unsolder and remove/replace the internal CL2020-1VC myself.

My
soldering skills suck and I ended up having the scammer fix this for me as
well as replace the internal NiCd battery (P-03ER/F23G1). I'm pulling

these
part numbers from the service manual BTW. Well, another 2 years have

passed
and I haven't used the radio in a while and of course the R1 is completely
dead again. No amount of charging (with the ac adapter) will bring it back
up. So I decide to try to fix it agin myself. I take the radio apart and
what do I find? The scammer NEVER REPLACED the CL2020, there is just an
empty space where the battery should be.

So, Problem #1 - I'm having trouble sourcing a CL2020-1VC. I'm not sure if
that 1VC means 1 volt or not because all the CL2020's I've seen say they

are
3 volts. I'll also need a sleeve for it to solder it back on the board (I
have a much better soldering iron now, maybe that will help). Getting the
battery with the sleve already would be great.

Problem #2 - How can I test the internal NiCd? I don't understand why it's
not charging. If I need another one I will need a source for that as well.

You may have guessed I know next to nothing about electronics but I'm
looking to learn, thanks for any help you can provide!

Matt




  #7   Report Post  
Old May 30th 04, 09:14 PM
Mike
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
Strafe wrote:
So, Problem #1 - I'm having trouble sourcing a CL2020-1VC.
I'm not sure if
that 1VC means 1 volt or not because all the CL2020's I've seen say they are
3 volts


CL2020 (are you sure that's not CR2020?) would indicate a cell 2.0 mm
thick and 20mm diameter. And it would be a lithium one, and yes, 3V. I've
no idea what the -1VC is, but it's not going to be the voltage.

Can you measure (physical size) the old battery or holder to confirm this
size? It may help you source a replacement part with a totally different
number, rather than looking for CR/CL2020. Just get the right physical size
and the right voltage ...

I'll also need a sleeve for it to solder it back on the board (I
have a much better soldering iron now, maybe that will help). Getting the
battery with the sleve already would be great.


What sleeve? If it's the kind I'm thinking of, it's a button cell style. They
don't come with sleeves. If you mean some kind of metal clip that was round
the old one, then you needed to keep that part -- it's the battery holder.
Don't try and solder the button cell to wires, that's not good for the
battery.

Problem #2 - How can I test the internal NiCd? I don't understand why it's
not charging. If I need another one I will need a source for that as well.


If it's been sitting discharged for a few years, it's probably died quietly.

The advice about using the scanner now and then to keep the battery charged
wasn't entirely bull ...
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[at]pootle.demon.co.uk | http://www.pootle.demon.co.uk/
  #8   Report Post  
Old March 4th 11, 01:43 AM
Junior Member
 
First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
In article ,
Strafe wrote:
So, Problem #1 - I'm having trouble sourcing a CL2020-1VC.
I'm not sure if
that 1VC means 1 volt or not because all the CL2020's I've seen say they are
3 volts


CL2020 (are you sure that's not CR2020?) would indicate a cell 2.0 mm
thick and 20mm diameter. And it would be a lithium one, and yes, 3V. I've
no idea what the -1VC is, but it's not going to be the voltage.

Can you measure (physical size) the old battery or holder to confirm this
size? It may help you source a replacement part with a totally different
number, rather than looking for CR/CL2020. Just get the right physical size
and the right voltage ...

I'll also need a sleeve for it to solder it back on the board (I
have a much better soldering iron now, maybe that will help). Getting the
battery with the sleve already would be great.


What sleeve? If it's the kind I'm thinking of, it's a button cell style. They
don't come with sleeves. If you mean some kind of metal clip that was round
the old one, then you needed to keep that part -- it's the battery holder.
Don't try and solder the button cell to wires, that's not good for the
battery.

Problem #2 - How can I test the internal NiCd? I don't understand why it's
not charging. If I need another one I will need a source for that as well.


If it's been sitting discharged for a few years, it's probably died quietly.

The advice about using the scanner now and then to keep the battery charged
wasn't entirely bull ...
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[at]pootle.demon.co.uk |
http://www.pootle.demon.co.uk/
I know this is a little late but may be of use to someone. I also have a dead R1 but found the manual. First there are two batteries the NI-CAD and a Lithium that keeps the CPU running. You need to put the radio on the charger for at least one hour to get the lithium going.

To reset the CPU you hold down the F key and the CL key and turn the power
on.

Hope this helps.


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