What do you think about just replacing the batteries inside with new Ni-Cads
from the store? Any problems just soldering them together, or should I buy
"shaver" batteries with the terminals built in, though they are much more
money?
Here in Canada a replacement bat pac for a BC80xlt costs over $100.00 with
tax at Ratty Ole Shack, and their rebuild service costs just under the
$100!!! Perhaps there are Canadian readers here who can direct me to a cheap
supply??
Thanks all.

"Bill" wrote in message
...
What do you think about just replacing the batteries inside with new
Ni-Cads
from the store? Any problems just soldering them together, or should I buy
"shaver" batteries with the terminals built in, though they are much more
money?

Most batteries are very difficult to solder to if they do not have the
solder tabs built on. The material does not seem to take solder very well
and also you can over heat the battery. The solder tabs are usually spot
welded on.

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...
What do you think about just replacing the batteries inside with new
Ni-Cads
from the store? Any problems just soldering them together, or should I
buy
"shaver" batteries with the terminals built in, though they are much
more
money?

Most batteries are very difficult to solder to if they do not have the
solder tabs built on. The material does not seem to take solder very well
and also you can over heat the battery. The solder tabs are usually spot
welded on.

Thanks Ralph. We recycle here so I have a few to experiment on.
No suggestions for Canada dealers, What about prices in USA?

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...
What do you think about just replacing the batteries inside with new
Ni-Cads
from the store? Any problems just soldering them together, or should I
buy
"shaver" batteries with the terminals built in, though they are much
more
money?

Most batteries are very difficult to solder to if they do not have the
solder tabs built on. The material does not seem to take solder very
well
and also you can over heat the battery. The solder tabs are usually
spot
welded on.


I've "roughed" up the ends of nicads a bit - scratching them with a knife or
sandpaper or whatever, then spot "soldered" or "tinned" them prior to adding
any leads. I've had pretty good success doing that. Some cells do give
trouble not wanting to take solder, but most have done ok. IF you're good at
soldering, you should be able to do it with minimal heat to the battery.
I've rebuilt more packs than I can remember. My earlier problem was - in
experimenting - I used older cells with "some" life left. After a while they
did die and had to be replaced, sooner than newer cells of course. But then
I bought new cells and have had good luck with all packs. So, it isn't
impossible! MNS

I forgot to mention one thing. I've torn apart many packs when I was
scrapping for cells in a severe shortage. I had several packs here. I took a
fine pair of dikes and cut/peel the straps off just under them from the
battery. I reuse them to do other packs. THEY ARE SHARP... BE CAREFUL.
They'll get you like a razor or paper cut. In a pinch, I also use regular
wire as a strap. Small gauge, about 18 or higher. MNS


"MR NO SPAM" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...
What do you think about just replacing the batteries inside with new
Ni-Cads
from the store? Any problems just soldering them together, or should
I
buy
"shaver" batteries with the terminals built in, though they are much
more
money?

Most batteries are very difficult to solder to if they do not have the
solder tabs built on. The material does not seem to take solder very
well
and also you can over heat the battery. The solder tabs are usually
spot
welded on.


I've "roughed" up the ends of nicads a bit - scratching them with a knife
or
sandpaper or whatever, then spot "soldered" or "tinned" them prior to
adding
any leads. I've had pretty good success doing that. Some cells do give
trouble not wanting to take solder, but most have done ok. IF you're good
at
soldering, you should be able to do it with minimal heat to the battery.
I've rebuilt more packs than I can remember. My earlier problem was - in
experimenting - I used older cells with "some" life left. After a while
they
did die and had to be replaced, sooner than newer cells of course. But
then
I bought new cells and have had good luck with all packs. So, it isn't
impossible! MNS

"MR NO SPAM" wrote in message
...
I forgot to mention one thing. I've torn apart many packs when I was
scrapping for cells in a severe shortage. I had several packs here. I took
a
fine pair of dikes and cut/peel the straps off just under them from the
battery. I reuse them to do other packs. THEY ARE SHARP... BE CAREFUL.
They'll get you like a razor or paper cut. In a pinch, I also use regular
wire as a strap. Small gauge, about 18 or higher. MNS


"MR NO SPAM" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...
What do you think about just replacing the batteries inside with
new
Ni-Cads
from the store? Any problems just soldering them together, or
should
I
buy
"shaver" batteries with the terminals built in, though they are
much
more
money?

