I have just about finished restoring and re-calibrating a 47 year old HQ-145. I
have only one issue left.

The input stage for the first rf amplifier uses slug tuned inductances. The slug
adjustments proceeded normally for the BC, 160-80, and 40 meter bands. The slug
for the 20 through 10 meter band is "STUCK".

The inductance is packaged in a typical i.f. can with top and bottom openings.
Does anyone have any 'hints and kinks' for unsticking the slug? BTW, the radio
is operating on 20 meters and responds moderately well to a signal generator on
10 meters. I would just like to peak the response.

Ideas??

/s/ DD, W1MCE

Dave wrote:
I have just about finished restoring and re-calibrating a 47 year old
HQ-145. I have only one issue left.

The input stage for the first rf amplifier uses slug tuned inductances.
The slug adjustments proceeded normally for the BC, 160-80, and 40 meter
bands. The slug for the 20 through 10 meter band is "STUCK".

Oftentimes what appears to be a stuck slug is actually a broken slug.
If the slug has a hexagonal, square, or triangular hole that passes through
its center, and the slug splits along that hole, the tuning wand will cam
the two halves of the slug tightly against the walls of the coil form, and
the harder you turn, the tighter the slug will hang on.

The answer to this sort of problem is to glue the slug halves together with
crazy glue. A single dot of glue, inside the slug's hole, applied directly to
the crack with a toothpick will do the trick. The amount of glue must be very
small. Less is more in this case.

An alternate method is to glue a round toothpick into the broken slug with epoxy.
Again, dip the toothpick into the epoxy, and slide it into the hole without
touching the coil form. Use the minimum amount of glue that will stick the pick
into the slug's tuning hole.


-Chuck

"Chuck Harris" wrote in message
...
Dave wrote:
I have just about finished restoring and re-calibrating a 47 year old
HQ-145. I have only one issue left.

The input stage for the first rf amplifier uses slug tuned inductances.
The slug adjustments proceeded normally for the BC, 160-80, and 40 meter
bands. The slug for the 20 through 10 meter band is "STUCK".

Oftentimes what appears to be a stuck slug is actually a broken slug.
If the slug has a hexagonal, square, or triangular hole that passes
through
its center, and the slug splits along that hole, the tuning wand will cam
the two halves of the slug tightly against the walls of the coil form, and
the harder you turn, the tighter the slug will hang on.

The answer to this sort of problem is to glue the slug halves together
with
crazy glue. A single dot of glue, inside the slug's hole, applied
directly to
the crack with a toothpick will do the trick. The amount of glue must be
very
small. Less is more in this case.

An alternate method is to glue a round toothpick into the broken slug with
epoxy.
Again, dip the toothpick into the epoxy, and slide it into the hole
without
touching the coil form. Use the minimum amount of glue that will stick
the pick
into the slug's tuning hole.


-Chuck

Many of the forms used in the HQ145 are made of a very cheap
plastic that has become extremely brittle and friable with age.
Something else to watch for.


Pete

Yechhh! I hate it when this happens!

I have experienced this several times in the last few years, the most recent
being this past week while aligning a 60s vintage transmitter. My personal
experience is that glueing the broken slug back together has never worked
for me. Apparently the breach throws off the properties of ferrite slug.
What always has worked best for me is to swallow hard, utter the words "damn
it" and then proceed to repair the problem. My repair is to VERY CAREFULLY
pick out the broken pieces with a needle nose pliers. Nibble away at the old
slug with the pliers if necessary until you've removed the old slug like a
decayed tooth. . Drilling it out does nothing except twist the plastic core
around the bit and ruin it. I then replace the slug with a comparable one
found in the transformer can of a 60s vintage stereo receiver I keep on hand
for just such parts.
By the way, I have performed "autopsies" on defective slug coils by razor
cutting them down their sides and each time has revealed the slug was lodged
in a cross-threaded configuration. I have never been able to free a cross
thread inside a coil.

W9STB

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I have just about finished restoring and re-calibrating a 47 year old
HQ-145. I
have only one issue left.

The input stage for the first rf amplifier uses slug tuned inductances.
The slug
adjustments proceeded normally for the BC, 160-80, and 40 meter bands. The
slug
for the 20 through 10 meter band is "STUCK".

