I am restoring a Hallicrafter's S-38, and wonder where I might find
the type of headphones that would fit the little double pin inputs on
the back. I have only seen the "jack" style.
Thanks
--
"What do you mean there's no movie?"

wrote in message
news:qon2qBoLzSnd-pn2-3edqupirsVH8@localhost...
I am restoring a Hallicrafter's S-38, and wonder where I might find
the type of headphones that would fit the little double pin inputs on
the back. I have only seen the "jack" style.
Thanks
--
"What do you mean there's no movie?"

Vintage headphones came with the tip plugs. Trimm and Brandes were the most
popular. My guess is you could find a set for a reasonable amount of money
on eBay. You can get the pins from vintage electronic supply houses and
convert more modern headsets if you so desire.

Do a search on Ebay for "vintage headphones". There are many older
'phones that will do nicely for you. Just try and ensure that they're
functional and that the cotton-covered cords, etc. are not all ratted
out. There are also some imported copies of the old military HS-16 up
for auction from time to time. They work fine and have pin-type plugs
on them. Be careful of them, though. They often go for astronomical
prices due to unknowing persons.

wrote:

I am restoring a Hallicrafter's S-38, and wonder where I might find
the type of headphones that would fit the little double pin inputs on
the back. I have only seen the "jack" style.
Thanks

K3HVG wrote:
Do a search on Ebay for "vintage headphones". There are many older
'phones that will do nicely for you. Just try and ensure that they're
functional and that the cotton-covered cords, etc. are not all ratted
out. There are also some imported copies of the old military HS-16 up
for auction from time to time. They work fine and have pin-type plugs
on them. Be careful of them, though. They often go for astronomical
prices due to unknowing persons.

wrote:

I am restoring a Hallicrafter's S-38, and wonder where I might find
the type of headphones that would fit the little double pin inputs on
the back. I have only seen the "jack" style.
Thanks

Many of the older 'phones use a cloth covered "Litz" type wire. This
stuff requires crimp connectors. Trying to convert from one type of
connector to another is a nightmare! Some 1/4 in plugs are designed
to clamp the old pin connectors under screwheads.
Let me restate this a bit better. If you are looking for a set of
phones for the S-38, try to find some with the original pins on the
wires or if they have a phone plug, make sure it's the type that
utilizes the original pin connectors. Stay away from phones where
someone has removed the pins and put on a plug.

73, Roger


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"Roger D Johnson" wrote in message
...
K3HVG wrote:

Many of the older 'phones use a cloth covered "Litz" type wire. This
stuff requires crimp connectors. Trying to convert from one type of
connector to another is a nightmare!


That's putting it mildly, never could get all those wires in that tip much
less get them to stay. RM~

They're right!!! I'm sitting here looking at a Trimm headset with the
frizzy wires and a big old Philmore phone plug... Actually, I have, in
the past, been able to "sort of" tin that type wire.. it burns off the
fabric content part. Only problem, its very delicate after all that. HI!!!

Rob Mills wrote:
"Roger D Johnson" wrote in message
...

K3HVG wrote:


Many of the older 'phones use a cloth covered "Litz" type wire. This

stuff requires crimp connectors. Trying to convert from one type of
connector to another is a nightmare!


That's putting it mildly, never could get all those wires in that tip much
less get them to stay. RM~

In article ,
K3HVG wrote:

They're right!!! I'm sitting here looking at a Trimm headset with the
frizzy wires and a big old Philmore phone plug... Actually, I have, in
the past, been able to "sort of" tin that type wire.. it burns off the
fabric content part. Only problem, its very delicate after all that. HI!!!

It's called 'Tinselflex' in .UK, I think, and yes: it's loathesome stuff.

I think the original (pre-crimp) termination method was to bind it to
a piece of tinned copper wire for a length of about 3/4", form the
bound-in portion into a loop to fit the screw, then bind the free to
the main part to close the loop and apply an insulating and colour coded
whipping of silk thread to stop it coming undone.

I've been known to roll it in copper foil, ram that into a crimp tah
and then squeeze as hard as possible. It usually works unless you
need a very small tag....