Most batteries are very difficult to solder to if they do not have
the
solder tabs built on. The material does not seem to take solder
very
well
and also you can over heat the battery. The solder tabs are usually
spot
welded on.


I've "roughed" up the ends of nicads a bit - scratching them with a
knife
or
sandpaper or whatever, then spot "soldered" or "tinned" them prior to
adding
any leads. I've had pretty good success doing that. Some cells do give
trouble not wanting to take solder, but most have done ok. IF you're
good
at
soldering, you should be able to do it with minimal heat to the battery.
I've rebuilt more packs than I can remember. My earlier problem was - in
experimenting - I used older cells with "some" life left. After a while
they
did die and had to be replaced, sooner than newer cells of course. But
then
I bought new cells and have had good luck with all packs. So, it isn't
impossible! MNS


Thanks guys. I do quite a bit of soldering but never tried doing batteries.
I couldn't imagine them being any harder than anything else, but I wasn't
sure. I suppose some people might skip the tinning process, but that is what
makes most jobs easier.
$100. plus tax sure scares me into trying a homebrew approach.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"MR NO SPAM" wrote in message
...
I forgot to mention one thing. I've torn apart many packs when I was
scrapping for cells in a severe shortage. I had several packs here. I
took
a
fine pair of dikes and cut/peel the straps off just under them from the
battery. I reuse them to do other packs. THEY ARE SHARP... BE CAREFUL.
They'll get you like a razor or paper cut. In a pinch, I also use
regular
wire as a strap. Small gauge, about 18 or higher. MNS


"MR NO SPAM" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...
What do you think about just replacing the batteries inside with
new
Ni-Cads
from the store? Any problems just soldering them together, or
should
I
buy
"shaver" batteries with the terminals built in, though they are
much
more
money?

Most batteries are very difficult to solder to if they do not have
the
solder tabs built on. The material does not seem to take solder
very
well
and also you can over heat the battery. The solder tabs are
usually
spot
welded on.


I've "roughed" up the ends of nicads a bit - scratching them with a
knife
or
sandpaper or whatever, then spot "soldered" or "tinned" them prior to
adding
any leads. I've had pretty good success doing that. Some cells do give
trouble not wanting to take solder, but most have done ok. IF you're
good
at
soldering, you should be able to do it with minimal heat to the
battery.
I've rebuilt more packs than I can remember. My earlier problem was -
in
experimenting - I used older cells with "some" life left. After a
while
they
did die and had to be replaced, sooner than newer cells of course. But
then
I bought new cells and have had good luck with all packs. So, it isn't
impossible! MNS


Thanks guys. I do quite a bit of soldering but never tried doing
batteries.
I couldn't imagine them being any harder than anything else, but I wasn't
sure. I suppose some people might skip the tinning process, but that is
what
makes most jobs easier.
$100. plus tax sure scares me into trying a homebrew approach.



Yeah, $100 is a nice drop of cash. The cells can probably be had for about
$10 depending on quantity and size you're in need of. IF you go to a hamfest
and find a few junkers laying around, some will no doubt have some good
cells left. I'm not implying you use those. My point here is to use the OLD
packs for "practice" AND parts, like the straps. There are insulators as
well in some packs. MNS

Word of caution: Do NOT forget the warning on the side of the nicads. While
I've yet to see one explode from heat, I've felt a couple get pretty damned
hot - while working with them. I guess it depends on their internal state.
And that was when trying to put solder on the ones that seemed to resist
taking it. IF the battery is going to take the solder at all, it should flow
on to it, like it would onto a piece of wire or a component lead and
likewise - be a quick hit with the iron. So, be careful with the heat... if
too much of it doesn't make the cell burst, it can fry it to render it
useless.
It's not impossible to do, but there are precautions.

As to nicads getting hot and bursting otherwise, I've seen it happen. I know
a guy who had a few spares in his pocket for an HT at a hamfest. He was
walking around, felt his trousers getting hot, then smelled smoke. They
caught his trousers on fire. He had some keys or change in his pocket and
well you know the rest of the story!
MNS.