The inductance is packaged in a typical i.f. can with top and bottom
openings.
Does anyone have any 'hints and kinks' for unsticking the slug? BTW, the
radio
is operating on 20 meters and responds moderately well to a signal
generator on
10 meters. I would just like to peak the response.

Ideas??

/s/ DD, W1MCE

I have tried a number of frustrating methods to remove the broken slug - all
to no avail. I did repair a number of slugs in the HQ-145. I ended up
making new coils with new forms and new slugs.

But, I think Chuck has the right and only approach. The problem is that the
core breaks and acts as a cam. Once someone tries too hard, bits fall off
the slug which will cinch the destruction. But, if before any particles end
up between the core and the threaded form, the super glue can be used to
secure the core enough to preventing it from "camming", then the core can be
removed. Once it is removed, I think it can be glued properly with
superglue. If you decide to use a different core, it must be the same
material - not just the same thread.

I think I would probably illuminate a led and insert it into the bottom of
the core and press on the form just before using the superglue to center the
core.

The core may actually be more unreplaceable than the form. In some cases it
might be a good choice to destroy the form to save the core - then glue the
core fully and make a new form. It is possible to get a form slightly
larger and use hot melt to create threads for the core. Something like a
large straw might work as a form.

73, Colin K7FM

Smokey wrote:
Yechhh! I hate it when this happens!
I have experienced this several times in the last few years, the most recent
being this past week while aligning a 60s vintage transmitter. My personal
experience is that glueing the broken slug back together has never worked
for me. Apparently the breach throws off the properties of ferrite slug.

It does, UNLESS you use a ferrite cement intended for just that application.
GC Electronics makes some that I have used with success before.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

This has been, I should say, was a problem for me until I found out just
what to do. I lay the coil on its side and sneak up to it with a 1 pound
ballpeen hammer. I good "SHAMACK" and its not a problem anymore. Makes me
feel better to.

--
Regards,
Gary...WZ1M
"Dave" wrote in message
...
I have just about finished restoring and re-calibrating a 47 year old
HQ-145. I
have only one issue left.

The input stage for the first rf amplifier uses slug tuned inductances.
The slug
adjustments proceeded normally for the BC, 160-80, and 40 meter bands. The
slug
for the 20 through 10 meter band is "STUCK".

The inductance is packaged in a typical i.f. can with top and bottom
openings.
Does anyone have any 'hints and kinks' for unsticking the slug? BTW, the
radio
is operating on 20 meters and responds moderately well to a signal
generator on
10 meters. I would just like to peak the response.

Ideas??

/s/ DD, W1MCE

I've heard about this procedure before. The individual who informed me suggested
that I include a small piece of steel in the adjustment hole prior to the
SHAMACK [I guess SHAMACK was used because it is St. Paddy's day]. After the
SHAMACK take a needle nose and bend the steel wire into a broad 1/2 loop.

File one end until it is sharp, then go fishin'.

Do I understand your suggestion properly?

:-)

DD, W1MCE

gkb wrote:

This has been, I should say, was a problem for me until I found out just
what to do. I lay the coil on its side and sneak up to it with a 1 pound
ballpeen hammer. I good "SHAMACK" and its not a problem anymore. Makes me
feel better to.

I usually hot glue it on the wall as a constant reminder. WOW, running out
wall room, hehehehehe

--
Regards,
Gary...WZ1M
"Dave" wrote in message
. ..
I've heard about this procedure before. The individual who informed me
suggested
that I include a small piece of steel in the adjustment hole prior to the
SHAMACK [I guess SHAMACK was used because it is St. Paddy's day]. After
the
SHAMACK take a needle nose and bend the steel wire into a broad 1/2 loop.

File one end until it is sharp, then go fishin'.

Do I understand your suggestion properly?

:-)

DD, W1MCE

gkb wrote:

This has been, I should say, was a problem for me until I found out just
what to do. I lay the coil on its side and sneak up to it with a 1 pound
ballpeen hammer. I good "SHAMACK" and its not a problem anymore. Makes
me
feel better to.