Tuuk wrote:

Another side question, do you know a online dealer who sells replacement
batteries for that? I would like the FNB 27 with NMHD. I did a search and
found some that were 40 or 50 dollars plus shipping. If someone knows a
trustworthy source that is economical please let me know the link, thanks

IMHO it's a moot point. Buy a battery pack that takes AA batteries. The best
ones being the slow self discharge NiMH batteries. Then you can charge
it in a charger designed for AA NiMH batteries, or use an external charger
that works with the battery but charges based on the proper way of
charging NIMH batteries.

Too many chargers of that era charge by dumping power into them until they
overheat and then shut off. The result is cooked batteries. NiMH batteries
always overheat when charged that way.

New (available at least 15 years ago), stop charging when the voltage out of
the cell dips, which indicates full charge. They can be purchased cheaply
in many places.

Geoff.



--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM
My high blood pressure medicine reduces my midichlorian count. :-(

The noise you are hearing from the electric meter is probably the automatic reporting system, be it RF - where the meter reader either needs to get close for a electronic hand held device to read it, or a radio / computer inside of the truck reads it, or it puts a signal into the line which is read back at the substation.

The RF you are getting off your cell phone type devices is Digital RF.
3G or 4G phones has a continuous stream of information going to and from the tower. That is how you get your phone calls and text messages and information off the internet.

Basically the bottom line is - new hams has a serious problem today and that is that there is no network of Elmers to teach new hams anything.
Most people passes the 35 question, multiple guess test and they get their license and then the clubs leave them out to hang.

People by nature, aren't very bright, and they do not understand how communication works, especially the broadcasting part and radio waves.
Hence after they get their license, they look for the cheapest option to get on the air the fastest, which usually involves some type of handheld radio.

A handheld radio, by design, is designed to be used for things like civic events, club functions and two way communications between hams, with a occasional use into a local repeater.
A handheld radio was never designed to be used as a primary type device for communications, nor does it have much range with it's rubber duckie antenna, especially indoors.

The goal in communications is to get the antenna above the noise level inside of the house, which requires a good outdoors antenna.
The problem is - the handheld radio is most efficient when using a rubber duckie antenna - due to the fact that there is very little loss between the BNC connector and the antenna when you do not have any coax between.

Basically you have found out what it takes some people years to understand, that is that a handheld radio is no good for primary communications, if you want to call yourself a ham radio operator.

You have several basic options -

You could buy a mobile 40 - 50 watt radio and a power supply and a outdoors antenna and share the radio between the mobile and the base station.

You could buy a dedicated base station radio.

You could study and get your General Class license, which would justify spending even more money on a more complex UHF / VHF / HF radio such as a 706 Mark II G or a 849D...... Which would do all the bands - both mobile and in the shack.

Or you could invest in some really good coax and some type of repeater antenna such as a Diamond or Comet and put the antenna outdoors and as high up as you can get it above the roof. Which in my personal opinion isn't the best option because the antenna and or coax will cost more then the radio, depending on how many feet of coax you need and how much you will have to invest to buy pipe and a mount and ground wire, clamps and a stake.

Welcome to Amateur Radio!