I unwisely forgot the radio, with alkaline cells in it, in one of the
the worse places: my car's glove compartment, in high summer, in
southern Europe.

When I found it I feared the worst. The new batteries were dead, and
it took a while to get them out. Dried remains of leaked battery fluid
were all over the battery compartment.


- Are there any good directions on how to open this tiny and fragile
radio?

- What's the best way of removing the dry and powdery crust?

- is the circuitry static sensitive enough to risk being zapped of I
use a brush to clean it? Should I use a slightly wet brush, or would
it make matters worse?

On Jul 29, 12:32 pm, wrote:
I unwisely forgot the radio, with alkaline cells in it, in one of the
the worse places: my car's glove compartment, in high summer, in
southern Europe.

When I found it I feared the worst. The new batteries were dead, and
it took a while to get them out. Dried remains of leaked battery fluid
were all over the battery compartment.

- Are there any good directions on how to open this tiny and fragile
radio?

If you haven't opened tiny and fragile radios before I would entrust
it to someone who has. The Sony service center is one possibility or
someone who specializes in the repair of radios.


- What's the best way of removing the dry and powdery crust?


Brushing it out of the battery compartment. Don't use compressed
air. The unknown is whether the leakage has dissolved battery
contacts and damaged electronics. Once it is cleaned up the smoke
test will tell whether it works.


- is the circuitry static sensitive enough to risk being zapped of I
use a brush to clean it? Should I use a slightly wet brush, or would
it make matters worse?

You will create a nasty paste, so no do it dry.

On Aug 1, 12:14 pm, D Peter Maus wrote:
Tammy Troot wrote:
Hi,

Here is a link to a site that will give you information on how to dissemble
the radio.http://www.tesp.com/sw100faq.htm#fixed

I once fitted new ribbon cables to mine and found it to be quite tricky
and required a large illuminated magnifying glass and very steady hands!

As regards the removal of corrosion, I have never found a cure for it's
removal on other pieces of electronic equipment.

Good luck,

Tom

Once the corrosion has begun, there's no way to reverse the damage,
only stop the corrosive action. Various recommendations suggest using a
thick backing soda paste followed by vigorous and careful rinsing.

I've used this method with mixed results.

The biggest issue, once the corrosion has begun, is that the hard
plate is removed from the base metal, so oxidation is likely to occur
once corrosion has stopped and the metal cleaned.

There, I can help.

Once the corrosive material has been removed and the corrosion
process stopped, contacts can be cleaned with a dremel tool and
polishing rouge. This removes the rough and oxidation prone corroded
metal product, and rough base metal, returning the metal to a smooth
contact surface.

Coating the metal, then, with a neutral grease will slow further
oxidation. You may then have to clean the contact from time to time, but
serviceability will remain assured for as long as you own the radio.

Easy does it on the grease. "Just enough" is good. Too much will be
messy. And magically, appear only on your best or favorite white shirts.

You don't wear a white shirt to a barbecue joint for the same reason.

Natural greases with high pressure additives are not recommended.
First of all, they smell. Second, without a lot of high temp activity,
they will trap moisture, and will create more problems down the road.
Synthetic greases are good. Teflon greases are iffy, since some carriers
are water soluble and lead to some real nasty corrosion of their own.
Especially on zinc and aluminum. Petroleum Jelly works, if you check
frequently and clean regularly

Treating the contact, after cleaning but before applying the grease,
with DeOxit wouldn't hurt.

If you take your time, be thorough, you need not have any further
problem with your radio. It won't be 'maintenance free' but it won't
give you any problems, either.

p- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

DPM - On such a micro-sized 'portable' Radio like the
Sony ICF-SW-100 the Printed Circuit Traces on the
Circuit Boards are Screaming . . .
http://www.dooyoo.co.uk/portable-rad...100-e/details/
Oh No Corrosion - WE ARE DOOMED ! ~ RHF

RHF wrote:
On Aug 1, 12:14 pm, D Peter Maus wrote:
Tammy Troot wrote:
Hi,
Here is a link to a site that will give you information on how to dissemble
the radio.http://www.tesp.com/sw100faq.htm#fixed
I once fitted new ribbon cables to mine and found it to be quite tricky
and required a large illuminated magnifying glass and very steady hands!
As regards the removal of corrosion, I have never found a cure for it's
removal on other pieces of electronic equipment.
Good luck,
Tom
Once the corrosion has begun, there's no way to reverse the damage,
only stop the corrosive action. Various recommendations suggest using a
thick backing soda paste followed by vigorous and careful rinsing.

I've used this method with mixed results.

The biggest issue, once the corrosion has begun, is that the hard
plate is removed from the base metal, so oxidation is likely to occur
once corrosion has stopped and the metal cleaned.

There, I can help.

Once the corrosive material has been removed and the corrosion
process stopped, contacts can be cleaned with a dremel tool and
polishing rouge. This removes the rough and oxidation prone corroded
metal product, and rough base metal, returning the metal to a smooth
contact surface.

Coating the metal, then, with a neutral grease will slow further
oxidation. You may then have to clean the contact from time to time, but
serviceability will remain assured for as long as you own the radio.

Easy does it on the grease. "Just enough" is good. Too much will be
messy. And magically, appear only on your best or favorite white shirts.

You don't wear a white shirt to a barbecue joint for the same reason.

