"Krypsis" wrote in message
u...
On 13/06/2010 10:26 PM, Brian Gregory [UK] wrote:
wrote in message
...
Never heard of such a thing. I use insulators at each end, and in the
old days I used a neon bulb or a 12V tail light bulb as a bleed off. I
went to gas discharge tube arrestors a long time ago. The 12V bulb made
a really nice light show on winter days when the wind was really going.

What kind of buld exactly is a "12V tail light bulb"?


An automotive 12 volt, 5 watt bulb (globe) with (usually) a bayonet
fitting. You can get bulbs that have dual filaments, one filament for tail
lights, the other for brake or indicator lights. The brake/indicator light
filament has a higher wattage rating (21 - 25 Watts) so the bayonet
typically has staggered locating pins. This prevents the higher wattage
rating being used as the tail light filament.

http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/light...or-globes.html

New technology is seeing the incandescent bulbs being superseded by LED
arrays.

Krypsis

But that would most definitely not light from the static electricity induced
in an antenna wire on a stormy night and would shunt away much of the wanted
signal anyway.

So I think BDK must mean something else.

Either that or he's making it up as he goes.

--

Brian Gregory. (In the UK)

To email me remove the letter vee.

On Jun 13, 12:16*pm, "Brian Gregory [UK]" wrote:
"Krypsis" wrote in message

u...





On 13/06/2010 10:26 PM, Brian Gregory [UK] wrote:
*wrote in message
...
Never heard of such a thing. I use insulators at each end, and in the
old days I used a neon bulb or a 12V tail light bulb as a bleed off. I
went to gas discharge tube arrestors a long time ago. The 12V bulb made
a really nice light show on winter days when the wind was really going.

What kind of buld exactly is a "12V tail light bulb"?

An automotive 12 volt, 5 watt bulb (globe) with (usually) a bayonet
fitting. You can get bulbs that have dual filaments, one filament for tail
lights, the other for brake or indicator lights. The brake/indicator light
filament has a higher wattage rating (21 - 25 Watts) so the bayonet
typically has staggered locating pins. This prevents the higher wattage
rating being used as the tail light filament.

http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/light...l-and-indicato...

New technology is seeing the incandescent bulbs being superseded by LED
arrays.

Krypsis

But that would most definitely not light from the static electricity induced
in an antenna wire on a stormy night and would shunt away much of the wanted
signal anyway.

So I think BDK must mean something else.

Either that or he's making it up as he goes.

Isn't that what most of us do with antennas? ;-)

Article I read in a motorbike magazine back in the 1970s.Somebody said
in that article to not solder the wires.He said that makes them brittle
and vibration can make them fail.I believe in soldering them, meself.
cuhulin

wrote:
Article I read in a motorbike magazine back in the 1970s.Somebody said
in that article to not solder the wires.He said that makes them brittle
and vibration can make them fail.I believe in soldering them, meself.
cuhulin


Do not tin wires that you are going to crimp.

Do not "double strike" when you crimp.

On Jun 13, 4:42*pm, dave wrote:
wrote:
Article I read in a motorbike magazine back in the 1970s.Somebody said
in that article to not solder the wires.He said that makes them brittle
and vibration can make them fail.I believe in soldering them, meself.
cuhulin

Do not tin wires that you are going to crimp.

Do not "double strike" when you crimp.

On this last, why not? Is there some weakening that occurs?

bpnjensen wrote:
On Jun 13, 4:42 pm, wrote:
wrote:
Article I read in a motorbike magazine back in the 1970s.Somebody said
in that article to not solder the wires.He said that makes them brittle
and vibration can make them fail.I believe in soldering them, meself.
cuhulin

Do not tin wires that you are going to crimp.

Do not "double strike" when you crimp.

On this last, why not? Is there some weakening that occurs?

Depends on the crimper, but a good one only needs one squeeze and yes
the second squeeze can make the joint less secure.

On Jun 13, 4:21*pm, bpnjensen wrote:
On Jun 13, 4:42*pm, dave wrote:

wrote:
Article I read in a motorbike magazine back in the 1970s.Somebody said
in that article to not solder the wires.He said that makes them brittle
and vibration can make them fail.I believe in soldering them, meself.
cuhulin

Do not tin wires that you are going to crimp.

- - Do not "double strike" when you crimp.

- On this last, why not?
- Is there some weakening that occurs?

A good solid strong single Crimp 'sets' it's
Contact {Compression} Points and nothing
more is required. {Optimum}

The second Crimp often disturbs these Contact
{Compression} Points and may in-fact reduce
the hold {efficiency} of some or all of them.
* Often nothing is gain and sometimes there is
a loss of a solid crimp. {bad crimp job}
+ The Double Crimp is twice the work with no
real improvement in the product. {wasted labor}

~ RHF

On Jun 13, 4:42*pm, dave wrote:
wrote:
Article I read in a motorbike magazine back in the 1970s.Somebody said
in that article to not solder the wires.He said that makes them brittle
and vibration can make them fail.I believe in soldering them, meself.
cuhulin

- Do not tin wires that you are going to crimp.

- Do not "double strike" when you crimp.

Crimping is a matter of 'style'
and the Double Strike {Crimping Twice}
often Crimps Your Style

say man don't be crimping my style dude ~ RHF

On 14/06/2010 5:42 AM, wrote:
Article I read in a motorbike magazine back in the 1970s.Somebody said
in that article to not solder the wires.He said that makes them brittle
and vibration can make them fail.I believe in soldering them, meself.
cuhulin

I was told that the secret, in the automotive world at least, to not
allow the solder to flow back along the wire from where it is needed,
ie. under the insulation. The wire should remain flexible immediately
behind the connector and any solder flow would prevent this flexibility.

I have always preferred soldered joints so I'm with you on this one!

Krypsis

On Jun 14, 12:28*pm, Krypsis wrote:

I have always preferred soldered joints so I'm with you on this one!

Krypsis


*******Judging by the amount of crap you post around here I would say
that you much prefer a different sort of joint.

Spliff away old man. Whooooooooooooooooooo


;-)