On Dec 15, 5:53*pm, "Larry Gauthier \(K8UT\)"
wrote:
I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great on
antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting vertical
"slits" in aluminum tubing.

--
-larry
K8UT"JIMMIE" wrote in message

...



I have some door kick panels, some brass and a couple of Al ones. I
have used these before to make enclosures but in the past I always cut
them with a reciprocating saw then did a lot of filing to get the
edges straight and pretty. I was wondering if I could cut these using
my table saw. The motor is sealed so I don't have to worry about
getting metal shavings in it. Anyone here ever done this before. If so
what kind of blade did you use? Were there any special techniques you
applied?

It seems like this would save me a lot of finish work if I could do
it.

Jimmie- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, I tried using a carbide tipped blade to cut some thick aluminum
plate and will never do that again. There is an extreme tendency
toward kick back. The same blade performed well for cutting Al tubing
in my radial arm saw. I think the problem is mostly becase of the way
the angle at which the blade is ground. Perhaps installing the blade
backwards may solve this problem.

Jimmie

Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:
I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great
on antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting
vertical "slits" in aluminum tubing.

At last - someone using the right tool for the job! Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Well blush let's not heap too much praise on my solution... someone else
told me that this was the best/safest way to go. I clamp everything down
before lowering the blade onto it.

One other trick I use to prevent a bunch of metal debris from flying around:
my miter saw came with a cheap little "sawdust collector bag" that only
catches about 50% of the debris. I remove that bag and attach my shop vac
hose to the outlet from the saw. This works great and results in very little
debris (I still wear safety glasses and work gloves, of course).
--
-larry
K8UT
"Ian White GM3SEK" wrote in message
...
Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:
I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great on
antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting vertical
"slits" in aluminum tubing.

At last - someone using the right tool for the job! Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the dangers
of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to remove
the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

On Dec 16, 3:12*am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:
I bought a non-ferrous metal blade for my power miter saw - works great
on antenna aluminum projects - even built a special jig for cutting
vertical "slits" in aluminum tubing.

At last - someone using the right tool for the job! Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.

--

73 from Ian GM3SEK * * * * 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

I also believe in the right tool for the right job too but when I saw
the $80 USD price tag on the right blade using the wrong one became
more appealing. Also I had read a magazine article on using regular
carbide tipped tools meant for wood to cut non ferrous metal. The
article is WRONG, Its dangerous. I finished cutting my panels with a
jig saw. I lowered the table on drill press to make it flush with my
table saw to make use of it's fench as a guide and installed a mill in
the press. I used the mill to plane the edges of raw cuts. Unless I
ever find the occasion to do small production run this will be the
way I do it from now on.

Jimmie

Hey OM

I'd give my right kidney for a water jet cutter. 60,000 psi water out
of a saphire jet nozzle with a 10 mil opening feed by a high pressure
1/8 inch tubing. Uses only 1.2 gpm of water. Cuts even titatium like a
knife thru butter.

73 OM

n8zu

On Dec 16, 8:05*pm, raypsi wrote:
Hey OM

I'd give my right kidney for a water jet cutter. 60,000 psi water *out
of a saphire jet nozzle with a 10 mil opening feed by a high pressure
1/8 inch tubing. Uses only 1.2 gpm of water. Cuts even titatium like a
knife thru butter.

73 OM

n8zu

My cousin runs one or did. He is/was a civilian employee at a naval
base, he may be retired now.. I think he spent more time cutting parts
out for custom cars than anything else. I remember the first time I
saw the thing was in the early 80s and the computer that ran it took
up 3 or 4 rack cabinets and data for the pattern was put in on mylar
punch tape. The last time I saw it there were just a couple of PCs. He
has even used the thing to cut automotive glass. Slices through it
like the proverbial butter. There were rumors that Santa may bring me
a plasma tourch set this year but I don't think its going to happen.
He already remodeled my bathroom.


Jimmie

Jimmie

JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 16, 3:12*am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.



I also believe in the right tool for the right job too but when I saw
the $80 USD price tag on the right blade using the wrong one became
more appealing.

We can pay those prices for big-name industrial saw blades in Europe
too. However, a 10in/254mm blade with negative rake carbide teeth can
also be found for less than $30:
http://tinyurl.com/4lflw2

That's not so bad, and I'd guess that someone in the USA is selling them
too.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK

Delving further I surfed across a twin blade circular saw.
Two counter rotating circular blades that leave no burrs in aluminum.
Makes lots of aluminum waste though.

73 OM
n8zu

On Dec 17, 4:11*pm, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 16, 3:12*am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.

I also believe in the right tool for the right job too but when I saw
the $80 USD price tag on the right blade using the wrong one became
more appealing.

We can pay those prices for big-name industrial saw blades in Europe
too. However, a 10in/254mm blade with negative rake carbide teeth can
also be found for less than $30:http://tinyurl.com/4lflw2

That's not so bad, and I'd guess that someone in the USA is selling them
too.

--

73 from Ian GM3SEK

If anyone over here is selling them near that price I can't find them.
I may splurge a bit and get an $80 one.
A big piece of aluminum stuck between my fingers convinced me.


Jimmie

On Dec 18, 7:51 pm, JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 17, 4:11 pm, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:



JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 16, 3:12 am, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Circular saw blades
for non-ferrous metal cutting are specially designed to reduce the
dangers of jammed blades and flying metal.

As well as having many small teeth, the front cutting edge of each tooth
slopes slightly backward to avoid digging into the soft metal (known as
"negative rake"). Also the top profile of each tooth is designed to
remove the metal as small chips.

Even negative rake blades are not jam-proof, especially when cutting
through tubing. Half-way through the cut, it becomes very easy to hook a
tooth into the wall of the tube, and BANG - it jams. Larry is very right
to be using a jig to hold everything very firmly.

I also believe in the right tool for the right job too but when I saw
the $80 USD price tag on the right blade using the wrong one became
more appealing.

We can pay those prices for big-name industrial saw blades in Europe
too. However, a 10in/254mm blade with negative rake carbide teeth can
also be found for less than $30:http://tinyurl.com/4lflw2

That's not so bad, and I'd guess that someone in the USA is selling them
too.

--

73 from Ian GM3SEK

If anyone over here is selling them near that price I can't find them.
I may splurge a bit and get an $80 one.
A big piece of aluminum stuck between my fingers convinced me.

Jimmie

Hey OM

did you looky at harbor freight tools?

I seen a twin blade circular saw $60 only

73 OM

n8zu