Natural greases with high pressure additives are not recommended.
First of all, they smell. Second, without a lot of high temp activity,
they will trap moisture, and will create more problems down the road.
Synthetic greases are good. Teflon greases are iffy, since some carriers
are water soluble and lead to some real nasty corrosion of their own.
Especially on zinc and aluminum. Petroleum Jelly works, if you check
frequently and clean regularly

Treating the contact, after cleaning but before applying the grease,
with DeOxit wouldn't hurt.

If you take your time, be thorough, you need not have any further
problem with your radio. It won't be 'maintenance free' but it won't
give you any problems, either.

p- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

DPM - On such a micro-sized 'portable' Radio like the
Sony ICF-SW-100 the Printed Circuit Traces on the
Circuit Boards are Screaming . . .
http://www.dooyoo.co.uk/portable-rad...100-e/details/
Oh No Corrosion - WE ARE DOOMED ! ~ RHF
.
.
. .


Careful attention, the processes still apply.

Hi,

After doing a cable/hinge mod to this set , I would have second thoughts
about
dismantling and eventually trying to remove corrotion on this particular
radio.

You are in effect performing "micro-surgery" here. Good Luck in not damaging
the
very miniscule and delicate circuits and components.

Putting it back together again is also a big challenge.

I would say I was more lucky than I could hope for , dismantling a 100%
working
set to do the mod and sucessfully putting ity back together again.

At least , if the set is dead - you have nothing to loose apart from the
time spent.

So if you have the time and the patience and the know how, Good Luck!

Now you have been warned

Greetings,
Knut Otterbeck

"D Peter Maus" skrev i melding
...
RHF wrote:
On Aug 1, 12:14 pm, D Peter Maus wrote:
Tammy Troot wrote:
Hi,
Here is a link to a site that will give you information on how to
dissemble
the radio.http://www.tesp.com/sw100faq.htm#fixed
I once fitted new ribbon cables to mine and found it to be quite tricky
and required a large illuminated magnifying glass and very steady
hands!
As regards the removal of corrosion, I have never found a cure for it's
removal on other pieces of electronic equipment.
Good luck,
Tom
Once the corrosion has begun, there's no way to reverse the damage,
only stop the corrosive action. Various recommendations suggest using a
thick backing soda paste followed by vigorous and careful rinsing.

I've used this method with mixed results.

The biggest issue, once the corrosion has begun, is that the hard
plate is removed from the base metal, so oxidation is likely to occur
once corrosion has stopped and the metal cleaned.

There, I can help.

Once the corrosive material has been removed and the corrosion
process stopped, contacts can be cleaned with a dremel tool and
polishing rouge. This removes the rough and oxidation prone corroded
metal product, and rough base metal, returning the metal to a smooth
contact surface.

Coating the metal, then, with a neutral grease will slow further
oxidation. You may then have to clean the contact from time to time, but
serviceability will remain assured for as long as you own the radio.

Easy does it on the grease. "Just enough" is good. Too much will be
messy. And magically, appear only on your best or favorite white shirts.

You don't wear a white shirt to a barbecue joint for the same reason.

Natural greases with high pressure additives are not recommended.
First of all, they smell. Second, without a lot of high temp activity,
they will trap moisture, and will create more problems down the road.
Synthetic greases are good. Teflon greases are iffy, since some carriers
are water soluble and lead to some real nasty corrosion of their own.
Especially on zinc and aluminum. Petroleum Jelly works, if you check
frequently and clean regularly

Treating the contact, after cleaning but before applying the grease,
with DeOxit wouldn't hurt.

If you take your time, be thorough, you need not have any further
problem with your radio. It won't be 'maintenance free' but it won't
give you any problems, either.

p- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

DPM - On such a micro-sized 'portable' Radio like the
Sony ICF-SW-100 the Printed Circuit Traces on the
Circuit Boards are Screaming . . .
http://www.dooyoo.co.uk/portable-rad...100-e/details/
Oh No Corrosion - WE ARE DOOMED ! ~ RHF
.
.
. .


Careful attention, the processes still apply.

On Thu, 02 Aug 2007 20:57:13 -0400, Zeke Zzzppt
wrote:

David wrote:

You have to use mild acid on alkaline battery ooze. White vinegar is
a good choice. Use a flux brush. Rinse with anhydrol, then distilled
water. Dry with gentle warm dry air (or leave it in the sun for a
day).

1) As far as I can tell, "anhydrol" is 85% ethanol and 12 % isopropanol
and methanol. Where do you buy anhydrol and why not just use hardware
store alcohol (shellac thinner)?

2) Wouldn't it be better to use the anhydrol/alcohol as the final step
(or just skip the water entirely), rather than water as the last step?
The alcohol will evaporate much more quickly than the water.

The water free alcohol is to wash away any salts left over. I like to
use pure water after the alcohol wash because it's pure water.

On Aug 3, 6:29 am, David wrote:
On Thu, 02 Aug 2007 20:57:13 -0400, Zeke Zzzppt
wrote:

David wrote:

You have to use mild acid on alkaline battery ooze. White vinegar is
a good choice. Use a flux brush. Rinse with anhydrol, then distilled
water. Dry with gentle warm dry air (or leave it in the sun for a
day).

1) As far as I can tell, "anhydrol" is 85% ethanol and 12 % isopropanol
and methanol. Where do you buy anhydrol and why not just use hardware
store alcohol (shellac thinner)?

2) Wouldn't it be better to use the anhydrol/alcohol as the final step
(or just skip the water entirely), rather than water as the last step?
The alcohol will evaporate much more quickly than the water.

- The water free alcohol is to wash away any salts left over.

Without desolving the salts and causing more corrosion.

- I like to use pure water after the alcohol wash because it's pure
water.

To flush out the area and cleanse it.