Chris. (At some point I've got to do 4 ends the old-fashioned way, to
repair a WS-18 Morse Key - someone chopped the loops off because they
only needed the key jack and not the Tx/Rx connector. I'm not looking
forward to this.)

--
'Did you know that a cow was *MURDERED* to make that jacket?'
'Yes. I didn't think there were any witnesses,
so I guess I'll have to kill you too.' -Jake Johansen

Rob Mills wrote:



stuff requires crimp connectors. Trying to convert from one type of
connector to another is a nightmare!


That's putting it mildly, never could get all those wires in that tip much
less get them to stay. RM~

The trick is to "whip" or wrap the ends of the tinsel wire with a small
gauge solid wire. Thats not particularly easy either but it works and
is neat. Working a couple inches back from the end helps a lot - then
cut off the excess.

-Bill

"- exray -" wrote in message
...
Rob Mills wrote:



stuff requires crimp connectors. Trying to convert from one type of
connector to another is a nightmare!


That's putting it mildly, never could get all those wires in that tip
much less get them to stay. RM~

The trick is to "whip" or wrap the ends of the tinsel wire with a small
gauge solid wire. Thats not particularly easy either but it works and is
neat. Working a couple inches back from the end helps a lot - then cut
off the excess.

-Bill

What about impedance matching?
Not familar with S-38 but my S-53 originally had a similar arrangement;
namely pin jacks and a small slide switch to switch from speaker to
head-phones.
That's now converted to a plug in quarter inch jack at rear of my S-53;
speaker disconnects when head-phones plugged in. But both speaker and phones
use the same output winding of the audio output transformer in the plate of
the S-53s 6K6 output tube.**
So if the S-38 is similar it suggests that the audio output is 'low
impedance'.
If someone used high impedance phones one might expect poor audio quality?
Not that high fidelity is normally a requirement when using headphones on a
shortwave 'communications type" receiver!
Or were those 'vintage' type phones that have been mentioned, in foregoing,
low/medium impedance anyway?
One reason I ask is that I have old German headphones in which, I think this
is correct, each earpiece is 2000 ohms; total 4000, probably originally for
a crystal set? I do know that you can hold one lead in hand and touch
almost anything metal with the other lead and get electrical noise!
Sensitive eh?

Impedances: Plate = say 5000 ohms. Speaker = 4 ohms. Phones = 600 ohms.
Therefo
5000/ 4 = 1250 transformer turns ratio = sq root of 1250 = 35
5000/600 = 8.4 transformer turns ratio = sq root of 8.4 = 2.9

Terry wrote:

What about impedance matching?
Not familar with S-38 but my S-53 originally had a similar arrangement;
namely pin jacks and a small slide switch to switch from speaker to
head-phones.
That's now converted to a plug in quarter inch jack at rear of my S-53;
speaker disconnects when head-phones plugged in. But both speaker and phones
use the same output winding of the audio output transformer in the plate of
the S-53s 6K6 output tube.**
So if the S-38 is similar it suggests that the audio output is 'low
impedance'.
If someone used high impedance phones one might expect poor audio quality?
Not that high fidelity is normally a requirement when using headphones on a
shortwave 'communications type" receiver!
Or were those 'vintage' type phones that have been mentioned, in foregoing,
low/medium impedance anyway?
One reason I ask is that I have old German headphones in which, I think this
is correct, each earpiece is 2000 ohms; total 4000, probably originally for
a crystal set? I do know that you can hold one lead in hand and touch
almost anything metal with the other lead and get electrical noise!
Sensitive eh?

Impedances: Plate = say 5000 ohms. Speaker = 4 ohms. Phones = 600 ohms.
Therefo
5000/ 4 = 1250 transformer turns ratio = sq root of 1250 = 35
5000/600 = 8.4 transformer turns ratio = sq root of 8.4 = 2.9



Actually, you don't want an impedance match here. If you matched the
impedance and put 1/2 watt or so of audio into the headphones, you
would probably burst your eardrums! Most headphones will produce
adequate audio with just a few milliwatts of power.

73, Roger


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